Thread: Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

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  1. #1
    Member LouS's Avatar
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    Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

    This concerns the vintage GayFreres bracelets for El Primero. According to those in my possession, ZJ endpieces go for the A 386, and ZKM for the angled tonneau cases. So what then do ZK endpieces go with? David put the question ot me, and I have no idea - they look like ZKMs to me. Moreover, I can't think of another model that requires a convex endpiece. Any ideas?

    Here's David's picture of a ZK endpiece:

  2. #2
    Member John Chris's Avatar
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    Re: Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

    If David's A384 has a ZK, that puzzles me. My A384, like SV's pictured in his "Caught a Big Fish" thread, has a ZKM endpiece, and both look just like David's. What is the date on David's bracelet?

  3. #3
    DED
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    Re: Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

    Quote Originally Posted by John Chris View Post
    If David's A384 has a ZK, that puzzles me. My A384, like SV's pictured in his "Caught a Big Fish" thread, has a ZKM endpiece, and both look just like David's. What is the date on David's bracelet?
    Hello John,
    Bracelet is stamped 3 70
    Cheers,
    David

  4. #4
    Member sempervivens's Avatar
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    Re: Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

    Interesting. So the 'M' is missing on the 'ZKM' endpieces of David's bracelet.

    Maybe it is because David's is an older bracelet from 3/70?

    The 'Z' simply stands for Zenith, this I learned from "Gay Freres Bracelet, the definitive guide" (a thread about Heuer Gay Frères bracelets)

    http://www.vintageheuer.net/index.ph...d=137&Itemid=2

    In the same thread I saw there seems to be little difference between the HLD and HLF endlinks (there are some small differences though), but they were used in a different time period (1969-70 vs. 1971-73).
    Last edited by sempervivens; July 2nd, 2012 at 14:19.
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  5. #5
    Member 31 Jewels's Avatar
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    Re: Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

    There is an Espada Bracelet made by G Freres on ebay right now. I thought that he didnt make them or atleast that was the word here but its there. So unless the buckle was changed, an Espada could have one. The endlinks lugs were shaved down or i would have gone for it. 31

  6. #6
    Member sempervivens's Avatar
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    Re: Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

    Quote Originally Posted by 31 Jewels View Post
    There is an Espada Bracelet made by G Freres on ebay right now. I thought that he didnt make them or atleast that was the word here but its there. So unless the buckle was changed, an Espada could have one. The endlinks lugs were shaved down or i would have gone for it. 31
    Good find. First time I see this type of bracelet signed G F.

    Clearly the buckle (or the inside of the buckle) was changed.

    The G.F. date stamp inside the buckle (first quarter 1969) is also way too old for this style of bracelet (ca. 1971-72).

    They should give it to me ... I could use the inside to restore the (real) G.F. bracelet on my A277 (where apparently the inside of the buckle was changed for an anonymous...)

    However I'm not quite prepared yet to pay 100's of $ for the inside of a buckle and some pieces of a bracelet...

    Same seller also has a Zenith Defy Gauss for sale, with the same style of bracelet, but this one has the correct inner buckle, signed on the inside with the Movado-Zenith logo.
    Last edited by sempervivens; July 7th, 2012 at 11:01.
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    Re: Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

    I believe there is a 3rd end which is barrel/tube shaped that was used on some of the subseas. I will look to see it there are any letters. I will also post images of all three in a few days

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    Re: Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

    Quote Originally Posted by mahamithra View Post
    I believe there is a 3rd end which is barrel/tube shaped that was used on some of the subseas. I will look to see it there are any letters. I will also post images of all three in a few days
    The only "ladder" style GF I have has "ZKM" on the end pieces (dated 3/71), but looks the same as David's example. It came with my A3818, but I doubt it started on that watch.

    On my 1968 diver, the GF is a different style, but has barrel/tubes with "ZD" (dated 3/69). Interestingly, I have another GF in the same style with barrel/tube end pieces from 1/71, but it is marked "ZP." I wonder why the change?

  9. #9
    Member LouS's Avatar
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    Re: Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

    could indistinct stamping cause the D to look like a P?

  10. #10
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    Re: Vintage El Primero bracelet questions

    Quote Originally Posted by LouS View Post
    could indistinct stamping cause the D to look like a P?
    I don't think so...As I look closer, it appears that the end pieces may be slightly different, with the ZP cut away on one side.

    Here are a few shots, which aren't that great. On the second one, you can see on the loose bracelet that the "ZP" end piece is cut away slightly, exposing more of the pin.




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