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$10K budget - help a doc pick my first watch

24K views 122 replies 68 participants last post by  vindicate 
#1 ·
I posted this is in another forum, but was advised to post here as well.

Title says it all. Wedding gift from wife. First watch. Looking for something very versatile. I dress in mostly in scrubs daily being a doc. Occasionally, some formal events. Open to purchasing gently used. Work with xrays quite a bit daily and not sure if this will have bearing on the watch. Wrist is about 6.75".

Was looking at the Rolex SD4K. Tried it on in person and liked it.

Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
 
#5 ·
I want something with a date. Also, if going Rolex, I like the SD4K the best. I have tried on a bunch of Rolex watches at the AD. Wife and I liked the SD4K. I liked the DSSD as well as the SD4k - but the DSSD is not really a first and only watch to get IMO as it is kind of chunky. AP had no Daytona hmmm
 
#10 · (Edited)
Rolex Sea Dweller is a completely fine choice and if you and Mrs. already like it then you're sold, why look further? Frankly, a Datejust II in whatever dial type and color you like best is a superbly versatile watch. X-rays are not a problem, but an MRI machine could be. In the case you are around MRI machines, an Omega Globemaster is a good choice (get this gray market for a big savings). AP has high maintenance costs so I wouldn't go used because you could be asking for an MI if there's a problem...

Check out a white dial Breguet Marine 5817 for an alternative that is super classy yet versatile.

For the Milgauss (blue dial--it's so sweet), you'd be surprised. I love having a date on my watch, but when I got one that didn't have a date it turned out that I love that watch, too. The milgauss is a bit special, but don't let that take you from the SD4K if that's what you like. Basically, over here on the autism spectrum club, we're going to give you lots of options--just take it all for what you paid for it and then go with your heart and do whatever your wife suggests.
 
#11 ·
I had Milgauss and Breguet 5718 silver dial. The 5817 stayed twice the time than the Milgauss, it's classic, elegant and versatile. If toughness isn't needed, I'd go 5817 between the two. However, if you care about resale market value, Rolex would be better. On the other hand, you can get a like-new 5817 by half of the MSRP.
 
#12 ·
Well, I'm sure you'll get plenty of great suggestions from the folks here, and truly, the Rolex you like is a perfectly fine one, albeit a bulky choice. I'm going to suggest something with a bit of historical and functional significance: Gallet Multichron Decimal Chronograph.



I'm going to guess you haven't heard much of Gallet, but, having been in constant existence and family owned since the 1400s, they aren't new at all; they just don't actively sell to retail consumers. Since about the 1980s, they have chosen to quietly make watches and movements for their peers in the high end Swiss segment. Make no mistake, however, they have a number of "firsts," under their belt: the first waterproof chronograph wristwatch, the first wristwatch with a 28,800 BPH escapement, first wristwatch with rotating bezel and the first chronograph wristwatch with a 24-hour GMT complication.

The Decimal is a watch they made specifically with doctors in mind. The functionality is likely obsolete for today's tech-endowed doctors, but the watches features work just as effectively now as they did in the 1940s when it was made. What makes it "for doctors?" Its time recording functions are divided into minutes and tenths of minutes.

I'm not going to pretend that finding a pristine model will be easy, but if/when you do, you'll have something truly unique, that is itself a piece of history as well as being made by the world's oldest watch company, and a piece of fine engineering.





As for the price, expect to pay ~$4K - $5K for a pristine example. If you come by a "long in the tooth one, expect to spend about $2K - $4K with Gallet to have it refurbished.

All the best.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Vacheron Constantin Overseas (not the newly announced version) is a great looking high-end watch. And with the introduction of the brand new model, the prices are floating around low 10Ks for the base version.

It's automatic, anti-magnetic and comes from one of the top three manufacturers. I recommend the white dial with stainless steel bracelet. It has a date window too. I took this picture at the VC Istanbul Boutique last week.

Museum
 
#14 ·
For 10K, you can't really go wrong perusing the Rolex/Omega sport models, both new and used.

The Milgauss gets a lot of recommendation due to its roots in the science community (anti magnetism being the key feature). But if the DSSD is what you like then go for it. Let us know what you pick!
 
#17 ·
From your first thread I recommended the AP ROO Diver. You seem to be leaning towards watches with some wrist presence. Those you can pick up used from $12-$15k. I know it's above your budget but it's an AP :)

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He could probably get an earlier diver even less than $12k too.

Rolex would be the defacto watch to go with otherwise; however, are you looking to be different? More sporty? More elegant?

Not to sell, but I do have a GP for sale that is well within your budget and still under warranty. Looking to get rid of fairly quickly and flexible on price.
 
#16 ·
If you and your wife like the Rolex SD4K I wouldn't hesitate to get it. In that price range you won't find a watch that holds it's value any better. It is as durable as anything on the market. It is recognizable to non-watch people. The service that Rolex delivers will best any other brand. The Seadweller looks great from blue jeans to scrubs to dressing up. You would be hard pressed to find a better piece to serve as your "only watch". If the watch you want is the SD4K and it is in your budget, don't settle for less.
 
#34 ·
Totally agree with the above. For what it's worth, I was looking at an SD4k and a VC Overseas, and I went with the SD4k. I'd say that VC is generally thought of as a better brand among those who are into high-end watches, but Rolex will have more broad recognition/appeal. Depends on how you want to go between those, but either would be a great choice. Personally, the VC was a bit flashy for something I was (at the time) looking for to be a daily wearer.

Regardless, very nice wedding gift from the wife -- congrats on the nupitals and the incoming gift whichever route you decide!
 
#18 ·
Thanks for all the input fellas. Would take too long to respond one by one, so I will highlight some points.

Re: breguet 5817 - does it not look a bit dressy?


Re: Gallet Multichron Decimal Chronograph - looks nice, somewhat dressier, but still casual. Where will I find this?

Re: Vacheron Constantin Overseas - I like that one, but very similar to the Rolex style. Does this have a better brand appeal than Rolex?

AP ROO diver - I like the unique looks of these, but I have never tried on in person. May be a bit out of my budget no?

Re looking for: something a little different would be okay. Good balance of sporty vs elegant - I know this is hard and very subjective. Something not too small or substantial. Have a 6.5 - 6.75 in wrist - so thinking 40-42/43 mm max. Open to dial colors, but I think something darker is a bit more versatile.


@Townshend - what is a GP?
 
#42 ·
Re looking for: something a little different would be okay. Good balance of sporty vs elegant - I know this is hard and very subjective. Something not too small or substantial. Have a 6.5 - 6.75 in wrist - so thinking 40-42/43 mm max. Open to dial colors, but I think something darker is a bit more versatile.
A Blancpain FF Bathyscaphe fits your description above. It's definitely a bit different - you won't encounter many others wearing one. It's also anti-magnetic.

Bathyscaphe by Simon S, on Flickr
 
#21 ·
Another vote for the Vacheron. It is going to be sold off at thousands below the RRP, as the new version kicks in. IMHO, I far prefer the older version to the new. It has the anti magnetism , a very distinctive look, particularly in the white, has a (discreet) date etc. A little above budget, but a watch that you can wear happily for the long term.

In answer to your question about brand, Vacheron is in the very top tier of watches. Rolex is arguably in the third tier (second if one is being charitable). They are known for making really good, bulletproof watches. The downside is they are very recognizable (at least it is a down side for me, for others it is a major plus).
 
#22 ·
Another vote for the Vacheron. It is going to be sold off at thousands below the RRP, as the new version kicks in. IMHO, I far prefer the older version to the new. It has the anti magnetism , a very distinctive look, particularly in the white, has a (discreet) date etc. A little above budget, but a watch that you can wear happily for the long term.

In answer to your question about brand, Vacheron is in the very top tier of watches. Rolex is arguably in the third tier (second if one is being charitable). They are known for making really good, bulletproof watches. The downside is they are very recognizable (at least it is a down side for me, for others it is a major plus).
Any particular Vacheron model?
 
#28 ·
Well, if you can't settle on a do-it-all watch you could go for a Tudor Black Bay to bang around when needed and then a more casual/dressy watch from JLC or the like. There are lots of new reverso models ( a larger reverso classique; I've always liked the grand taille or duo models, too)and I really like the 39mm black master control date

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#30 ·
Another vote for a Generation 2 VC Overseas, the chronograph model in particular (with large date at 12 o'clock) with whatever dial and strap options appeal to you. Here's VC product page for it with all the options.

I've used Overseas chrono over several years and would recommend one without hesitation. I have the same wrist size as you and find the Overseas chrono to be a perfect size watch, not too big but still with lots of presence and reassuring heft. The finish is superb as one would expect a watch from one of the holy trinity manufacturer and the bracelet is smooth, solid, visually striking and super-comfy. I also love how it flies below the radar for most folks since they've never heard of Vacheron Constantin, so it's perfect for someone who doesn't want to be perceived as trying to make a statement (as often is a case with Rolex watches). The movement is enclosed in an iron Faraday cage making it magnetic-proof and the depth rating for underwater use is 150m.

The rubber strap is by far the most comfortable option and you generally don't have to fuss about trying to avoid scratches and dings on a metal bracelet (although the link shape and brushed finish on the bracelet don't show wear too much). But the bracelet is the best looking in my opinion, the only caveat is that it may or may not be enough to use the included 2/3 link to get the perfect fit - I've had to get a second one to get the exact fit.

VC just launched Generation 3 of the Overseas line so Generation 2 pieces should be available with nice discount, particularly on the secondary market. A used Gen 2 chrono in great condition usually sells for $11k-$14k depending on age and bracelet/strap etc. If you get one at a steep discount (I've seen them for ~10K) you won't have to worry too much about relatively lower resale value of VC vs Rolex, since the price arguably won't dip all that much lower in the next few years (the new gen will take a while to become widely available and will be priced higher).

But, having said all that, you should really get whatever watch appeals to you most. At the end of the day they will all do their job - tell time, but since it's meant to be a cherished lifetime memento and won't need to be sold or "upgraded", get the watch both you and your wife really love, it will eventually be more than just a watch to you two.
 
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