A short Tutorial on „How to use and calibrate a Casio Altimeter“:
1. Attach a string to your Casio AB(C) watch (feel free to use any length)
2. Abseil the watch into an Abyss until you hold the string’s end between your fingers
3. Get the watch up again
4. Use a measuring tape to measure the string length
5. Success! Now you have carefully calibrated the Altimeter
6. Important!!! The Altimeter Lock will stay enabled, unless you shorten or lengthen the string
I'm not keen on the look of the new Muddie, it sems a tad too large for my taste, and the dial/display is far too busy for me. I also dislikes deeply recessed eyes and "display separators", like on the GW-9200. And I dont need the compass. I find the SGW-100 got a much better look/size/price and the display layout is much better to me. There's a few details the G-9300 do better - light duration, STW 24, shortcut to main screen, but that's about it, and for me it certainly dont justify buying the G-9300.
The GR-8900 looks much nicer IMHO, it had the potential of being a nice basic G from the new generation.... Like being an updated version of the DW-9052 type of modules... But not showing current time in STW/CDT is a bummer...
Last edited by ThomAsio; September 7th, 2011 at 12:24.
G-Shocks: GD-350, DW-9900, 2XGX-56, GW-2500B, DW-5000SL, GW-6900, G-2900, G-3010, G-3011, G-5500, 2XG-7600, 5XG-7710, G-7900, 5XG-8000, G-8100, 2XDW-6900, GT-001, G-7800, 3XGL-7500
Casio: PRW-1200, PAW-500, SGW-300, DB-E30, DB-37, DW-290, AE-1000, W-S200, 2XW-S220, AMW-707, AQ-S810, EFD-1000
Citizen BM6831, Traser Super Sport, Suunto X-Lander, Angular Momentum Illum 2, Tressa wristalarm, 2 Poljot wristalarms, Sorna vintage style wristalarm, Studio S Pilot's Watch, Seiko SNK807, SNE107, Aristo U-Boot
I agree on STW, 24 hr CDT and current time in all modes (though I'll never get any practical use of a 1.000 STW, but it dont comes in my way, so it's okay). But the same can be said about the Riseman, and that one didnt do the trick for me. The display layout is sligthly better on the Mud, than on the Rise (less problems due to shadow casting due to recessed display close to the red ring and the "carrying arm"), but I know I'll find this annoying. And the compass/moon circle things is just out of proportions to my eyes, squezing too much info into too little space. I find it cramped.
I'm pretty sure, that if I get a G(W)-9300, it'll appears nice in the beginning, like the Riseman, with it's excellent module - but after a while, I'll find it lacking in the basics compartment, like the Riseman. The Mud is improved in some ways compared to the Riseman... But... after some time, initial wow factor fades, and reality kicks in, basic stuff like buttons and readibility begins to count more... As far I understand so far, this is still a true Mudman with stiff buttons, aka mud protection?
I do like the choise of light duration and shortcut to mainscreen (keep C pressed for 2 secs).
Last edited by ThomAsio; September 8th, 2011 at 11:39.
I like the "batteryless" feature. What's wrong with 14 days? A watch is made to be worn. If you don't wear it enough to charge it up during a 14-day period, maybe you shouldn't have that type of watch!
Thanks for the info!
Hi Sedi - sorry I didnt catched your suggestion/advise, guess I was just dissapointed by Casio (GR-8900). Well, I shouldnt have been, it's typically Casio, my hopes was just too high...
You are right the 9300 display layout is somwhat like the 8900, and the 8900 probably have the same problems with shadow casting. Well, that made it a bit more clearly (to me at least), that in general I find G displays a bit on the small side, I prefer Protrek display style. So when they stuff too many functions in a G, the G display/dial layout often get too much for my taste. I like some of the G's style, but I lean more and more towards the basic kind of G. The DW-9052 is a good example of what I like - that one also suffers from shadow casting, particularly on the upper display, but otherwise it's a quite wholehearted G, and it can also be found for good prices NIB.
Basically same problem as with an auto, though an auto usually only have 1-2 days power reserve... The Casio 190 is easier to keep going, just store it with some daylight avaible. An auto requires a selfwinder If the auto aint got a perpeptual calendar, it might be faster to setup from scratch than the Casio...
Personally, I dont see much point in a batteryless... The solar panel requires a lot of energy to produce, and it wont produce an equal amount of power through it's entire lifetime anyway... So in the case of a solar, I'd rather go all the way and choose a model with a rechargeable battery. Unless it's for supporting the concept in hope of better performance/products later on... But of course, the fancyness can play a role too
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