Last edited by Chromejob; March 26th, 2013 at 12:21.
“Your clock, is it correct?” “Always!”
MK II Kingston "Bond" style w/gilt dial, non-date. O&W M5, "5513." Orient EV09, ER1S (2010 STI Series I). Seikos: SKXA47K (2005), 7T32-6M59 (1991), H558-5009 (1985), 7A48-7000 (1985), 7009-4040 (1980?), 6117-6410 (1974). Steinhart Ocean Black DLC. Tissot TXL Digital7. Yema Y182 (7T32 movement).
1a. is there a way to have the crystal polished on the frosted part so that it looks closer to an acrylic one? I think that would be a really neat look. I think the Omega Moonwatch with Sapphire tried to get the crystal curve similar to the acrylic one and though not the same, they did an admirable job with it. I know that adds to the cost of this watch or any other, but I think it looks cool.
2. What was the highest crystal you've done? I mean on what model?
Last edited by rmasso; March 26th, 2013 at 22:36.
The next update will be posted this Sunday. I will try to fix the lost attachments then as well.
I have re-uploaded the missing images that were lost with the server problem.
Below are the changes I have made today. We are beginning the refining of the design so the changes are getting less dramatic but no less important. Here is a list of the changes I made this week:
* I reconciled the side views with each other (9 and 3) and also the top view with the side views.
* I made the mid-section of the case (the area around the crown) about 0.1 mm thicker and the top side a little flatter. To be honest I am not sure about this change yet. I have to stare at it a few days to see if I like it. I can make some adjustments to the bottom of the lugs to make the whole mid-section look thinner. I am just thinking if I haven't unbalanced the side view of the case with the latest changes.
I am going to start tweaking the top view next week and continuing to adjust the side view. I think I want to make the dial a bit bigger and the ID of the bezel a bit bigger as well. I may or may not need to free up some space for the side-walls of the crystal to make sure the dial isn't distorted when you look straight down on the case. I am not sure yet. (Please note that the dial isn't final. I just dropped in what I had. The print above the size can be decided last. Its more important that the font and size of the markers is right - Sorry just noticed that this still has the Arial numerals on that that are supposed to be replaced)
It may be hard to see unless the pictures are scaled down to 1:1 but I am thinking about shaving either 0.5 mm off the length of the watch or making it wider (from 41.25 now to 42.00). The lugs look too long for my taste, although that is an accurate representation of the example I have here.
There's a Seamaster for sale in Holland. Here are two interesting pics (Eddy C.'s pics on Horlogeforum.nl):
Dive watches; not only for underwater
also... would really like to se a lower bezelring on thisone... iow, the straight part leading up to the knurls of the bezel. just my 2cents..
Doxa SUB 5000T Caribbean
Scorpion Reef Diver
Prospex Tuna Can
I would agree with jussi, that I would shave some length over going wider. I think one of the defining attributes that make Omega's design classic is the shorter lug-to-lug dimensions that their watches carry. For example, (according to web sources) the submariner has a 40mm case with a 47.5 L2L, while the seamaster has a 41mm case and a 47.3 L2L. Just my opinion as a big fan of Omegas!
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