--- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA --- - Page 19
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  1. #181
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    I've just dismantled and cleaned my third Vostok 2409, and as I was looking at the parts drying I thought it looked pretty beautiful and took a picture of it. Missing in the picture is the main spring, balance complete, pallet fork, and stem/crown (I forgot) but other than that it is complete. So I thought someone else might enjoy to see it too!

    This movement came from a lot of four 2409s that I bought on eBay for about $10. This movement wasn't too dirty and looked in great shape. It seemed that it had never been serviced as all screws looked untouched. However, the main spring was broken (now replaced with a main spring from one of the other movements in the lot). My guess is that the main spring broke early on and that someone only used it for a short period of time.

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    Last edited by 24 Hours; August 5th, 2017 at 18:57.
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  2. #182
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Comrades, a while back when I was going to do my very first oiling of jewel holes and pallet stones (Vostok 2409), I ran into serious problems; I just couldn't see what I was doing and the result of it. So the thought of getting myself an inexpensive/affordable stereo microscope rose to mind. After having spent a full day or so researching the topic of stereo microscopes I started the thread "Would this stereo microscope help me do the job?" Well, now I have the scope and it has been very helpful. So if anyone of you is in the same process as I was - considering to buy a stereo microscope - my initial impressions are noted here.
    Last edited by 24 Hours; August 7th, 2017 at 14:57.
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  3. #183
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Nine months ago or so while taking my first steps trying to learn a bit about watchmaking, Iím pretty sure I accidentally ruined my Amphibian SE 710555S and wasnít able to fix it. As I was so fond to this watch (itís still one of my definitive favorites) I decided to replace the movement with a brand new 2415 movement. The full story here.

    It was only after this that I learned that the hands of the 2415 SE movement wouldnít fit the regular 2415 movement. Dmitry at Meranom.com then told me that what I had to do was to "replace the minute and second pins". At that time it was simply beyond my level of watchmaking knowledge, abilities, and tools to do so, so I decided to get some really beautiful hands from IgorIV (called cathedral hands, as I later learned from saturnine) and mount them on the normal 2415 movement.

    Now, nine months later Iím happy to say I have gained the knowledge, skills, and tools to make the replacement. So last night I emailed Dmitry and asked him if these were the parts he was referring to (please see the images), and he very quickly confirmed it was. Фантастика!
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    Seconds hand pinion (seconds pin)

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    Cannon pinion (minute pin)

    Now, Dmitry refers to these parts as the "minute pin" and the "second pin". Generally, I believe these parts are called "cannon pinion" (minute pin) and "seconds hand pinion" (seconds pin), but please correct me if Iím wrong!

    I didnít think I would have to ask Dmitry to confirm this because I had gotten myself a digital precision vernier caliper with a repeatability of 0.01 millimeters with the plan of simply comparing the measurements of these parts. However, as the differences in diameters were minimal (to say the least) I still decided to get in touch with Dmitry to make absolutely sure.

    I still havenít made the replacement but plan to do so soon. Once finished Iíll let you know how it worked out and hopefully, Iíll have the time to make a guide about how to do it.

    I guess the following info isnít super useful and may not be 100 % precise, but for what itís worth here are my measuring results.

    Seconds hand pinion diameter of the top section (right were the second's hand is fitted):
    2415: 0.17
    millimetres.
    2415SE: 0.17
    millimetres.
    No difference!

    Seconds hand pinion height:
    2415: 5.28 millimeters.
    2415SE: 5.69 millimeters.

    Cannon pinion diameter of the top section (right where the minute hand is fitted):
    2415: 0.85
    millimetres.
    2415SE: 0.87 millimetres.

    Cannon pinion height:
    2415: 2.62
    millimetres.
    2415SE: 2.57 millimetres.
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  4. #184
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Hi there to all!

    I'm totally new to this forum and arrived here due to my Amphibia which is in the mail from Russia.
    Reading through these pages I'm interested in regulating the movement of this watch. However, I can't find the article about maintenance and How To.
    I'm sure it's due to my noob skills on this forum, so a little help as to where to find info on regulating the movement would be highly appreciated!

    Kind regards!

  5. #185
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    .
    How To: Regulate Vostok 24xx


    Name:  Regulation 24xx.jpg
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    Black: Balance Assembly
    Red
    : Regulating Arm
    Green: Regulatiion / Speed Indicator
    Blue: Direction to move Regulating Arm to increase or decrease speed



    Tools:

    - magnifier : hands free such as visor, loupe etc.
    - thin, pointed stick or narrow tweezers: plastic or non-magnetic metal or de-magnetised metal

    optional: time grapher machine or PC application with good microphone
    --- makes the task faster and easier but it is not necessary


    How To:


    - push the end of the Regulating Arm with the stick / tweezers or similar tool
    --- push it Left or Right to increase or decrease speed
    - move the Arm only a very, very small amount
    --- the Hairspring is very sensitive and requires very little movement of the Arm to create a change in speed
    - DO NOT touch the Hairspring: it is very delicate
    --- if you damage it, don't worry, it can be replaced or repaired if damage is minimal

    - as you move the arm observe carefully with your magnifier to determine if you have moved the arm and how far it has moved
    - if you move the arm too much, don't worry, simply move it the opposite direction a small amount

    - it is helpful to create a small mark on the Indicator scale to help you determine the amount of movement of the Indicator
    --- it may be difficult for you to see how far you have moved the Regulator Arm

    - sometimes you may think that the arm has moved but it has not ! You must observe closely

    - be very careful: do not allow tool to slip and touch other parts

    - regulation requires patience and practice
    --- it is easy to move the Arm too much but it will become easier to do with practice
    --- feel free to practice by moving the Arm back and forth, don't worry, if you are careful you will not damage the mechanism

    Move - Test - Move - Test

    - move the Regulating Arm then test the watch: place it on your time grapher or re-assemble it and wear it for a day
    --- if it is too fast or too slow, repeat the procedure
    --- be patient if you dont have a time grapher system: it may require a week or more to properly regulate your watch when you are learning to move the Arm

    Notes:

    - all 24xx Vostok models have identical Balance assemblies and are regulated identically
    Last edited by Matt_Bored_O; September 3rd, 2017 at 21:01.

  6. #186
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt_Bored_O View Post
    .
    How To:

    - push the end of the Regulating Arm with the stick / tweezers or similar tool
    --- push it Left or Right to increase or decrease speed
    Great guide! Thanks!

    I'm under the impression pushing (as you suggest) is the preferred method by most people. However, when I was new to this I felt uncomfortable pushing the arm feeling I wasn't getting enough control. So, I tried grabbing the end of the regulating arm with my tweezers (and rather firmly so as to not risk pushing it into the hair spring) and then drag it sidewise. It worked very well for me. Also, now that I have a stereo microscope (it's really a blessing once you get seriously tinkering bitten) I'm able to move the arm in a very controlled manner. I'm contemplating trying to make a regulating arm tool that would extend the arm when regulating. If I'm successful with that I'll get back to the thread.
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  7. #187
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by 24 Hours View Post

    ....I tried grabbing the end of the regulating arm with my tweezers (and rather firmly so as to not risk pushing it into the hair spring) and then drag it sidewise. It worked very well for me.

    If very carefully done, this can give better control, as you say.

    The reason it is not often suggested is that when the regulator arm is grasped with tweezers, if you are not careful or if your hand shakes too much, you can dislodge the arm. This could damage the hairspring. However, if you are careful it should be no problem. Do not move the tweezers up or down, just left or right only, or the arm could dislodge.
    Last edited by Matt_Bored_O; September 3rd, 2017 at 20:57.
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  8. #188
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt_Bored_O View Post
    If very carefully done, this can give better control, as you say.

    The reason it is not often suggested is that when the regulator arm is grasped with tweezers, if you are not careful or if your hand shakes too much, you can dislodge the arm. This could damage the hairspring. However, if you are careful it should be no problem. Do not move the tweezers up or down, just left or right only, or the arm could dislodge.
    I really had no idea. Very valuable information. Thanks! I guess I've been lucky never to move the tweezers up or down involuntarily.

    Hmm... I wonder if I'll dare to use this technique the next time around. Maybe I'll think about it, get "the shakes", and dislodge the arm ;)
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  9. #189
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

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    This is only an idea.

    - the end of the Regulator Arm fits into the channel in the threaded rod
    - when the rod is turned by the knob, the rod will move in or out and it
    will push or pull the Arm
    - the rod must have fine threads with lubrication and minimal slack within the
    upright block
    - a spring can be added to reduce slack


    24Hours: please post your idea.
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  10. #190
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Thanks for the info! I'll give it a try after breaking in the movement for a couple of months.

    Still waiting for the watch to arrive. According to Russian mail it's still waiting to leave the country.

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