LM-7 (PloProf) design thread 4

[diverx]

Mitch, you're rounding the final turn with that CAD. If the bezel release will be smooth, how will the change take place between the stainless and the red anodized? Will there be a small allen head type hole (torex perhaps). Just wondering what the physical mechanism will be to allow the switch. I have the same question in regards to the bezel. I know some concepts were kicked around a couple months ago, but I don't remember hearing any final solution to the bezel change option. Keep plugging away, everything is looking great!

[wielingab]

Here is the latest drawing that was previously posted. This is what I would like to see in the final product, except with a smooth push button.

The watch will definitely include a spare bezel and both stainless and red anodized buttons.

I dont' believe that a suitable thick mesh bracelet is available from Asian suppliers. We will offer our new bracelet separately, in steel.

Are there any final comments or suggestions on the design? It's time to start production. The plan is to have samples in late October, and full production in late December. That means delivery in early January.


Two hundred movements are already bought and paid for, so the sooner, the better.

Mitch

Mitch,

I love it when every thing falls together the right way. The watch is just perfect, I really like the lock bezel function (60 clicks is the right way to go I discovered using many watches when diving. Dive computers registrate diving time in hole minutes anyway), especially after reading that the crystal will be screwed onto the watch.

This fully eliminates the use of a HEV. The main reason for a HEV, is because due to overpresure from Helium, the crystal could pop out of the watch. Not the screwed back, because it will cope with the overpressure.

If the Crystal is also screwed onto the watch (and is strong enough, 1000m equals 3 to 4mm thickness) and it looks like it, it will cope with the overpressure as wel. Normal HE valve operate between 1.5 to 3 bar overpressure, even with pressure fitted crystals.

I.e. the IWC Aquatimer 2000m uses glue to bond the crystal to the watch. The Aquatimer will cope with 10 bar overpressure, overcoming the missing of a helium valve at all.

Bart

[MitchSF]

The push button will be screwed onto a threaded post. A little blue or green Locktite will keep it on forever, or use red Locktite for blow torch only removal!

The bezel should be replaced by a watchmaker, but hopefully that won't be necessary for many years.

It must be difficult to replace the crystal on the Aquatimer. I think our crystal is around 4mm thick.

Mitch

[Nalu]

If the bezel release will be smooth, how will the change take place between the stainless and the red anodized? Will there be a small allen head type hole (torex perhaps). Just wondering what the physical mechanism will be to allow the switch. I have the same question in regards to the bezel.

I believe the mechanism will be like the original SMP600. To switch the button, one will have to remove the bezel (levers off like almost every other watch with a turning bezel) and a channeled set screw will have to be removed, after which the pushbutton and spring can be removed. It sounds complicated, but it takes 5 minutes in the Ploprof. Exactly because it is a simple mechanism, it will be inexpensive to buy a new button and it should be removed and cleaned after a period of salt water immersion - after a beach holiday for example.

[bobbysamd]

Here is the latest drawing that was previously posted. This is what I would like to see in the final product, except with a smooth push button.

Smooth push button. Smooooooth!

Are there any final comments or suggestions on the design? It's time to start production. The plan is to have samples in late October, and full production in late December. That means delivery in early January.

IMHO, you are there!

While it would be nice to get the watch sooner, really, for me, the timing is just fine. A great way to start the New Year!

Two hundred movements are already bought and paid for, so the sooner, the better.

ETA or Selitta movements? Just curious. ETA are what they are and, from my readings, Selittas are excellent movements.

Will your new steel bracelet be oyster or rice style, etc. or mesh?

[diverx]

Loctite and a threaded post works for me, as long as that post has some meat to it. A screw-down crystal, IMO, is the best possible choice for a watch of this nature. I've worked on, refurbished or modified enough divers to have great appreciation for this choice of design. There is more machining and initial design involved, but the result is a tue tool watch that can be disassembled, serviced, reassembled and worn with confidence without worry of intrusion. Outside the warranty period, you know you can take this to any competent watchmaker and have it serviced without the need for specialized tools, etc. and it won't cost you an arm and leg. Great design!

[Danny S]

Back when discussion on this watch got started I never would have believed how perfect this most recent CAD would have turned out. (hell, I was afraid asking for an acrylic capped bezel was reaching.. thought the sapphire covered bezel would blow us outta the water for sure!)

This one's from the heart Mitch, Thanks guy!

Movements bought & pd for!? I recall some discussion about motors, but didn't realize there was a final decision.. what'd we end up with?

[smurfe]

I really don't know what else could be changed. Looks like your vision has materialized. I think you ought to post the final specs and enjoy a cold one for a job well done!

[Carl.1]

All looking good so far but i do have reservations about the aluminium anodised pushbutton.

I currently regularly sportdive, roughly 150 dives per year.

I have been diving for 17 years now and without exception the kit i use that has any aluminium parts to it is rubbish, handles on dive reels notably. These without exception always end up with a horrible pitting and with a serious white 'furry' breakdown of the metal.

There is a reason all my accesories are brass or stainless steel. I would avoid aluminium unless you know something i don't. The anodising will be no deterent to the serious corrosion even with regular rinsing after dives.

My intention is for this watch to replace my current diver as a regular use bit of kit and believe that aluminium is a mistake.

If you do use aluminium can mine be fitted with the stainless button on delivery?

I appreciate that the red of the button is important but i worry that maybe we are sacrificing function for looks.

Don't get me wrong i am excited about this watch and can't wait to wear and use it but feel it should be the best it can be and am concerned that aluminium is not the material to use.

Perhaps red can be included in to the make up of the stainless button?

I pose these points because i do not know so open it to those with more knowledge than i.

Regards. Carl.

[MitchSF]

Finding the right supplier for each situation is the key to successfully completing a project such as this. Many factories would not even consider doing something out of their comfort zone.

We will use the Sellita SW200. That was my first choice.

The button can be changed easily, since it is screwed in place. We will ship both, but we will definitely not get involved in asking what buttons everyone wants installed.