What passes for a "formal" watch?

[honestlygreedy]

Where do you draw the line? Would you consider a chronograph on your formal watch? Are you ok with a same-color bezel with some markings? What other things come to mind?

[Likestheshiny]

Apparently, almost anything passes as "formal" these days. People here sometimes talk about wearing giant chunky colourful divers to formal occasions.

But, to me, a formal watch is uncluttered, with roman numbers or simple markers, not a chronograph or diver, with an unmarked bezel, on a leather strap, in a size that hides easily under a shirt cuff.

[John MS]

Where do you draw the line? Would you consider a chronograph on your formal watch? Are you ok with a same-color bezel with some markings? What other things come to mind?

A chronograph, dive watch or other sporty watch isn't formal at all to me. Some of them could work with a business suit, but that isn't formal dress. To me a formal watch would be one that is very simple in design with only markers, simply styled three hands. To me the ultimate in current production formality is the Movado Museum watch. Here are a few vintages that are formal enough I would have no problem wearing with a tux.

[cedargrove]

Apparently, almost anything passes as "formal" these days. People here sometimes talk about wearing giant chunky colourful divers to formal occasions.

But, to me, a formal watch is uncluttered, with roman numbers or simple markers, not a chronograph or diver, with an unmarked bezel, on a leather strap, in a size that hides easily under a shirt cuff.

This for me too.

[LosTresGatos]

I always use this as a litmus test:



The fifty fathoms dresses up incredibly well. It's uncluttered, not overly thick (for a diver), has a sleek black ceramic bezel that would blend with a suit or tux and definitely makes it look snazzy in a leather strap. Blancpain even offers them with tourbillions, a very delicate complication that usually only goes on non-sporty watches. I have no doubt that it would easily pass today's standard for a dress or formal watch.

But I would not wear one in a formal, non-business occasion (wedding, funeral, charity dinner, etc.). For me, formal watch has to be

- thin
- no rotating bezel
- preferably less than 5 words on the dial
- preferably no numerals (Definitely no arabic, but I would wear roman)
- leather/reptile strap or mesh bracelet (and it better be a fine mesh)
- No restrictions on complications, but the bias towards thin dials puts most chronographs out of contention.

Traditional top contenders include: JLC Ultra Thin, Tissot LeLocle, Patek Calatrava, Nomos Orion, Blancpain Villeret.
Junghans Max Bill is one of the few chrono's I'd consider for formal use as well:




Edit: Sorry, wrong Chronoscope - I meant to post this version with no numbers and much cleaner subdials

[jmp909]

Where do you draw the line? Would you consider a chronograph on your formal watch? Are you ok with a same-color bezel with some markings? What other things come to mind?

Anything worn with a blazer. Why do people overthink these invented *issues" so much?

[seoulseeker]

I wouldn't be shy wearing my divers watches with a suit, but I wouldn't qualify them as formal - just accepted.

If you want a true formal watch, I would say it is best to stick to having no arabic numerals, one subdial at most (small seconds), a leather band, no rotating bezel, and 40mm or below. A whole bunch of vintage watches will fall into this category.

[Likestheshiny]

Anything worn with a blazer. Why do people overthink these invented *issues" so much?

Because we're the ones who feel awkwardly embarrassed around that guy at every wedding who thinks black and white Nike sneakers are "formal" because he's wearing them with a suit.

[Perseus]

I think the classic formal watch is smaller and thinner without Arabic numerals and on a leather strap. At least in the US everything is becoming more casual so their is a lot of flexibility in what watch looks appropriate. I see congressmen and senators wearing digital Casio's with suits but it's not a good look.

[incontrol]

Is this formal?




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