--- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA --- - Page 20
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  1. #191
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt_Bored_O View Post
    .
    Attachment 12478835

    This is only an idea.

    - the end of the Regulator Arm fits into the channel in the threaded rod
    - when the rod is turned by the knob, the rod will move in or out and it
    will push or pull the Arm
    - the rod must have fine threads with lubrication and minimal slack within the
    upright block
    - a spring can be added to reduce slack


    24Hours: please post your idea.
    What a genius idea! I like it! I guess the movement is fixed in the tool (movement holder function), right?

    My idea is a lot less sophisticated and simply cosists of a piece of peg wood with "a hole" at one of the short sides. My idea is that if the size (width) and shape of the hole can be made to (somewhat) fit the end of the regulator arm the peg wood stick should provide the momentum to move the arm in a more controlled manner. Of course, it would still require some instinctive feel, i.e. my "tool" would be more of a helper than an actual tool. Now, whether this would work or not remains to be seen, but if it works (at least somewhat satisfactory) I'll try to shoot a short video of it.
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  2. #192
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by 24 Hours View Post
    ... I guess the movement is fixed in the tool (movement holder function), right?

    My idea is a lot less sophisticated and simply cosists of a piece of peg wood with "a hole" at one of the short sides. My idea is that if the size (width) and shape of the hole can be made to (somewhat) fit the end of the regulator arm the peg wood stick should provide the momentum to move the arm in a more controlled manner. Of course, it would still require some instinctive feel, i.e. my "tool" would be more of a helper than an actual tool. Now, whether this would work or not remains to be seen, but if it works (at least somewhat satisfactory) I'll try to shoot a short video of it.

    Yes, the movement is fixed in place and aligned with the tool.

    I like your idea. You are creating an extension to the Regulator Arm. This creates more leverage and this will allow the arm to move more easily with more control, as you say.

    Perhaps a leverage arm could be made of non-magnetic metal such as brass or aluminium rod.


    Matt
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  3. #193
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt_Bored_O View Post
    Yes, the movement is fixed in place and aligned with the tool.

    I like your idea. You are creating an extension to the Regulator Arm. This creates more leverage and this will allow the arm to move more easily with more control, as you say.

    Perhaps a leverage arm could be made of non-magnetic metal such as brass or aluminium rod.


    Matt
    Thanks, and you are describing it perfectly (much better than me). Yes, if the "peg wood prototype" works out, I guess it could be a template for a real tool in some non-magnetic alloy. Although in that case, I'd have to find a tool maker.
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  4. #194
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    I decided that the third Vostok calibre 2409 that I took apart would become my qualifying piece of servicing. It was going to be the proof that I was now able to perform a proper 2409 service.

    Before this, I had taken apart a scrap movement (2409) to practice basic skills with my tweezers, screwdrivers, and so on. This movement is still in pieces and I’ll only use it for spare parts. The second 2409 I didn’t just take apart but also cleaned and reassembled but wasn’t too concerned with lubricating and other fine details. It was mostly just for practice. I may want to service it again at a later time.

    The status of my third movement (my qualifying piece), which came from a lot of four 2409s that I bought on eBay for $10, wasn’t too dirty and looked perfectly undamaged. The only problem seemed to be a broken main spring.

    Once finished with the service and replacing the main spring, I put on a new Radio Room dial (that was lying around) and some standard Amphibian hands on it. I then ran it continually in a movement holder under a glass for a couple of weeks in anticipation of a Timegrapher that I had ordered. During this time it seemed to be doing just fine, although I didn’t measure it as I was waiting for the Timegrapher.

    So, come the BIG DAY; my Timegrapher had just arrived from eBay. I mounted the movement in a left over Vostok case, wound it up and put it on the Timegrapher, and the following is what came out:

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    Needless to say; this, for sure, was very disappointing!

    It took me a few days to recover from my disappointment. I then opened up the case back, had a good look inside, didn’t see anything suspicious, at all, blew it lightly with my dust blower, lightly screwed on the case back lid, and put it back on the Timegrapher. This time around, to my astonishment, it was running like clockwork! The amplitude was as good as can be expected from a Vostok 24xx movement (perhaps even better!?), and the beat error was less than 0.4 milliseconds (same as before). After having adjusted the beat error and the rate here are the Timegrapher readings:

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    Needless to say; I felt extremely relieved, proud and happy!

    The big question now is; why did I get the horrible amplitude the first time around? I’ve been scrutinizing it in and out but I just can’t come up with a plausible explanation. The only thing I can come to think of is that the case back lid might have pressed on one or several bridges. I did screw it on very hard the first time around (Amphibia style), and pretty lightly the second time around. This lid is definitely thinner than that of the Amphibians.

    Comrades, if anyone of you has any idea about what could have caused the very low amplitude and/or have some reflections you’d like to share about the Timegrapher readings, please let me hear it, and thanks for reading!
    Last edited by 24 Hours; September 12th, 2017 at 08:43.
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  5. #195
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Matt asked if I could take a few measurements of some Vostok bezels and supply the results. There are way too many variations of bezel so I just selected what would probably represent a broad range, I'm sure I've missed the ones you really want

    What I noticed is that the older bezels from the Vostok 119 Tonneau watches all had a slightly smaller inner diameter than their modern counterparts. This could in part be due to the 119 having a very low profile domed crystal that blended well with the contour of the bezel.

    I couldn't find an easy way to describe and list the results, so I figured a big azzed picture would have to do.

    I hope this comes as a handy reference to some enthusiasts. Also please bear in mind that my measurements might be ever so slightly different to others due to variables such as wear on the bezel etc.

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  6. #196
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by mariomart View Post
    Matt asked if I could take a few measurements of some Vostok bezels and supply the results.
    Great stuff! Thanks!
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  7. #197
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Hello all you amazing Vostok-modders. I am in the process of modding a couple of these beauties and have found this thread an amazing resource - big thanks @mattbeme!! I do however have a couple of questions that I haven't gotten answered yet (I've read the whole thread but if I missed this, then please correct me):
    - Do the vintage Vostoks generally have the same kind of cases as the modern ones? I.e. should new bezels generally fit also vintage cases? Anything particular to keep in mind here?
    - Does anyone have any tips on which aftermarket bezel to get if you want the watch to be as slim as possible? I really love Dr.Seikostain's bezels, but they do seem to be a bit thick? Recommendations?
    - Any good tips on how to get a more vintage feel on a bezel and insert to match older vintage style dials and cases? Often the lume is a problem as the new lume contrasts to the vintage yellow lume. Also the general style of a new insert is shiny and clean. Any good tips on how to 'wear them down?

    Many thanks!!


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  8. #198
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by japocc View Post
    Hello all you amazing Vostok-modders. I am in the process of modding a couple of these beauties and have found this thread an amazing resource - big thanks @mattbeme!! I do however have a couple of questions that I haven't gotten answered yet (I've read the whole thread but if I missed this, then please correct me):
    - Do the vintage Vostoks generally have the same kind of cases as the modern ones? I.e. should new bezels generally fit also vintage cases? Anything particular to keep in mind here?
    - Does anyone have any tips on which aftermarket bezel to get if you want the watch to be as slim as possible? I really love Dr.Seikostain's bezels, but they do seem to be a bit thick? Recommendations?
    - Any good tips on how to get a more vintage feel on a bezel and insert to match older vintage style dials and cases? Often the lume is a problem as the new lume contrasts to the vintage yellow lume. Also the general style of a new insert is shiny and clean. Any good tips on how to 'wear them down?
    1. Yes, but you have to beware of crown tolerance. Some bezels are for the wider cases (090, 110) & will therefore interfere with crowns on the narrower cases (all vintage + 420, 710, etc.)

    2. I haven't handled in person any aftermarket bezels but of the images I have seen they all stand proud of the crystal shoulder (edge), but I believe still below the peak of the crystal, so it depends on your definition of slim. IMO, if you want slim, you're best sticking with OEM bezels or bezels that copy OEM styles.
    -here's an example of a bezel hitting right at the crystal shoulder but this one in particular is for the larger cases
    -same bezel but for the smaller cases & you will notice a cutout along the bottom for the crown:
    NEW! BEZEL TO VOSTOK Vostok Amphibian watches without insert â„–2 | eBay

    3. Bake it in the oven to try to darken the lume, with or without wet coffee grounds on the pip. To age it, try gentle sanding w/fine-grit sandpaper or scotch brite / gently bleach the insert / pop it in a box of bolts & shake it around / skip stones on a river - but change the stone to your bezel & the river to a concrete slab. Then polish up the jagged edges (cape cod or steel wool) for a timeworn look. Faux aging is probably best performed on the case & bezel together otherwise you're not likely to match the "age".
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  9. #199
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    1. Yes, but you have to beware of crown tolerance. Some bezels are for the wider cases (090, 110) & will therefore interfere with crowns on the narrow...
    Wow - great tips and help, much appreciated! I will give this a try and let you guys know the result.. :)


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  10. #200
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    My Amphibia has a very sluggish date roll over. are there any "simple" repairs that address this, is it indicative of a worn/broken part, or something that needs adjustment/cleaning/oiling?

    I want to crack it open and attempt to regulate it anyways, figure I might as well address the date rollover if I can.

    Basically it takes from about midnight to 3am to fully hit the next date. Meanwhile my blue "submarine" dial clacks instantly into place a few minutes after midnight (It's woken me up while sleeping with the watch on) and I'd love to get that back. I believe it used to firmly click into place and at some point it turned sluggish.

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