Review of Tourbillon in 2012: Christophe Claret, Cecil Purnell, Speake-Marin and Chanel

[Xavier Fanning]

In the world of luxury watches, the Tourbillon is the apex of style and finesse. Intricate, beautiful and difficult to produce, Tourbillon have been popular since their invention by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1776. Tourbillons from that era are collector’s items, but so are the Tourbillons being produced by master watch makers today.

2012 may not be as exciting a year for Tourbillon since 1776, but it marks a definite turnaround from the last few years of economic slowdown. Several brands are starting to take bold steps in new product development, rather than simply revising old models to play it safe. This level of innovation hasn’t been seen for nearly 5 years, and 2012 has seen the launch of some truly exquisite watches.

Some key independent names to note this year are Cecil Purnell, Speake-Marin and Christophe Claret. Representing the larger companies, Chanel had a strong offering with their Premiere Tourbillon. It is resplendent with jewels and the case literally glimmers. Some collectors are sure to find it crass and over the top though, not to mention the fact that it is a carousel, which many dispute as belonging to Haute Horlogerie Tourbillons in the first place.

In the independents, Claret’s brilliant X-Trem-1 Tourbillon was a beacon of light and Speake-Marin had a strong offering as usual with his new Renaissance Tourbillon. While they brought much to the Palace at Baselworld 2012, the biggest winner this year is probably Cecil Purnell, based on the scope and overall quality of its new collection.

Cecil Purnell's most notable execution is the Passage De L’Heure, or the V13 calibre. The watch is intriguing in that it measures not only hours themselves, but uses a customisable chime to measure the passage of the hours. Cecil Purnell has opted for a semi-skeleton presentation to show the intricate detailing on the movement and its working. This gives the viewer a glimpse into what makes this Tourbillon unique – the distinctive placement of the hammer and resonance rod on the dial. This placement enhances the visual effect of the piece and draws attention to the beauty of the inner mechanics.

So is 2012 the best year for Tourbillon in recent memory? I would say yes. It is unusual to have such a variety of beautiful Tourbillons launched in one year. They range from very modern takes on the format to more traditional offerings. What they all represent, ultimately, is a new age in the illustrious history of this movement.

[stuffler,mike]

Post moved.

[ZachB]

So is 2012 the best year for Tourbillon in recent memory?

I think it depends on the perspective. If you are a collector, then the answer is probably yes. As more and more tourbillons are produced, they may at some point become somewhat "affordable" to the average collector. If you're a watchmaker that relied on the elevated status you'd obtain from making a tourbillon, you may not be happy about the many different tourbillons that are hitting the streets as the market may get a bit watered down. Some of those makers may have to start working on other complications such as repeaters (I think Cecil Purnell either just released one or has it on the way). Considering most of us are average collectors that can't afford a 6-figure timepiece and enjoy seeing new releases, overall it's been a great year.

[PaddyB]

Representing the larger companies, Chanel had a strong offering with their Premiere Tourbillon. It is resplendent with jewels and the case literally glimmers. Some collectors are sure to find it crass and over the top though, not to mention the fact that it is a carousel, which many dispute as belonging to Haute Horlogerie Tourbillons in the first place."

I just can not warm to the Premiere Tourbillon.

I have to say that I do like what I'm seeing from CC these days though...

[Xavier Fanning]

I think it depends on the perspective. If you are a collector, then the answer is probably yes. As more and more tourbillons are produced, they may at some point become somewhat "affordable" to the average collector. If you're a watchmaker that relied on the elevated status you'd obtain from making a tourbillon, you may not be happy about the many different tourbillons that are hitting the streets as the market may get a bit watered down. Some of those makers may have to start working on other complications such as repeaters (I think Cecil Purnell either just released one or has it on the way). Considering most of us are average collectors that can't afford a 6-figure timepiece and enjoy seeing new releases, overall it's been a great year.

Thanks for the feedback Zach - I mainly agree, though I think more Tourbillons on the market doesn't necessarily mean watering down - it could have the opposite effect of enhancing the desirability of Tourbillon brands that offer something a bit extra, whether it's provenance or a new innovations. But as you say, a great year for average collectors... and I guess every year is a great year for someone who can afford a 6 figure timepiece :-P

[Xavier Fanning]

I just can not warm to the Premiere Tourbillon.

I have to say that I do like what I'm seeing from CC these days though...

Hi PaddyB - yes I think the Premiere is a bit gaudy, it lacks the finesse that you get with the smaller brands, especially Speake-Marin or Cecil Purnell. The key for me for any watch is its finesse - cover anything in shimmering jewels and it will appeal to less experienced collectors (the easy route basically) - I suspect the Premiere was made with extremely wealthy collectors in the developing world in mind...

[PaddyB]

Hi PaddyB - yes I think the Premiere is a bit gaudy, it lacks the finesse that you get with the smaller brands, especially Speake-Marin or Cecil Purnell. The key for me for any watch is its finesse - cover anything in shimmering jewels and it will appeal to less experienced collectors (the easy route basically) - I suspect the Premiere was made with extremely wealthy collectors in the developing world in mind...

My thoughts exactly! I've just been checking out Cecil Purnell's Passage De L’Heure; a much more elegant piece.

[Xavier Fanning]

My thoughts exactly! I've just been checking out Cecil Purnell's Passage De L’Heure; a much more elegant piece.

What is your opinion on Harry Winston's new watches, i.e Historie de Tourbillon series? I'm not sure how I feel about them - the Historie 2 looks like a sci-fi robot and the 3 is just ugly. I do like other pieces in the collection, but I think it's an example of making the Tourbillon a bit too modern for its own good.

[PaddyB]

What is your opinion on Harry Winston's new watches, i.e Historie de Tourbillon series? I'm not sure how I feel about them - the Historie 2 looks like a sci-fi robot and the 3 is just ugly. I do like other pieces in the collection, but I think it's an example of making the Tourbillon a bit too modern for its own good.

It's certainly pretty 'space age', but something about it appeals to me. The Tourbillon has a rich history, but it also has to move with the times to a certain degree. I have nothing against modernisation and a futuristic aspect, as long as it's done with class and sophistication.

[Xavier Fanning]

It's certainly pretty 'space age', but something about it appeals to me. The Tourbillon has a rich history, but it also has to move with the times to a certain degree. I have nothing against modernisation and a futuristic aspect, as long as it's done with class and sophistication.

I think it's a fine line - for me the Historie 3 goes too far - Historie 2 is ok. Cecil Purnell's Hamberge I think does a good job and isn't too expensive, also the Claret X-Trem 1 really takes the 'space age' idea as far as it can go but still looks sophisticated.

At the end of the day it's a question of sticking to core values I think.