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High-End Watch Collecting: Evolving Thoughts and Values

7K views 68 replies 28 participants last post by  clintfca 
#1 ·
I have participated in the high-end watch collecting hobby for a relatively short period of time; about 10-years now. My collection over the last decade has been comprised of both "sports" watches by Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, IWC, Rolex and Sinn and "dress" watches (not in the strictest sense) by Breguet, Chronoswiss, Glashutte Original, Jacquet Droz, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Patek Philippe. My interest was driven by mechanical fascination of the movements, beautiful hand finishing, complications and the elegant aesthetics. I went through the normal route of adding new brands and complications (e.g. dual time, flyback chronograph, large date, moonphase, power reserve and regulator etc.). I at one point as many as 16-watches at some points in time. This should sound familiar because it is a very typical progression into the world of WIS as a collector.

Over the last decade, my work environment has moved from a formal dress environment (e.g. suit, sports jacket, shirt and tie) to a business casual dress environment. My outside work dress is predominantly casual and involves outdoor and water based activities. I also have had time to experience what I actually wear vs. what I am interested in. concurrently, I have also have experienced the ongoing cost of ownership (e.g. insurance costs, safety deposit box costs and manufacturer's service costs). As a result, I have found that my dressier, more horologically interesting pieces simply don't get worn with any regularity. I have expressed this phenomenon in a few posts over the years. I am not sure whether this phenomenon is unique to me, but I suspect not.

I am very happy with my current trio of sports watches (Audemars Piguet APRO 15400, Blancpain FF Bathyscaphe Chronograph and a Rolex Submariner Date). The attributes in common to all three of these pieces that support their getting worn are: 1) they are somewhat rugged for everyday wear to differing degrees, 2) are water resistant enough to allow for a swim in the summer or when traveling, and 3) have dial lume to tell what time it is in a movie or dark cabin of an airplane and 4) if they contain a complication it needs to be of practical importance. This appears to be a base-line requirement for a watch that gets wrist time. Any new watch that I buy needs to meet these basic requirements

My attitudes in this hobby were (note the past tense..:)) very much influenced by an admiration of haute d'horlogerie (high watchmaking) with a some disdain focused on the haute de gamme (high end) brands/watches. Being a WIS watch collector, I understood the difference between the two and placed value on the former and not the later. The later in my mind at the time was fashion or marketing driven and was focused on the uninformed customer. As a result, brands such as Rolex (and others) were never really of interest to me. I viewed Rolex as a monolithic force of high volume manufacturing and masters of consumer marketing with a controlled distribution channel. About two plus years ago when looking for a new, smaller sized dive watch (I had owned an IWC Aquatimer and a Sinn U1 T) I came to the conclusion that a Rolex Submariner Date was a good candidate, so I bought one. Two-years later, to my surprise and delight, I have found it to be a great watch in every respect. I wear it regularly in everyday life as well as scuba!

So with the departure of my Breguet 5177 and Patek 5124, I no longer own a noble metal watch or one that I consider to be a haute d'horlogerie watch. Perhaps the APRO and Blancpain FF border on this in terms of their movements and overall fit and finish. I have been now thinking again about adding a noble metal watch to my stainless steel/ceramic trio that stands a better chance of actually being worn. Again to my surprise, my attention has returned to the haute de gamme giant: Rolex. Five years ago, I suspect this thought would have been heresy to my way of high watchmaking way of thinking.

The new (e.g. last year's Baselworld) Rolex Day-Date 40mm has caught my interest and attention. It has novel, albeit industrially finished movement, is robust enough for daily wear, water resistant to support a swim, and has dial lume to see in dark places. I am strongly thinking of buying a white gold model with either a black, dark rhodium stripe or silver stripe dial. The caliber 3255 really is quite a feat of engineering if you read about it; particularly because it has been reduced to practice in scale of tens of thousands per year. It's funny; 5 years ago this was a watch in my mind for the uninformed watch buyer seeking brand status who did not appreciate high watchmaking. When in the end, I now know it's a fine watch likely more in tune with the practical aspects of my life. I wanted to share my evolving WIS thoughts with the forum.

P.S. I hope I don't get kicked out of this forum for thinking and saying such heretical thoughts…:)



P.P.S. Sorry for writing such a long post. I did not have the time to write a short one!
 
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#2 ·
Great commentary and quite enlightening . . . . I find myself heading in the same direction myself but in a more general sense - less dressy pieces and toward more casual, work horse type watches. My most recent acquisition, an IWC Laureas has surprisingly captured my attention in a way that very few more "upscale" (define that any way you want) watches have . Thx for posting sir, it is a great read!!
 
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#3 ·
Very cool evolution, fun to read. I find my Rolex gets the most wrist time as well because it's such a thoughtless piece, you can really do it all in them without fear of damage.
I'm hoping to convert my dive watch into an IWC at some point but I think our vein of collecting is very similar.
 
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#4 ·
F.P.Journe was asked for a watch recommendation under $10,000.
"Rolex", he said.
The interviewer said "Rolex?!?"
"They're well made, " Mr. Journe replied.

Roger W Smith was asked the same question and gave the same answer. He followed up by talking a bit on how well made a Rolex is.

A Rolex owner has nothing to apologise for, unless he just farted or something.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for sharing your collection evolution Iim7v7im7. I find these types of threads really interesting.
I have read on more than one occasion how people have owned, or still own, all sorts of high end pieces and end up wearing mostly Rolexes.
You see how pieces to get traded to fund more and more expensive purchases. For dress watches this might end in a complicated Patek or something from an independent brand. For sports watch fans maybe it ends in an AP or RM. However if people decide to go cheaper after this, it is often a return to Rolex.
 
#17 ·
I've always said that Rolex was the only watch company that is equally appreciated by people who know nothing about watches and those that know everything.

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+1
Though Rolex pieces do not hold a strong seduction on me, their overall business is just admirable. Estimated ~ $5B USD annual revenue. Estimated ~ $1.5B USD in annual operating profit. (source: Forbes) A top 10 worldwide brand. I suspect they could buy other watch brands easily but it's not their game.

Anyways back to the OP: sporty/casual wearable watches are like comfort food. I wear my little Speedy more often than my HEW pieces. And with a small child who loves water, I suspect I will travel a path similar to the OP. Though the complications & refinement of the HEW pieces hold much more charm to me and I don't currently imagine that I'll stop buying complicated non-sports watches.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for sharing your valuable thoughts. I can perfectly relate to you on this. To me and many from my observation, the wrist time is one of if not the most significant value (to its owner) indicator. In this sense, wearability and versatility are the 2 predominant qualities for watch to "hold value". Those just happen to be what Rolex watches are good at.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I've not been in this game for too long (6 or so years) but I can certainly relate to much of what you say. It's amazing how one's perception of Rolex changes over time. My BLNR probably gets the most wrist time out of my small collection purely for its robustness, comfort and looks.
 
#9 · (Edited)
What makes Rolex so hard to see clearly is not its strangeness but its usualness. Familiarity can breed not only contempt, but also blindness.
― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values (adapted)

What else is there to say? Rolex make damn good watches that are qutie simply a joy to own and wear day in and day out. Period Fairly well without exception, each of their watches is everything a watch needs to be and nothing it does not need to be. They are insanely compelling products and the sooner one accepts that reality the better, not just for Rolex, but also for the sake of their collecting. Truly, it marks the turn to horological independence. Congratulations.

All the best.

When in the course of watch collecting, it eventually becomes necessary for one to dispense with the preconceived notions which have separated them from the ineschewable, it becomes incumbent upon them to assume among the powers of the earth, the separate and equal station to which the laws of common sense entitle them, a decent respect for among the most self evident truths of horology requires that they should declare the causes which impel them to buy yet another Rolex.
-- Thomas Jefferson, "Declaration of Independence" (adapted)
 
#10 ·
I once told a JLC sales that I will never buy a Rolex. A year later I found myself buying a Milgauss... what can I say..
 
#11 ·
Since I have not been ex-communicated from the high-end forum, I would now ask between the black dial, dark rhodium stripe dial and silver stripe dial, do you prefer one these dials in WG?

 
#16 ·
Since I have not been ex-communicated from the high-end forum, I would now ask between the black dial, dark rhodium stripe dial and silver stripe dial, do you prefer one these dials in WG?

Red: LOL

Blue:
I like the grey one best. Mind you, it's far from a strong preference. I just know that I have several black and several white/silver dial watches and few straight-up gray ones.

I suspect that were I just Jonesing for a Day-Date and the store had either of the other two in stock, I'd go home with one of them, such being the nature of my preference for instant gratification once I commit to buying a new watch and I make the trip to the store to make a purchase.

All the best.
 
#19 ·
= light silver stripe

This is purely a matter of tastes and, therefore, very personal; in other words, your opinion matters, not mine.

That said, based solely on pictures, I'd have a hard time choosing between the light pinstripe and the dark rhodium dial. I'd definitely have to seem them in the flesh before making a decision, too.
= dark rhodium or silver stripe (see how deep the water is before diving)

Light pinstripe for me, I also like the new cross hatch dials
= silver stripe

Hard without being able to see the actual dials (I have not) but one of the pin stripes would be the one for me . . .
= dark rhodium or silver stripe

Red: LOL

Blue:
I like the grey one best. Mind you, it's far from a strong preference. I just know that I have several black and several white/silver dial watches and few straight-up gray ones.

I suspect that were I just Jonesing for a Day-Date and the store had either of the other two in stock, I'd go home with one of them, such being the nature of my preference for instant gratification once I commit to buying a new watch and I make the trip to the store to make a purchase.

All the best.
= dark rhodium stripe

I like the grey - dark rhodium stripe.
= dark rhodium stripe

So no one is in favor of a black dial so far. I have two black dialed and one silver dialed sports watches. Another black dial would make a third. Alternatively, the silver dial would split the four watches between the two dial colors. The dark rhodium stripe dial looks cool in some photos and illegible in others. I need to see it in person.

I will see if I can find a place that has some of these before moving ahead.

 
#13 ·
This is purely a matter of tastes and, therefore, very personal; in other words, your opinion matters, not mine.

That said, based solely on pictures, I'd have a hard time choosing between the light pinstripe and the dark rhodium dial. I'd definitely have to seem them in the flesh before making a decision, too.
 
#21 ·
The dark rhodium looks to have clearer index markers than the silver stripe, but from your pictures the hands are harder to make out. Would definitely need to see them both in the metal before making a decision, preferably in a few different lighting conditions too.

I would personally lean towards the dark rhodium, although the contrasting white day wheel is somewhat off putting.
 
#23 ·
Yes, I truly need to see them in the metal...

These are the current 5 dial options for WG Day-Date 40mm. It near impossible to tell what they really look like from these catalog illustrations. The Roman numeral chapter ring models are handsome, but are not lumed. The blue dial is beautiful. I owned a blue dialed Yachtmaster some years back and while stunning it became a bit of a novelty to me. They of course offer dials with diamond markers or bezels are way too "bling" for me. My sense is that the Dark Rhodium Stripe may be difficultto read (too be determined). But I will go check it out. The silver leans dressier and is similar to the APRO in color. The day and date windows stand out the least on the silver dials as well. The black is sportier and is similar to the BP and Sub Date.

 
#25 ·
Yes, I truly need to see them in the metal...

These are the current 5 dial options for WG Day-Date 40mm. It near impossible to tell what they really look like from these catalog illustrations. The Roman numeral chapter ring models are handsome, but are not lumed. The blue dial is beautiful. I owned a blue dialed Yachtmaster some years back and while stunning it became a bit of a novelty to me. They of course offer dials with diamond markers or bezels are way too "bling" for me. My sense is that the Dark Rhodium Stripe may be difficult to read (to be determined). But I will go check it out. The silver leans dressier and is similar to the APRO in color. The day and date windows stand out the least on the silver dials as well. The black is sportier and is similar to the BP and Sub Date. [pics deleted]
I can tell that you already know what your next step is....let us know what you find out and decide. Have fun shopping/road testing.

All the best.
 
#26 · (Edited)
I think that you may have misread the situation.

We're dealing with uncertainty in choice of specific dials due to lack of direct examination. I have seen and tried on other DD40's. I really like the watch. They are not inventoried more than a few per store near me, due to newness and inventory costs (they had 3, plus a bunch of DD 36mm and DD IIs) so into NYC I need to go.

Regarding the Omega AT, they are not made in WG only available in yellow or rose gold. They do have a very expensive platinum Seamaster 300, but it is really a dive watch. Rolex differentiates the DD 40mm by it only being offered in all 4 noble metals, has new high tech/accuracy movement and ceramic insert bracelet links.

See what I mean regarding the dark rhodium? What color is it really? Fifty Shades of Grey...



Since you seem to not be in love with any of them, have you considered any other watches for the same duty? The Omega Aqua Terra, for instance?

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#27 ·
Sorry about my misinterpreting of your feelings about this watch.

If that gray (rhodium) looks anything like my steel Bathyscaphe Chronograph's face, it would be my choice. I love how it morphs into differing colors depending on the lighting.

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#28 ·
No apology is necessary...:)

Sorry about my misinterpreting of your feelings about this watch.

If that gray (rhodium) looks anything like my steel Bathyscaphe Chronograph's face, it would be my choice. I love how it morphs into differing colors depending on the lighting.

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#29 ·
I would say the dark rhodium, it is very nice and the pinstripes set it off.

Now that you have developed an appreciation for Rolex, I am afraid the next step down the rabbit hole would be vintage Rolex. I started out much like you with a moderate disdain for the brand, learned to love them for what the were, and now vintage Rolex/Tudor makes up about half of my 30 watch collection. Why have a new Seadweller, when you can have a gorgeous double red seadweller that albiet a little rougher and aged, that has more of a connoisseur ring to it and if well taken care of has the water resistance and other qualities of a new one.
 
#31 ·
Great thread, Bob. I always enjoy your approach to collecting. I haven't had a good look at this model in person, but from photos I really like the dark grey dial with pinstripes. A versatile color that appears more unique than silver or black, in my opinion. It looks nice with the textured dial.

It will be interesting to hear your thoughts once you get to try them in the metal.

-Chris
 
#32 · (Edited)
I visited NYC today and hit Rolex Boutique (Wempe), Tourneau Timemachine and Wempe and was able to see four out of the five white gold dial options: 1) blue, 2) dark rhodium stripe, 3) silver quadrant and 4) silver stripe dials. No one had the black dial in white gold but they did in yellow gold with a black diagonal dial.

In real life, the dark rhodium stripe dial is difficult to read depending on the lighting. The polished warm of the white gold hands just seem to blend into the warmth of the dark rhodium stripe dial. The silver stripe dial is both elegant and highly legible at a glance. Additionally the day and date windows blend into the dial and don't stand out as much.



A couple surprises. The blue dial is quite difficult to read and again the silver quadrant is quite legible. The black diagonal dial is legible but the polished white gold hands begin to reflect the dark background of the dial. It is more legible than the blue because the lumed hands and stick markers stand out.



Here are the same two watches from the first photo flipped onto its side (lower lighting).



Decision made...
 
#37 ·
I certainly could 1) if I didn't adore the one I chose 2) was willing to wait 6-9 months from now to receive the watch and 3) was willing to ignore the significant price consideration being afforded me at the moment that may or may not still exist for a new release.
 
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