--- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA --- - Page 16
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  1. #151
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    That's a lot to read!

  2. #152
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying and Modifying VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Thanks! Waiting for my Soviet era Amphibian to arrive, so this info will be useful!

  3. #153
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by mariomart View Post
    I can't remember where I originally found this photo, but I've found it quite useful to determine which of the new crown/stems go with which case.

    Attachment 11350602
    Thanks!

    I wonder if the D model would fit my 320 case?
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  4. #154
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Thanks a lot Matt!! Astounding amounts of detail and useful info, the Guide is great!!
    I happened to find this forum when I had already ordered my first Komandiskie, but after reading it I'm already saving for an Amphibian!!
    Do you plan on doing something similar with the Komandiskie??
    Matt_Bored_O likes this.

  5. #155
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Does anyone know if the Meranom stainless steel crowns will fit the new 670?


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  6. #156
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Comrades! With your help I’ve just managed to completely disassemble my first watch movement ; a used Vostok calibre 2409 that I picked up on eBay for about $1.50 (auction). I used my smartphone with a macro lens to document the steps as I went; pictures here if you want to see them. As far as I can tell the only movement parts that I found missing were one bridge screw and a gear/wheel in the keyless works.

    My main source was the videos of WUS member ratfacedgit, but also many other resources. List of links below (some links are from the first post in this thread!)

    As a small contribution and my way to say thank you to all of you watch comrades I took the opportunity to document which screwdrivers I used. Here's the list:

    0.80mm (Yellow) A*F Swiss
    1.00mm (Black) A*F Swiss
    1.20mm (Red) A*F Swiss
    1.40mm (Grey) A*F Swiss.
    1.60mm (Violet) A*F Swiss.


    It should be said that sometimes I had to use a smaller screwdriver than the screw itself because the blade was too thick for the screw. Anyway, I really don’t see that any other sizes than the ones I’ve listed should be required for a 2409 movement and perhaps the 1.60mm (Violet) can be skipped (I've changed my mind about this, please see the EDIT below).

    EDIT May 24th, 2017:
    Testing weather my disassembled and then reassembled main spring barrel would actually work, I installed it in another and fully working 2409 movement (please also see the next EDIT below). In the process I noticed that the 1.60mm (Violet) screwdriver suddenly fitted the ratchet wheel and crown wheel screw slots perfectly. I'm not 100 % sure but it would seem to me that the width of the slot may vary from one movement to another. Anyhow, I would now definitely say that the 1.60mm (Violet) screwdriver has a role to play in working with a 2409 movement (probably all Vostok 24xx movements).

    The trickiest part (as I still lack the know-how) and one that still needs to be resolved is how to remove the arbor from the main spring. The ratfacedgit shows how it’s done on an ETA movement (link “ETA 3” below), and I would guess the procedure is the same for a Vostok 24xx arbor but I haven’t been able to get this confirmed. Any help would be very much appreciated!

    I can’t claim that I fully understand how the main spring works inside the barrel. However I have been able to put the main spring back into the barrel with my bare hands and the resistance wasn’t that great (I simply did this to practice it, it still needs to be cleaned and greased), but what I wonder is if I have to position the end of the main spring at a certain spot inside the barrel where it’s supposed to hook up (I guess?), or if it will simply hook itself up in the right spot inside the barrel when I start winding it? I guess I could simply test this, but if anyone of you can confirm or explain I’d really appreciate it. Please see the below picture!

    EDIT May 24th, 2017:
    To test weather my disassembled and then reassembled main spring barrel would actually work, I installed it in one of my other fully working 2409 movements. I'm happy to say that it worked perfectly. So, my conclusion is that it isn't necessary or required to to position the main spring end at a specific spot inside the barrel. It seems to hook up where it's supposed to by design. The reason I was pondering this is that I noticed that the inside of the barrel rim isn't perfectly circled. About 1/5 of the rim's
    circumference is recessed (please see the next picture). Now, it could be that I was just lucky (I usually never am) getting the end of the main spring into this recess, so anyone with more knowledge about this please enlighten us!
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    As I don’t yet own a cannon pinion remover I pulled out the cannon pinion using a tweezers. I placed the tweezers horizontally on the movement (with a piece of plastic underneath), pinched the cannon pinion and pressed the tweezers downwards to get leverage. It came off without any excessive force. As far as I remember this technique is demonstrated in the 2414a disassembly video that I link to below. I certainly feel this method is unorthodox and I will eventually get a cannon pinion remover. Anyway, as this was a movement I basically bought just to practice disassembly (and get some spare parts in the process) I didn’t worry too much.

    One thing I dreaded was to remove the balance shock assembly jewels, but this proved a lot easier than I had imagined. Inspired by Dave Murphy’s long disassembly post (link below) and the ratfacedgit’s video on the topic (link below) I managed to make my own tool (pictures below) from a 2 mm peg wood stick. I first sandpapered one of the ends to make it as even as I could. I then used a 1 mm new and sharp drill to drill a hole by hand in the sandpapered end. Finally I gradually sandpapered down the sides around the drilled hole so that it would press on the three flanges of the shock assembly spring. To my surprise the shock assembly springs came off very easily on my first attempt. The tricky bit was picking them up, so I resolved to a toothpick with a bit of rub-off cleaning compound attached to it. That made it easy, and yes those springs are tiny indeed!
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    Links List:
    Boctok, Vostok 2409 movement removal
    Boctok, Vostok 2409 disassembly
    Vostok Komandirskie Cal 2414a complete disassembly and service
    Repairing a Vostok 24XX Mainspring a simple guide
    The watch barrel
    Replacing Watch Mainspring
    ETA 3 (Main spring disassembly)
    Vostok Caliber 2414 Service Notes (Very long, many pics.)
    Last edited by 24 Hours; May 24th, 2017 at 10:01. Reason: Gained som more knowledge I wanted to share
    saturnine, Tarquin and Sansoni7 like this.
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  7. #157
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by 24 Hours View Post
    Comrades! With your help I’ve just managed to completely disassemble my first watch movement
    Was this just for your education or are you working on fixing something? Either way, Bravo! Your data is a very worthwhile addition to the collective WUS intelligence of Vostok/Boctok.
    24 Hours likes this.
    May the power of the cosmos be with you.

  8. #158
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    Was this just for your education or are you working on fixing something? Either way, Bravo! Your data is a very worthwhile addition to the collective WUS intelligence of Vostok/Boctok.
    Thank you very much saturnine!

    The reasons I'm doing this are many, but the most important reason is that for many, many years - perhaps even since childhood - I've had a dream to be able to take a watch apart, clean and oil it, put it back together, and hear it tick again. Long term it would also be great to be able to make some minor repairs but as of now that's not my main priority. My next challenge will be the cleaning. Then of course the oiling and reassembly which will probably be the biggest challenge. I'll report my experiences on this thread.

    The other reasons I'm doing this is that - if I'm able to develop the sufficient skills - I'll also be able to collect used inexpensive Russian watches on eBay that needs service and/or minor repairs to run, I'll be able to make a necessary modification to a 2415 movement to be able to install the hands from a 2415 SE movement that I have and that isn't working properly, I'll hopefully be able to get my grandfathers old wrist watch from the 50-ties to tick again, and so on.

    Come to think of it, this watch tinkering also has a profound therapeutic effect on me (that is as long as I don't loose or destroy any parts, which of course will be more or less inevitable)!
    saturnine likes this.
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  9. #159
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    For anyone interested I've just made a couple of edits to my "2409 disassembly post". Please see under: EDIT May 24th, 2017:
    Last edited by 24 Hours; May 24th, 2017 at 10:06. Reason: Used the wrong word...
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  10. #160
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Is it absolutely necessary to have a watch press to replace a crystal? I scratched the hell out of my Komandirskie but I have another on the way for spare parts. I tried taking it apart just for practice and was able to snap it out and in just fine with my thumb


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