Thread: Bracelet Quality

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  1. #1
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    Bracelet Quality

    From my personal experience, bracelets seem to vary in quality even within the same price bracket. Aesthetics aside, the build quality can be more or less objectively assessed in the following crude method:

    1. with the watch on, look at the bracelet from the side view from a distance of about 6 inches. a bracelet engineered to a tight tolerance will not show gaps between the links. i.e. you cannot see your skin under the bracelet. A lesser bracelet will have visible gaps.


    vs

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    Somewhere between those 2 extremes:

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    And

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    2. the deployant also seem to vary quite a bit in the affordable price range. I don't know what is the optimal deployant configuration but I favor the single fold deployant secured with a metal nub.

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    the butterfly configuration is one common alternative design

    Finally, I will just leave this observation out there. In the watches I own, one with the best bracelet can do this:

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    Watch "stands" on the bracelet when laid flat with the deployant closed.

    The lesser bracelets seem to flop down.

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    I'm curious to see how this test to see if the watch can "stand" on its bracelet bears out with the higher end pieces.
    Last edited by myoclonus; April 11th, 2012 at 19:44.

  2. #2
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    Re: Bracelet Quality

    It's a bit subjective too because wrists are not universal and do vary in shape and size. What may be a "fit like a glove" comfort for one may be a painful experience for another.
    Here's my opinion
    I classify quality of bracelet with some attributes from yours but not always:
    1. Does the watch show gaps that are not obviously attributed to design more than tolerances. (gaps between the sides of the links should be 0) while gaps between rows of links is dependent on the bracelet style.
    2. Does the watch produce a loud clinking rattle or a louder thud of metal. This helps give a good idea as to: A) the amount of space between links in bow different rows and side to side B) Annoyance factor.
    3. Do the end links have play where they sit in the lugs. Size of spring Bars, and largest possible size. If folded end links, then how thick is the metal and how many points of reinforcement are there if any)
    4. How is the bracelet held in together? Screws, pins, thickness of pins. Any play in the pins? Are they soft, or tough to remove. How is the clasp held together? Rivets, pushpins, screws? How does the bracelet connect with the clasp (push pins, are they solid end links?)
    5. Deployment clasp's thickness in several parts and tolerance for the metal nob in double push button deployment (does it wobble when locked?). How is the safety lock secured, is it by spring bar or just friction?
    6. Does the clasp pinch the skin or does the bracelet have tendency to pull hairs?
    7. Any micro adjustments? Ease of adjustments, etc.

    A watch standing will never happen with the 3rd bracelet you posted unless you adjust it your self to stand in which case most bracelets can do the same.

    My Tissot Le Locle's bracelet (7 piece link construction) will fall flat, but if I position the bracelet links I can get it to stand up. I can do that with all bracelets I've had.

    Remember tolerances doesn't mean everything has to be super tight. It just refers to how far from specifications is the manufactured product.
    For example:
    If the bracelet is designed to have gaps in the bracelet of say: .3mm-.5mm for comfort and the bracelet when manufactured ended up with .01mm it doesn't mean they hit tight tolerance in fact they missed them by a mile. Imagine a jubilee bracelet with no gaps.

    This is why I think it can get subjective because in the end what matters is if the bracelet is comfortable on your wrist or not!

  3. #3
    Member ManMachine's Avatar
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    Re: Bracelet Quality

    Very good thread and comments.

    I think comfort is the number 1 priority, followed by security.

    I'd like see more in depth discussions about the bracelets - designs, tests, and proper maintenance.

  4. #4
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    Re: Bracelet Quality

    Quote Originally Posted by ManMachine View Post
    Very good thread and comments.

    I think comfort is the number 1 priority, followed by security.

    I'd like see more in depth discussions about the bracelets - designs, tests, and proper maintenance.
    I am actually gathering some bracelets. I have 3 atm but would like to get some more later on that will be used for testing.

  5. #5
    Member dnslater's Avatar
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    Re: Bracelet Quality

    I disagree with many of the points above. Some of the best watches/bracelets that I have owned are "floppy" and you see see skin through them. This is the way they were designed and not because of poor tolerances.


    Kind Regards,
    Nick
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