Preventing Clutch Wear and the "Full Wind"

[Aquaracer1]

Embarrassingly enough - I just learned something new about the clutch mechanism in our Autos, and what a "Full Wind" really is. (To test the power reserve.)

Sometimes I hear people say, "dont worry, you cant overwind it." OK, but you can put significant wear in the clutch mechanism over time. How do you prevent this? What does it sound like when fully wound?

Also, regarding Power Reserve in our Autos: Is it possible that different calibres require more or less winding? For example, I just tested the PR in my two 2500 Omegas. 40 full winds, nor 50 will hold a full power reserve. It takes 60 full winds. However when it comes to the GO calibre 90, an expert told me that approximately 40-50 full winds will do the trick. (My defective GO is currrently being replaced.)

Your thoughts and experiences on both matters? Thanks

[mr00jimbo]

I had no idea you could do ANY damage to an automatic by overwinding it. Doesn't that also mean that too much wrist movement will damage it too? Cause your wrist is winding it too...

[Aquaracer1]

To clarify, I don't mean damaging by overwinding. I mean putting excess wear on the clutch mechanism, that could possibly break in the long run. I am no expert here, but am hoping for some of my friends to weigh in!

[Tzimisces]

To clarify, I don't mean damaging by overwinding. I mean putting excess wear on the clutch mechanism, that could possibly break in the long run. I am no expert here, but am hoping for some of my friends to weigh in!

I think you need to clarify more. How is the clutch mechanism getting excess wear? What would be "excess" wear and what would be "normal" wear?

[ulackfocus]

I think there may be some confusion about what the 'clutch' really is. It is MUCH simpler than you think AqR - check out the link:

http://www.watchtalkforums.info/foru...insprings.html

[Aquaracer1]

I think you need to clarify more. How is the clutch mechanism getting excess wear? What would be "excess" wear and what would be "normal" wear?

I dont know dude, thats why I'm asking.

I think there may be some confusion about what the 'clutch' really is. It is MUCH simpler than you think AqR - check out the link:

http://www.watchtalkforums.info/foru...insprings.html

Thats helpful thanks. So I will just listen for a metallic "tic, tic." Is this easy to hear? I have never heard it. Hopefully most modern clutch systems are robust. (Wouldnt want to break that mechanism!)

So, do different calibres require more or less winding?

[Denizen]

So, do different calibres require more or less winding?

yes, it may vary due to the length of the mainspring, # of barrels etc.

frankly, unless you use a winder...you're not likely to run into any potential danger of 'excessive wear' on your automatics. if you use a winder, set it to the required # of turns to maintain the current power reserve (PR).

you should avoid manually winding (to full PR) your automatic watches. i don't use winders anymore. i simply do 6-10 'swirls' to wind the rotor enough to get it running, set the time, and put it on the wrist.

[Aquaracer1]

Thanks. Just curious, why should manually winding watches up to full power reserve be avoided? Excessive wear on the movement / mainspring?

[ulackfocus]

Thanks. Just curious, why should manually winding watches up to full power reserve be avoided? Excessive wear on the movement / mainspring?

The clutch is no more - it's just an extra piece of mainspring welded on to the end of the spring called a sliding bridle but with a curve in the opposite direction. If the inner barrel walls are not properly lubricated (graphite grease usually) it will scratch them.

[Ananda]

to save unnecessary wear and tear on the slipping bridle don't over wind it if on a winder. also, take it off your wrist at night. if hand winding, stop after 30 or 40 turns. but these things are meant to be used, so no point worrying too much. my uneducated thoughts.