Where can I get a complete 1164 movement for the Omega Seamaster (gold/titanium)

[prokhmer]

Hi all,

Where can I get a completed 1164 movement for Omega Seamaster (gold/titanium)? I screwed up the movement when I was trying to clean the hairspring.

Thanks

[OddE]

Hi all,

Where can I get a completed 1164 movement for Omega Seamaster (gold/titanium)?


-I suspect the correct answer to be 'You can't, not unless you buy another 1164-equipped watch'.

It would not make sense for Omega to sell off their movements to end users; they'd be bound to show up in fakes immediately.

I know for certain that Breitling does _not_ return the exchanged movement to you after a service which includes replacing/upgrading the movement. It would make sense for Omega to adhere to the same policy.

What about doing what would have been a good idea in the first place - sending it in for a service?

(Oh, and I got within a fraction of an inch of doing the same thing a few years ago - opened my 7750-equipped Breitling Shark to have a look inside (The curse of being an engineer - gotta see how everything works...). When I was about to replace the caseback, I managed to drop it on edge, straight into the exposed movement. Fortunately, it hit the balance bridge and nothing delicate.

[eptaz]

Welcome to the forum! I'm sorry to hear about the trouble you ran into, but I'm afraid I'm unaware of anywhere selling complete Omega movements.

But, we have a few guys around here who are knowledgeable about this sort of thing. If you are able to post some details and pics, you might get some assistance.

eric

[Joe K.]

If you damaged the hairspring then you don't need a whole movement. Your best bet would be to get a complete balance and replace it. There is some skill involved and I would highly suggest you get a watchmaker to do this.

If I may ask, why were you trying to clean your hairspring and how did you try and do this?

Hi all,

Where can I get a completed 1164 movement for Omega Seamaster (gold/titanium)? I screwed up the movement when I was trying to clean the hairspring.

Thanks

[prokhmer]

The hairspring is sticking together and I have been trying to clean it with a tiny drop of isoproply alcohol because it kept gettting sticky. But this time I accidently put too much isoproply alcohol and it getting into the dial and the date dial and they are all messed up. If I can't find a completed movement where can I find a dial to replace them?
I will post some pictures when I get back home.


Thank you all for your help!

[Joe K.]

I don't think isopropanol would damage the movement but, as you mentioned, damaged the dial and date wheel.

I hope it does not come across as too harsh, but here is my take on it: First, cleaning a sticky hairspring is a delicate job and requires some knowledge and tools. The proper way of doing this requires removing the entire balance from the movement and using an appropriate solvent to clean the hairspring. Furthermore, trying now to repair the watch will also require knowledge, tools and skills that, based on your approach to cleaning the hairspring, you lack. The best advice I can give to you would be to take your watch to a qualified watchmaker and have him repair the watch for you.


The hairspring is sticking together and I have been trying to clean it with a tiny drop of isoproply alcohol because it kept gettting sticky. But this time I accidently put too much isoproply alcohol and it getting into the dial and the date dial and they are all messed up. If I can't find a completed movement where can I find a dial to replace them?
I will post pictures when I get home.

Thank you all for your help!

[M4tt]

Total agreement with Joe here - I'm a bit of a bottom feeder when it comes to watches and will buy any old tat. For me the most depressing thing to find is a classic watch which someone has tried to repair. If you are not going to take it to a professional then at least get on the bay and buy a couple of $10 old watches to experiment upon. Don't go near an Omega again until you can do what you want to do to the cheapy without breaking it.

I have a bits box full of broken bargain watches that I have killed learning how not to break watches. These days I hardly break them at all much. :-!

[prokhmer]

Here are the pictures. As you can see the isopropyl alcohol caused the wavy mark on the dial to bubble up and the words OMEGA SEAMASTER PROFESSIONAL 300m / 100ft are not straight anymore and the numbers on the date wheel were washed away by the isopropyl alcohol as well. Is it possible to replace the dial and the date wheel. If it’s not possible then I will send the watch to Omega repair center in New Jersey and see if they can replace the whole movement for a reasonable price.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/marainthuch/SGRiSuwF3UI/AAAAAAAAAi4/6LdRiESBqVI/DSC02862.JPG?imgmax=720

http://lh5.ggpht.com/marainthuch/SGRiyuwGEuI/AAAAAAAAAjA/LDzWxa7Xq04/DSC02863.JPG?imgmax=720


http://lh4.ggpht.com/marainthuch/SGRjNd4evMI/AAAAAAAAAjI/cwEUcvmdnRU/DSC02864.JPG?imgmax=720

http://lh4.ggpht.com/marainthuch/SGRj-zRg8kI/AAAAAAAAAjY/kuWKacOgUR0/DSC02866.JPG?imgmax=720

http://lh3.ggpht.com/marainthuch/SGRkY8fLY9I/AAAAAAAAAjg/yezy0m8VroY/DSC02867.JPG?imgmax=720

[john wilson]

Damn dude!! That's kinda funny. John Wilson

[M4tt]

The way it looks to me you are currently not looking at a job which will cost too much. While that dial is now only useful for framing as a warning to yourself, you should be able to source one easily enough either through ebay or at Ofrei possibly.

Then take take it all to a watch repairer, replacing hands, while superficially not too difficult, is so very easy to screw up. Without the correct tools you will scratch the face and the hands, but more importantly, even with the right tools, the amount of force needed to fit hands and the amount of force that will break the hair thin rods they are mounted upon are so close that you will first fail to fit the hands and the break their mountings - at which the cost of repair starts to get quite close to the cost of replacement.

[prokhmer]

OK, I found the dial for cailre 1164 at Ofrie http://www.ofrei.com/page1107.html but I am not sure if it Style 1, 2, 3 or 4. The picture is only showing Style #1.
I am still searching for the date wheel. Is it easy to remove the dial after removing the hands? Can you remove the hands by lifting them up?

Thank you.

[OddE]

Is it easy to remove the dial after removing the hands? Can you remove the hands by lifting them up?


-Please, please don't even consider doing that yourself.

Replacing the dial & date wheel is going to take a skilled watchmaker only a few minutes, and it is not likely to cost that much.

At least as long as you're not going to an Omega AD, bringing your own replacement parts shouldn't be an issue, either. (If I were an Omega AD, I'd be reluctant to fit parts which the customer brought to my store - better take some from my own inventory, or order from Omega. Non-ADs probably wouldn't care.)

Make a professional do it. Please.

[jimmoose]

-Please, please don't even consider doing that yourself.

Replacing the dial & date wheel is going to take a skilled watchmaker only a few minutes, and it is not likely to cost that much.

At least as long as you're not going to an Omega AD, bringing your own replacement parts shouldn't be an issue, either. (If I were an Omega AD, I'd be reluctant to fit parts which the customer brought to my store - better take some from my own inventory, or order from Omega. Non-ADs probably wouldn't care.)

Make a professional do it. Please.
None of my business................but..................
I'm with you Odd. Please take that thing to a watchmaker. Please, before
its destroyed. I'm a confirmed "do-it-yourself" kind of guy, but I know
my limitations. Working on fine wristwatches is one of them.
jim

[prokhmer]

-Please, please don't even consider doing that yourself.

Replacing the dial & date wheel is going to take a skilled watchmaker only a few minutes, and it is not likely to cost that much.

At least as long as you're not going to an Omega AD, bringing your own replacement parts shouldn't be an issue, either. (If I were an Omega AD, I'd be reluctant to fit parts which the customer brought to my store - better take some from my own inventory, or order from Omega. Non-ADs probably wouldn't care.)

Make a professional do it. Please.

Thank you for the advice! I am considering taking it to a skill watchmaker but I may have a hard time finding a good skill watchmaker in my area (Colorado). So you do not recommend me to send the watch to Omega Repair in New Jersey (SGUS, 55 Metro Way, New Jersey) for a repair?

Thanks!

[OddE]

(...) but I may have a hard time finding a good skill watchmaker in my area (Colorado). So you do not recommend me to send the watch to Omega Repair in New Jersey (SGUS, 55 Metro Way, New Jersey) for a repair?


-Living in Norway, I have no first-hand experience w/ the NJ facility. However, I seem to see more threads where people complain about them than I see about people happy with the treatment their watch got there.

If I may, I'd suggest that you ask around here in the forum - I am sure there are at least some members here from the Centennial state. A qualified guess is that at least some of them have found a decent watchmaker locally and would be happy to provide you with a tip.

Anyway - removing the hands is very, very difficult to do without the proper tools. Or, to be more precise - it is very, very difficult to do without damaging the watch further.

Further still - even a not very good watchmaker would run less of a risk of damaging the watch further than someone unskilled like you or me. Better still - if the chosen watchmaker does indeed break anything, he should be expected to set things right - either by himself or at least at his expense.

[watchboffin]

Thank you for the advice! I am considering taking it to a skill watchmaker but I may have a hard time finding a good skill watchmaker in my area (Colorado). So you do not recommend me to send the watch to Omega Repair in New Jersey (SGUS, 55 Metro Way, New Jersey) for a repair?

Thanks!

Have you tried?... http://www.righttime.com/
Tel (303)691-9658 or email them: Mail@RightTime.com They are based in Denver CO.
They have qualified/certified in house watchmakers, some from East Europe. I have used them for advise when doing my own repairs on my 1164 and they really know their stuff. I don't think you can do any better than these guys outside of an Omega AD. I'd think they'd be able to source your balance spring without much problem.

[M4tt]

I may be wrong but based on previous forum reports New Jersey has a slightly less than wonderful reputation.

You simply cannot remove hands without a specialist tool. With that you will be able to get them off with only light scratching to the dial, removing the dial itself is easy. the date wheel you will probably break at a cost of several hundred to repair. Replacing the face would be moderately easy but trying to put the hands back on you would do around a thousand pounds worth of damage.

Buy the parts and find a decent watchmaker, I bet Colorado is full of them
If you have ever been to Switzerland you will find that there is a similar attitude to life there.

As I said before, if you want to do your own repairs buy somthing nasty like this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALPHA-21J-AUTOMATIC-MULTIFUNCTION-SKELETON-MANS-WATCH_W0QQitemZ380037646429QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m380037646429&_trkparms=72%3A12|39%3A1|65%3A12&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14

to practice on - it's a lot less stressful when you break it - you will either become good enough to do the repair or realise you shouldn't.

[watchboffin]

From experience you can get all the hands off properly, including the subdial registers using just the Bergeon #1 Presto Hand Remover. It's also recommended to place a protective sheet on the dial as you pull to protect the dial face. You'll need also need a set of hand pushers from flat to 1.5 mm holed openings to place the hands back safely. Tools available on ebay or any good watch tool seller like Ofrei....

http://www.tztoolshop.com/FB_Catalog_Hand_Removers.html

[prokhmer]

Have you tried?... http://www.righttime.com/
Tel (303)691-9658 or email them: Mail@RightTime.com They are based in Denver CO.
They have qualified/certified in house watchmakers, some from East Europe. I have used them for advise when doing my own repairs on my 1164 and they really know their stuff. I don't think you can do any better than these guys outside of an Omega AD. I'd think they'd be able to source your balance spring without much problem.

Hey, thanks for providing contact information about RightTime. Definitely I will give them a call or visit their store.

[prokhmer]

I may be wrong but based on previous forum reports New Jersey has a slightly less than wonderful reputation.

You simply cannot remove hands without a specialist tool. With that you will be able to get them off with only light scratching to the dial, removing the dial itself is easy. the date wheel you will probably break at a cost of several hundred to repair. Replacing the face would be moderately easy but trying to put the hands back on you would do around a thousand pounds worth of damage.

Buy the parts and find a decent watchmaker, I bet Colorado is full of them
If you have ever been to Switzerland you will find that there is a similar attitude to life there.

As I said before, if you want to do your own repairs buy somthing nasty like this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALPHA-21J-AUTOMATIC-MULTIFUNCTION-SKELETON-MANS-WATCH_W0QQitemZ380037646429QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m380037646429&_trkparms=72%3A12|39%3A1|65%3A12&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALPHA-21J-AUTOMATIC-MULTIFUNCTION-SKELETON-MANS-WATCH_W0QQitemZ380037646429QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m380037646429&_trkparms=72%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14)

to practice on - it's a lot less stressful when you break it - you will either become good enough to do the repair or realise you shouldn't.

Based on the advices that I am getting so far it’s best to let a skill watchmaker do it.
Thanks for your advice.

[prokhmer]

From experience you can get all the hands off properly, including the subdial registers using just the Bergeon #1 Presto Hand Remover. It's also recommended to place a protective sheet on the dial as you pull to protect the dial face. You'll need also need a set of hand pushers from flat to 1.5 mm holed openings to place the hands back safely. Tools available on ebay or any good watch tool seller like Ofrei....

http://www.tztoolshop.com/FB_Catalog_Hand_Removers.html

I am going to let a skill watchmaker do it for me. I don't want to invest on tools because I don't collect or plan to dismantle expensive watch.
I appreciated for helping me. Thanks.

[watchboffin]

Hey, thanks for providing contact information about RightTime. Definitely I will give them a call or visit their store.

No problem. They have a master watchmaker/teacher who is second only to the infamous Henry Freid, so you can rest assured if you do choose them!

[prokhmer]

No problem. They have a master watchmaker/teacher who is second only to the infamous Henry Freid, so you can rest assured if you do choose them!

Do you know how much would it costs if the movement need a complete over haul?

[watchboffin]

Do you know how much would it costs if the movement need a complete over haul?

I did my seamaster chrono over haul myself so I don't personally know what a shop charges these days. I had a mechanical Cartier done in 1996 thru an AD for under $200 but that was 12 years ago and a much simpler movement. However, a member from NYC on one of my other chat trails says he just had his Seamaster Chrono Ti, same as mine, overhauled for $600. That probably sounds on the high side being NYC. This assumes the watch just needs a strip, clean, re-assemble, oiling & regulation and no replacement parts except for maybe the odd new screw. In your case you would need to replace the dial & possibly the hairspring balance assembly. But I don't know if your hairsping just needs a dipping to dissolve the solvent. If you just dropped alcohol on it then it's probably fine. But if it was poked with some 3rd party implement then the hairspring could be damaged. I know an Omega escape wheel costs $15 so I'm guessing a compete balance would be an additional $50 or so worse case.
Here's the link where a member mentions his overhaul cost. Just look for the member named "donmontalvo" towards the end of my chat trail...
http://forums.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?p=1099626#poststop
What is the age of your watch & has it ever been fully serviced from your knowledge?
If the quote is too steep I could possibly look at it for you. I live in Denver.

[prokhmer]

I did my seamaster chrono over haul myself so I don't personally know what a shop charges these days. I had a mechanical Cartier done in 1996 thru an AD for under $200 but that was 12 years ago and a much simpler movement. However, a member from NYC on one of my other chat trails says he just had his Seamaster Chrono Ti, same as mine, overhauled for $600. That probably sounds on the high side being NYC. This assumes the watch just needs a strip, clean, re-assemble, oiling & regulation and no replacement parts except for maybe the odd new screw. In your case you would need to replace the dial & possibly the hairspring balance assembly. But I don't know if your hairsping just needs a dipping to dissolve the solvent. If you just dropped alcohol on it then it's probably fine. But if it was poked with some 3rd party implement then the hairspring could be damaged. I know an Omega escape wheel costs $15 so I'm guessing a compete balance would be an additional $50 or so worse case.
Here's the link where a member mentions his overhaul cost. Just look for the member named "donmontalvo" towards the end of my chat trail...
http://forums.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?p=1099626#poststop
What is the age of your watch & has it ever been fully serviced from your knowledge?
If the quote is too steep I could possibly look at it for you. I live in Denver.
I bought this watch in 1996 and it has never been fully service before.
When the watch started to gain time I sent to Omega AD in NJ and they quote me for around $600 for basic oiling and cleaning and I thought it is expensive so I decided not to have them do anything and asked them to return the watch back. When I got the watch back I noticed they had opened the back case because I saw the red paint was broken and the back case can be easily removed by hand. At this point I decided opened the back case to look inside. After an exhausting search on the internet I found out that the hairspring on my watch is sticking ( I confirmed it by looking under high power microscope at work.). I tried to clean the hairspring with a very tiny drops of isoproply alcohol a few times and it worked for a few weeks but the hairspring started to get sticking again.
It was going on like this for a while so this time I decided to use a lot more of isoproply alcohol and the excessive alcohol was getting into the dial and that was how I ended up this this mess. By the way, now that the hairspring just got a good shower it is beating normally again. It appears the hairspring balance assembly is OK but the date wheel and dial are not OK. The date wheel and dial are damaged by the alcohol.

I work and live in Longmont and the only time I can go to Denver is on the weekend. I sent email (along with pictures that I posted here) to Righttime.com on Friday night and I am still waiting for a reply.

You said that you can take a look and see if you can fix the watch for me for a reasonable price? If you can do that for me I would very appreciated! Can I send my watch to you? I know that I shouldn't be doing this but it seems that you are very trusted and honest person on this forum. Please let me know if you are capable and willing to fix this watch for me.

Thanks!

[watchboffin]

I bought this watch in 1996 and it has never been fully service before.
When the watch started to gain time I sent to Omega AD in NJ and they quote me for around $600 for basic oiling and cleaning and I thought it is expensive so I decided not to have them do anything and asked them to return the watch back. When I got the watch back I noticed they had opened the back case because I saw the red paint was broken and the back case can be easily removed by hand. At this point I decided opened the back case to look inside. After an exhausting search on the internet I found out that the hairspring on my watch is sticking ( I confirmed it by looking under high power microscope at work.). I tried to clean the hairspring with a very tiny drops of isoproply alcohol a few times and it worked for a few weeks but the hairspring started to get sticking again.
It was going on like this for a while so this time I decided to use a lot more of isoproply alcohol and the excessive alcohol was getting into the dial and that was how I ended up this this mess. By the way, now that the hairspring just got a good shower it is beating normally again. It appears the hairspring balance assembly is OK but the date wheel and dial are not OK. The date wheel and dial are damaged by the alcohol.

I work and live in Longmont and the only time I can go to Denver is on the weekend. I sent email (along with pictures that I posted here) to Righttime.com on Friday night and I am still waiting for a reply.

You said that you can take a look and see if you can fix the watch for me for a reasonable price? If you can do that for me I would very appreciated! Can I send my watch to you? I know that I shouldn't be doing this but it seems that you are very trusted and honest person on this forum. Please let me know if you are capable and willing to fix this watch for me.

Thanks!

If you just want the dial and the calendar wheel replaced then this is a relatively simply job & I would have no problem doing this. I would just remove the hands with the right tool, then slide away the two dial holding c clamps. The dial then comes off easily exposing the calendar section. The calendar wheel is literally lifted straight out from here & replaced with the new calendar wheel. I then just do the reverse of the removal process & with the dial in place push all the hands back on. I was very meticulous in getting the calendar wheel date change to synch exacly at midnight for the hour and minute hand when I push these back. I also make sure the minute hand exactly overlaps the hour hand at midnight. Sloppy jewelers can end up with the hour hand slightly lagging or slightly leading ahead of the 12 o'clock position as the minute hand strikes midnight. The chronograph second & hour hands also needs meticulous pushing so it's dead on their 12 reset positions.

If you just want this done to get it back to cosmetic perfection & you can supply the new replacement dial & calendar wheel parts then it would be a fraction of the $600 cost of an overhaul & I could do this easily with a pretty quick turnaround time.

If you wanted a full overhaul then this would mean disassembling the rest of the calendar plate first which is relatively the easiest section. Next is the automatic winding bridge to get to the chronograph plate on the opposite side (the side you see when you take the back off). After disassembling the chronograph section you get to the delicate train section which is the heart of the watch. As you can probably guess this is alot more work. Assembling the main train plate & chronograph plate are the most time intensive & this is where most of the labour costs are incurred. That's along with cleaning all these individual parts before reassembly. Although I have full confidence in performing a full overhaul, I have too be honest it's not worth my time to do it with a great saving I would want to offer you. I did mine myself as a labor of love and it took several patient weekends as I only did one section at a time each weekend (I work fulltime Mon-Fri!).

So I can offer to change the dial and calendar wheel if that's all you need at low cost. However, since it's 12 years old & if you have been wearing it & running it regularly for most of that time then it almost definitely needs a full over haul & you will probably be better off getting a jeweler like Right time to do it.

Let me know if you're still interested. I'll understand if you decide not to pursue...no problem |>

[prokhmer]

If you just want the dial and the calendar wheel replaced then this is a relatively simply job & I would have no problem doing this. I would just remove the hands with the right tool, then slide away the two dial holding c clamps. The dial then comes off easily exposing the calendar section. The calendar wheel is literally lifted straight out from here & replaced with the new calendar wheel. I then just do the reverse of the removal process & with the dial in place push all the hands back on. I was very meticulous in getting the calendar wheel date change to synch exacly at midnight for the hour and minute hand when I push these back. I also make sure the minute hand exactly overlaps the hour hand at midnight. Sloppy jewelers can end up with the hour hand slightly lagging or slightly leading ahead of the 12 o'clock position as the minute hand strikes midnight. The chronograph second & hour hands also needs meticulous pushing so it's dead on their 12 reset positions.


If you just want this done to get it back to cosmetic perfection & you can supply the new replacement dial & calendar wheel parts then it would be a fraction of the $600 cost of an overhaul & I could do this easily with a pretty quick turnaround time.

If you wanted a full overhaul then this would mean disassembling the rest of the calendar plate first which is relatively the easiest section. Next is the automatic winding bridge to get to the chronograph plate on the opposite side (the side you see when you take the back off). After disassembling the chronograph section you get to the delicate train section which is the heart of the watch. As you can probably guess this is alot more work. Assembling the main train plate & chronograph plate are the most time intensive & this is where most of the labour costs are incurred. That's along with cleaning all these individual parts before reassembly. Although I have full confidence in performing a full overhaul, I have too be honest it's not worth my time to do it with a great saving I would want to offer you. I did mine myself as a labor of love and it took several patient weekends as I only did one section at a time each weekend (I work fulltime Mon-Fri!).

So I can offer to change the dial and calendar wheel if that's all you need at low cost. However, since it's 12 years old & if you have been wearing it & running it regularly for most of that time then it almost definitely needs a full over haul & you will probably be better off getting a jeweler like Right time to do it.

Let me know if you're still interested. I'll understand if you decide not to pursue...no problem |>

Are you saying that you can performance an overhaul for around $600 with confidence? Is that include Omega genuine parts or do I have to supply them? If that price include labor and parts then I want to have it done by you but if it's not worth your time then I can understand.
However, if you can do just the dial and the calendar wheel replacement that is great! I will do the overhaul with the jeweler (RightTime) next time. I will supply you the parts.
Can you tell me which one of these dials is for my watch?
http://www.ofrei.com/page1107.html

I can't find any omega date wheel for my watch at ofrei.com or maybe I don't know where to look for it. Can you tell me who is selling this?

Thanks

[watchboffin]

Are you saying that you can performance an overhaul for around $600 with confidence? Is that include Omega genuine parts or do I have to supply them? If that price include labor and parts then I want to have it done by you but if it's not worth your time then I can understand.
However, if you can do just the dial and the calendar wheel replacement that is great! I will do the overhaul with the jeweler (RightTime) next time. I will supply you the parts.
Can you tell me which one of these dials is for my watch?
http://www.ofrei.com/page1107.html

I can't find any omega date wheel for my watch at ofrei.com or maybe I don't know where to look for it. Can you tell me who is selling this?

Thanks

As I mentioned previously, I can offer to do the Dial & Calendar only.
I'm guessing yours is style 2. Is your model 2396.80.00 in rose gold and titanium finish case & bracelet?
You should be able to source a calendar wheel from a standard 7750 parts source as I believe this is the same part Omega uses (at probably a lower price too!). I'll see if I can find a source for the wheel.

I'm curious about the hairspring. When you say it was 'sticking', what exactly does this mean & what did you see under the microscope regards the hairspring and it's action? Do you mean it would just stop intermitantly? Why or how did you find out about cleaning the hairspring in alcohol? I've never heard of this. I've have heard of the hairspring getting contaminated with oil so it drags against itself but this would mean that someone attempted to oil the balance & things went wrong. In this case the whole hairspring needs to be dipped in solvent to remove all the oil and then air dried.

[prokhmer]

As I mentioned previously, I can offer to do the Dial & Calendar only.
I'm guessing yours is style 2. Is your model 2396.80.00 in rose gold and titanium finish case & bracelet?
You should be able to source a calendar wheel from a standard 7750 parts source as I believe this is the same part Omega uses (at probably a lower price too!). I'll see if I can find a source for the wheel.

I'm curious about the hairspring. When you say it was 'sticking', what exactly does this mean & what did you see under the microscope regards the hairspring and it's action? Do you mean it would just stop intermitantly? Why or how did you find out about cleaning the hairspring in alcohol? I've never heard of this. I've have heard of the hairspring getting contaminated with oil so it drags against itself but this would mean that someone attempted to oil the balance & things went wrong. In this case the whole hairspring needs to be dipped in solvent to remove all the oil and then air dried.

That is OK if you can do the dial and calendar replacement.
Mine is 2296.80.00, case number 178.0504, Titanium/rose gold case and bracelets. I appreciated for looking up the date wheel.

The hairspring is sticking together once in a while. Not the whole hairspring is sticking together and only a portion of it get sticky. I noticed very tiny amount of oil is on the hairspring. It think you are right. The hairspring is contaminated with oil.

[watchboffin]

That is OK if you can do the dial and calendar replacement.
Mine is 2296.80.00, case number 178.0504, Titanium/rose gold case and bracelets. I appreciated for looking up the date wheel.

The hairspring is sticking together once in a while. Not the whole hairspring is sticking together and only a portion of it get sticky. I noticed very tiny amount of oil is on the hairspring. It think you are right. The hairspring is contaminated with oil.

I can't work out if style 2 is correct then. Style 2 states for gold/ti but the model numbers don't match yours. Maybe style 2 if for a later more recent gold/ti without the luminious points at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions. Style 1 doesn't look quite right. Style 3 & 4 are for the blue face seamasters. Yours is black isn't it? I can't see the pics you inserted earlier, might be my firewall here stopping them displaying.

Regards the hairsping, if that's the case, then even if it's running now, it's unlikely to hold a stable accurate rate. It really needs removing and dipping in solvent.
If you are going to get this over hauled in the short term then you might as well get the dial and wheel done at the same time to save the labor of doing it twice. That's just my recommendation. But if you still need just the dial & wheel I'd be happy to help.

I'll keep you posted if i can find a wheel.

[Joe K.]

Hi, Just a quick note about his statement: I am not sure you can simply "pop out" the date wheel and insert another one, without potentially damaging it. The 1164 is based on the val. 7750 movement. If you look at the date indicator wheel of the 7750 you will notice that there is a guard plate (also called the date indicator maintaining plate). It is designed to prevent the indicator wheel from simply popping in or out.

http://www.timezone.com/img/articles/horologium631674031715938957/BottomPlateWithCalendarDscn0744.jpg






The calendar wheel is literally lifted straight out from here & replaced with the new calendar wheel.

[watchboffin]

I stand corrected. Actually two guard plates need to come off. The smaller one has 1 screw & the larger plate 2 screws. I also forgot to mention that you need to use moebius D5 oil, per ETA service directions, on a contact point for the calendar wheel against the calendar platform. Also oil the date corrector & date jumpers while in there.

[prokhmer]

Maybe that's what I should do. Take my watch to RightTime and have them do the whole thing. Thank you for taking your time to help me out. I appreciated for your help.

Thank you

[watchboffin]

Maybe that's what I should do. Take my watch to RightTime and have them do the whole thing. Thank you for taking your time to help me out. I appreciated for your help.

Thank you

No Problem. I'm waiting on a source for the calendar wheel & I'll keep you posted.

Let us all know how you get on with Right Time either way. They're top notch by all accounts. Good Luck :-!

[watchboffin]

Maybe that's what I should do. Take my watch to RightTime and have them do the whole thing. Thank you for taking your time to help me out. I appreciated for your help.

Thank you

I managed to find a reliable source for the 7750 calendar wheel. He's a watch specialist ebay store seller who always comes up trumps for one off 7750 parts when I used him several times before. He's offering to sell a perfect 7750 calendar wheel for $9.50 including free shipping within USA, which sounds unbeatable.

Let me know if you're still interested plus a private email & I'll forward you the seller's details & how to order it, as he's not offering it on any public auction. Hope this helps you out.