Honestly, the hidden beauty from in-house movement has been fascinating for a long time. And, as a gift for myself for huge milestone in this year, I consider purchasing 1 high-end watch. 10 years ago, I really loved partial skeletonized watch, that's the reason why I chose Zenith Power Reserve. As time goes by, my love for Zenith is still there, but I want something that can easily hide underneath my cuff while reveals its charm in some occasion only. That's the reason I come with 2 masterpiece:
A Lange & Sohne: Saxonia
Ref: 219.026 White Gold - Manual Winding
FP Journe Chronometre Bleu
I haven't made final decision yet and hope that some posts in this decent place can help to give me some other perspectives... Moreover, is there any model that suits as dress watch with budget under 20k?
Two amazing watches for sure. I would say the Journe is more quirky and less formal, and therefore may be more versatile but arguably not as well suited for more formal occasions. The ALS is a classic, and extremely subdued. You might also consider the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle, which is similar to the ALS but (IMO) with a bit more individuality.
I went with the FP Journe and I'm very happy I did. The dial is amazing, very classic and so versatile. Yet there is life in the deep blue, never showy, but alive. It's special and the movement is poetry in rose gold.
As I notice in FP Journe Chronometre Bleu picture, the color of dial is changing vastly due to different light reflection. It makes me wonder about the dial material, does it have any special coating or post-processing treatment?
Two amazing watches for sure. I would say the Journe is more quirky and less formal, and therefore may be more versatile but arguably not as well suited for more formal occasions. The ALS is a classic, and extremely subdued. You might also consider the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle, which is similar to the ALS but (IMO) with a bit more individuality.
I went with the FP Journe and I'm very happy I did. The dial is amazing, very classic and so versatile. Yet there is life in the deep blue, never showy, but alive. It's special and the movement is poetry in rose gold.
ajack - of the two mentioned, my preference would be for the Journe. As beautifully finished as the Saxonia is, the Journe has a bit more character. However I do love a lot of Lange's offerings, particularly the Richard Lange but it is not the most elegant and may push the budget. You might want to consider the 1815 up/down, that is a beautiful watch, not overly thick, its formal but still relatively versatile. Although again, it may be outside of the budget.
As spangles and mlcor mentioned, the VC traditionnelle small seconds is also a nice option. A beautifully finished movement, a well balanced dial, it wears very elegantly and is within budget.
An Urban Jurgensen is a bit more off the beaten path. Whilst retail prices are above budget, you might be able to find a gently used or old stock piece under $20k. I have not handled any personally but from what I gather, the movements are very finely finished and they have a very Voutilainen-like design (he worked there).
(pics from the Martin Pulli website)
I am also looking for something more formal for my next watch so have been considering the above a well as various others.
ajack - of the two mentioned, my preference would be for the Journe. As beautifully finished as the Saxonia is, the Journe has a bit more character. However I do love a lot of Lange's offerings, particularly the Richard Lange but it is not the most elegant and may push the budget. You might want to consider the 1815 up/down, that is a beautiful watch, not overly thick, its formal but still relatively versatile. Although again, it may be outside of the budget.
As spangles and mlcor mentioned, the VC traditionnelle small seconds is also a nice option. A beautifully finished movement, a well balanced dial, it wears very elegantly and is within budget.
An Urban Jurgensen is a bit more off the beaten path. Whilst retail prices are above budget, you might be able to find a gently used or old stock piece under $20k. I have not handled any personally but from what I gather, the movements are very finely finished and they have a very Voutilainen-like design (he worked there).
I am also looking for something more formal for my next watch so have been considering the above a well as various others.
Thanks so much for your suggestion. I'm so fascinated by Urban Jurgensen as well and found the design quite distinctive! Your comments made me quite confused how I can never knew about this brand before...
Sorry for my obtuseness, what I understood is the FPJ Bleu has been crafted with many layers, thus, different view angle or light source can cause various shades of blue?
FP Journe has a more unique feel to it (seconds on the 7.5 o'clock, blue dial, minute/hour hand, font) where as the ALS is somewhat common like Patek Calatrava. Both are excellent by no mean, but I like FP more
After reading many comments so far, I'm currently more biased towards FPJ Bleu...
Moreover, I must admit that my current dilema is the effect of long time expose to WIS and hodinkee articles!
Nope, I really appreciated your comments anyway!
I did also considered VC, but, honestly, my intuition told me not to go with this one. I do understand that all my attempts tried to be rational. But, in the end, horology, or any my other hobbies, is just meant to be fulfill my selfish desires...
I went with the FP Journe and I'm very happy I did. The dial is amazing, very classic and so versatile. Yet there is life in the deep blue, never showy, but alive. It's special and the movement is poetry in rose gold.
As I notice in FP Journe Chronometre Bleu picture, the color of dial is changing vastly due to different light reflection. It makes me wonder about the dial material, does it have any special coating or post-processing treatment?
FP Journe has a more unique feel to it (seconds on the 7.5 o'clock, blue dial, minute/hour hand, font) where as the ALS is somewhat common like Patek Calatrava. Both are excellent by no mean, but I like FP more
My vote goes to what i think is the most beautiful formal/dress watch at the moment (love the big date)...
The new ALS Saxonia Moonphase in either platinum or yellow gold...
The FP Journe is an amazing piece as well, never had the chance but personally cant wait to try it, definetely more versatile than Saxonia with a more sporty character from the 2 from a respected watchmaker in the WIS community.
In the end it really depends on your way of life and what you need but, you cant go wrong with whatever you decide to buy.
Two of my fav brands and models! Grats on your achievements and my vote would go to FPJ is your life style and collection needs more casual and sporty piece and ALS Saxonia if you wear suit most of the time.
Excellent choices to decide between. Since you asked, the VC Patrimony Traditionelle Small Seconds fits your budget and is an alternative with similar (yet very different) styling to the Saxonia:
The Saxonia is a purposeful dress watch, whereas the CB is a more versatile timepiece. It really depends on what you want, a pure dress watch? or an all-rounder?
The Bleu's dial is polished to a mirror finish after which micron thin layers of paint are added till the desired hue is achieved. Finally, 7 layers of lacquer before the numerals are printed around 6 times over to get a bombe look. Due to the process, each spec of error is highly magnified causing a quality pass rate of only around 30%. It's their most expensive dial to make due to the amount that get thrown out. Good news is 30% is far better than the 10% they started with. Not to mention the case that takes 5x longer to make than platinum
As a long time lurker in mainly High-end Watch forum, I can easily tell that you would have huge knowledge regarding to FPJ!
After see your post about Bleu dial finishing, I really wonder about the manufacturing process, which can be summarized as below:
[Polish] => [Micron-layer paint] => [7 layers lacquer] => [Quality Control]
I was really surprised about this elaborate processing... Honestly, I'm now more biased towards FPJ, but the real problems is finding the reseller...
Bleu all the way if for nothing else that terribly gorgeous dial. My one minor quibble with the Bleu, though, is the smaller "7" and "8" numerals due to the placement of the subsidiary seconds hand, but that's a quibble I can definitely live with.
If must choose between the two I vote for FPJ for it's amazing dial and this FPJ... magic. However if you're looking for a formal dress watch and ALS is your preferred brand - try a 1815 or Richard Lange. I myself bought VC patrimony but if I had enough funds I'd buy both Bleu and ALS 1815 Up/Down. As for Saxonia... let's face it - it is a low-end offer from ALS, not superlative to its direct competitors in any way, lacks a strong personality... to me it's like buying A-Classe..
If must choose between the two I vote for FPJ for it's amazing dial and this FPJ... magic. However if you're looking for a formal dress watch and ALS is your preferred brand - try a 1815 or Richard Lange. I myself bought VC patrimony but if I had enough funds I'd buy both Bleu and ALS 1815 Up/Down. As for Saxonia... let's face it - it is a low-end offer from ALS, not superlative to its direct competitors in any way, lacks a strong personality... to me it's like buying A-Classe..
I would go for the ALS. The Saxonia may be the "entry level" line of ALS but I think it's one of their best. The 1815 only starts to grab me in its chronometer version, and I'm just not a fan of thr Richard Lange. The Saxonia is sublime, especially the Saxonia Thin. But the previous version, not the current one.
The color of the FP Journe's dial is the only thing I really like about it.
Of course if you don't want to take a bath (if you ever decide to sell the chosen piece) then you could get a used Patek 5196?
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