Help identify a Hamilton Watch

[LovingDiamonds]

Hello everybody!

I was wondering if you could help please? I recently bought a lovely ladies Hamilton diamond watch. I adore it and would love to know a little more about it!

I have contacted Hamilton who have told me they have no record of the watch BUT that some records were lost when Swatch took over. They suggested that my watch was from the Hamilton Diamond collection from the 1960s but couldn't be sure.

Looking at the watch, it just doesn't seem to be of that era. However, they did give me two people to contact (watch specialists) one of whom has been kind enough to reply. He has told me that the movement is from 1935 but as the case isn't stamped Hamilton he doesn't know any more. It could well be that this is one of the ranges that Hamilton outsourced OR it could just be a Hamilton movement in a random setting! Either way, I'd be interested in your thoughts.

The movement has the following letters on it (?)995A and F79085. The case is platinum with diamonds. The inside of the case has the letters LV with a circle around it, 900 Plat and 100 ird and 107 clearly stamped and legible. Other letters and numbers have been scratched into the case and are only just readable, they are: 50DAJR4050, B8823R, A26544, A296430 and F5759543 (some of these numbers are incredibly difficult to read so may not be accurate).

Here are some photos. If you can help at all I'd be incredibly grateful. Thanks in advance.

[bjohnson]

995A is likely the name of the calibre. The F79085 is likely the serial number

1935 sounds about right for this style of watch

Platinum is high end

I think I've seen numerous Hamilton's in gold cases that were made by LV so I think this case is likely original.


Sorry for being so imprecise, but I'm heading out the door

[Ray MacDonald]

This is a real American Hamilton and the records are available.
From the Hamilton serial number database:
It's a 17 jewel 21/0S Grade 995A Hamilton made between 1931 and 1939. Around 1934-1935 would seem logical. There were close to 300,000 of these very fine ladies movements made. The monetary value of the watch is going to be in the diamonds and platinum case, but it's a great watch to get restored if you can. It should be serviced if you plan to wear it.
The cryptic numbers are watchmaker markings which don't mean much (if anything) to us today.

[LovingDiamonds]

Thank you so much to you both for your replies. I really do appreciate it.

Do you happen to know if this watch has a name or were Hamilton watches of that age identified by numbers?

I'd also be incredibly grateful if you could tell me if it's possible to have the watch face restored? Although the patina adds to its charm I can't help thinking that cleaned it would look sensational.

By the way, the watch keeps almost perfect time (losing maybe 1 minute in a 24 hour period) and I will get it serviced as you suggest.

[Eeeb]

...
Do you happen to know if this watch has a name or were Hamilton watches of that age identified by numbers?

I'd also be incredibly grateful if you could tell me if it's possible to have the watch face restored? Although the patina adds to its charm I can't help thinking that cleaned it would look sensational. ....

The names of watches are ephemeral products of marketing. If they are put onto the dial, they survive. Otherwise you may be able to get some clues from old advertisements or catalogs.

The collectability of the watch declines appreciably if the dial is not original. Dials are often built of very small appliques and many are coated with coatings that have become fragile for various reasons. It is difficult to do much about this without drastic surgery.

But sometimes it is wise to remove contaminants if that can be done with little risk of damage.

That said, it's your watch.

However, I will say yours is a common feeling we all have when we start to get interested in watches. You may find later that patina grows on you. And once a dial is repainted, it can never be undone.

I have several really wonderful Swiss winders that are redials. I can not bring my self to wear them. I feel sorry for them.

ed note: this is post 4123 for me... nice number :-)

[Ray MacDonald]

Some Hamilton models have names but this tends to be more of a 1940s and 1950s phenomenon. Certain books like Shugart show pics of the models with their names, but it's a slog to look through them all.
A watch can run very well and keep accurate time while it is destroying itself through no lubrication. If you don't know when it was serviced last, take it to a good watchmaker. Hamiltons of that age are difficult to get parts for, so you want to keep what you have in good shape.
We never recommend refinishing a dial here unless it is totally illegible. Refinishing a dial makes it less collectible, and besides a vintage watch should look its age in my view.

[gatorcpa]

Do you happen to know if this watch has a name or were Hamilton watches of that age identified by numbers?

If the case doesn't say "Hamilton", it wasn't made for them. Watch movements and cases were made to standard specifications back then and could be easily interchanged with other American case makers.

Your watch movement was likely taken from a Hamilton gold-filled case and fitted to a platinum case by a jeweler (likely a Hamilton dealer). This was a pretty common practice as Hamilton made very few platinum cases in the 1930's due to lack of demand from a poor economy (sounds familiar? ;-)).

Later on, when times were better, some old-stock movements were recycled into precious metal and diamond cases, then sold as new. I've seen contemporary literature from Hamilton that warned consumers about this.

Still, there nothing wrong with a nice platinum watch. wear it in good health!

gatorcpa

[LovingDiamonds]

Thank you all again. I will take your advice and (a) get the watch serviced by an experienced watchmaker - great advice (b) I will live with the patina and see if I can get on with it! I take your point about it reflecting the watch's age and that makes sense but I'm not sure if asthetically I can ignore the yellowing. I will try and won't jump the gun however!!!

Gatorcpa - your advice appears to suggest that the watch is not a genuine Hamilton because it doesn't have Hamilton stamped on the case? However, I was greatly relieved to see from Ray MacDonald's post that he has found the records to say it is. I wonder therefore whether some cases were simply not stamped Hamilton? Hamilton themselves did appear to believe it was genuine.

At the end of the day I LOVE this watch. If somebody had said it was plastic and glass I'd have still been happy!!! Well, perhaps that's a bit of an overstatement but you know what I mean! :-!

[Ray MacDonald]

Many of the earlier Hamilton watches were not in cases stamped Hamilton. The watch movement maker and the watch case maker were very often separate and distinct companies. In the early days of the 20th century the watch movement was often cased at the jeweler to suit the customer.
You don't have any worries about authenticity. These types of watches are rarely faked anyway.

[LovingDiamonds]

Many of the earlier Hamilton watches were not in cases stamped Hamilton. The watch movement maker and the watch case maker were very often separate and distinct companies. In the early days of the 20th century the watch movement was often cased at the jeweler to suit the customer.
You don't have any worries about authenticity. These types of watches are rarely faked anyway.

Thanks Ray - you've made my day! To me the fun is wearing a vintage watch that looks as good today as the lady who was lucky to wear it in the 1930s!

[gatorcpa]

Gatorcpa - your advice appears to suggest that the watch is not a genuine Hamilton because it doesn't have Hamilton stamped on the case? However, I was greatly relieved to see from Ray MacDonald's post that he has found the records to say it is. I wonder therefore whether some cases were simply not stamped Hamilton? Hamilton themselves did appear to believe it was genuine.

What I meant to say is that the movement and dial were clearly made by Hamilton. Hamilton cases were generally marked with both the maker's name (Wadsworth, Fahy's, etc.) and Hamilton. Ray is correct in that sometimes watches were custom cased by jewelers. I believe that is what happened with your watch.

IMO, your case was not made specifically for a Hamilton. However, as a platinum cased Hamilton movement, it is still a very desireable watch.:-!

Sorry for any confusion,
gatorcpa

[jewelerman]

Thanks guys for the help with Lovingdiamonds Deco watch....I knew you would come running to help a new forum member.We are on a jewelry web site xxxxxxxxxxxx and anyone is welcome there with their questions about jewelry or gemstones.Thanks again.JM