LM-6 sample pictures

[smurfe]

I agree with both of you. Steve, maybe C3 on black and C1 on the other colors isn't a bad idea.

I don't know what other options available to us. I will speak with the manufacturer tomorrow.

Mitch

A good idea. I will say that I believe my blue dialed Seamaster and my orange dialed Doxa have C3 and they look fine. I feel you should make the black LM-6 dial the same as the LM-1 dial.

[J.Wayne]

Mitch, I’m torn between which flavor to choose…

Please try to do some mock-ups showing the options if you can.
I’m glad we’re discussing this before the dials had been made.
A picture is the best way to judge and I agree that the daytime color
should be the highest priority, even if it sacrifices nightime luminosity. *shudder*

As others have suggested, the C-3 on the black and the C-1 on the colored dials makes sense.

I wouldn’t necessarily condemn the greenish C-3 with the colored dials until I saw it.
Others seem to already know it’s not a good combination so I will likely defer to their judgment.


…HEY, I just had a wild idea, why not inquire about tritium paint, possibly mixed with the SL
for a lume job! I know it seems old tech, but is there a reason it’s not being used today?
besides the issue of radioactivity? Man, if you could mix the SuperLuminova
and the tritium together it would seem to be a helluva good idea.

P.S. I'll try to remember the different flavors so I won't have to use such offensive terminology.


J.

[Nalu]

J.

Tritium paint is NLA - too many health risks to the manufacturers I would guess. And SL is overall a better alternative, given the instability of tritium. Here's a typical Omega tritium dial:



The lume looks as if it's melting away. I know other watchmakers had better results with their H3 dials (e.g. Rolex), but I don't know how they did it and am not sure if anyone still does?

I don't know if the old Sea 3 threads are visible, but there was an extensive discussion of the various types of luminous material there, along with a 'chart'. All good info, I'll be sad if it's gone. When UDF/EoT changed formats, it may have been lost.

I'll shoot some pics of my 1 Tausend (C-3, orange dial) and some of my other coloured watches for comparison. The white does look better on the coloured dials to me, black is a mixed bag. I've got a C-3 black-dialled watch that looks bad (Certina DS-3) and others that look pretty good (Ploprof, etc.).

I like the filled-in hands on the LM-6. The skeleton hands don't suit a chunky watch very well, IMO.

[Goalie]

Just my 2 cents on this, I'm not a diver but love dive watches so I guess my opinion is not as important. I don't think the lume matters high on my reasons to buy a watch or not. I would buy the tube version of this if it's available because that does have real world use to me working at night as a Police Officer. I understand to divers how important lume is, but I think the overall look of a watch is far more imortant. I'm fairly new around here, but I wonder how many WUS members actually dive? I'm sure that topic has been covered though.

Tom

[Guido Muldoon]

Any sport watch has pretty much got to have some kind of lume; C1, C3, white, green, blue...something. I'm not particular. Go with whatever looks best with a given dial color. When I need to see the time at 0400 I've got my Luminox on. It may not get much respect from a lot of people but I can read a book by its light. I love the lume on my LM-1 and its OK on the LM-3. But if you really want to glow in the dark, go radioactive.

[setherd]

I don't know if they can mix C1 and C3 but Kent Parks did a custom relume on a watch for me. He mixed the C3 with some C1 it looks white but glows better than C1.
Just throwing this out there to confuse things :)

[MitchSF]

The dial factory is the same one that made the LM-1 dial, and the hand factory is also the same. There are two differences between the LM-1 and the LM-3/6 with respect to their manufacturers - the case manufacturer, and the Swiss company doing the assembly work.

The dial company can use a little more C1 on the dial markers, but they say it won't make much difference. The problem is that the luminous markers are small. They recommend C3. I'm leaning toward C3 on black dials including the chrono, and C1 on colors. This approach favors form over function for the colored dials, but those who really care about lume have a good option in the black dial.

This also appears to be the concensus. Are we on the right track?

Mitch

[dleibow]

That sounds like a good choice to me.
This will be another great watch.
David

[SeikoSickness]

Mitch,

I agree. I'm not a "lume freak" and have always found that lume intensity is only important when going into dark places from bright sunshine. During the night, over a longer period of time, when your eyes have adjusted the lume is just fine.

I'm not into coloured dials, so I'll have better lume with C3 anyway.

Marcin

[MitchSF]

One problem with this - production quantities of each dial color can be determined at assembly time, but with two different lume colors on the dials, how do we decide what to use for the bezel triangle, which is filled with lume when the case is assembled at the case factory?

Mitch