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Smallish suggestions?

709 views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  Romulux 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

In need of your advice!

I have been dabbling in the $2-3K pre-owned bracket for a bit and feel that my next and last watch for a long time ought to be more interesting in terms of history and/or complications.

Strict criteria:

  • $15K or less, pre-owned or vintage, in mint to excellent condition
  • 33-36mm across
  • 44mm or less lug tip to lug tip
  • 10mm or less in thickness
  • No date window
  • Enough water resistance to withstand the magnificent downpours and awful humidity here - 50m to be safe?
  • Robust enough to withstand frequent wear

Moonphase and bracelet would be icing on the cake, i.e. bonus, not a must. $15K is the hard limit, and I'd prefer to spend less.

Poking around old listings turned up some day-date moonphases and perpetual/annual/triple calendars from the 80s and 90s, e.g. IWC Romana 2050, AP RO 25594, VC Triple Calendar 47050. Less expensive and fragile than vintage and produced before the price hikes and diameter explosion, could the period be a sweet spot for me? Were any outstanding or significant calibres or pieces made back then?

One of the pre-owned options that has caught my eye is a ladies' AP RO perpetual calendar from the late 90s, which obviously hasn't been the hottest topic. It houses the cal. 2141/2806 and measures 33mm wide, 10mm thick. Any thoughts on the movement? Would it wear too tall and beefy, robbing the RO of its elegance? Would a perpetual calendar be a pain to set and maintain? On the vintage side, I have been contemplating a UG Tri-Compax. But, prices keep climbing, and I'm not sure whether they will stay up there forever.

Thanks for the input and recommendations!
 
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#2 ·
Sadly it does not fit in the thickness criteria (11.3mm), but otherwise Rolex Explorer I 114270 model seems to be a good choice for you.

Case 36mm, pretty sure lug is less than 44mm wide, no date window, water resistance up to 100m, very robust for daily wear, used ones in excellent conditions cost around $5k.

Image from google

Watch Analog watch Watch accessory Fashion accessory Jewellery
 
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#8 ·
Sadly it does not fit in the thickness criteria (11.3mm), but otherwise Rolex Explorer I 114270 model seems to be a good choice for you.

Case 36mm, pretty sure lug is less than 44mm wide, no date window, water resistance up to 100m, very robust for daily wear, used ones in excellent conditions cost around $5k.

Image from google

View attachment 6962266
I was just getting my hands on this piece yesterday at an AD. I can't get over how the minutes hand came short of the markers, and the overly large Rolex logo and letters compared to my Submariner.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the recommendation, humanalien. My experience with a similar piece - the 36mm Omega Railmaster - has led me to believe that a dressier or more feminine piece would get more wrist-time. I have an AT - modern, simple, sporty and affordable - and would like to add something different.
 
#4 · (Edited)
My suggestion, largely because it is a nobrainer for me to suggest, is the watch I have that fits your requirements: Patek Philippe 3520 (33mm). The 5120 is essentially the same watch, although it's a couple millimeters larger and automatic. Otherwise, they look alike.

Patek 5120 in white gold: $14.5K



A 3520 will run you about $10K to $12K. (You'll find plenty of reputable sellers of them if you click on the link.)



Either one is an excellent choice. Back in the early '90s when I first got it, I wore my 3520 mounted on a grosgrain band to dress it down and make it less "posh" looking for daily wear. I put the skin strap back on for dressier occasions. Once I "got over" wearing it "for everything," I just left the skin strap (black) on. These days, I wear it that way only on dressy occasions (whenever I'm wearing a dark suit, dinner jacket or dressier attire that I feel also calls for a white French cuffed shirt). For me, that amounts, now that I have several other equally dressy watches, about half a dozen to ten times a year.

All the best.
 
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#5 ·
JLC ladies' watch line has a number of great pieces which fit the spirit of your criteria.

Look at Ladies Reversos and then, look at the Rendez Vous line, which look fantastic.
They have an attractive night-day complication and you can get a mother of pearl dial which looks amazing in person.

You only need 3bar water resistance for even heavy rain. It's the leather strap which will go in repeated rains. You can get the Reverso or Rendez-vous with a bracelet and still meet your budget.

Amazing advice? That's The Spangles Way
 
#6 ·
JLC ladies' watch line has a number of great pieces which fit the spirit of your criteria.

Look at Ladies Reversos and then, look at the Rendez Vous line, which look fantastic.
They have an attractive night-day complication and you can get a mother of pearl dial which looks amazing in person.

You only need 3bar water resistance for even heavy rain. It's the leather strap which will go in repeated rains. You can get the Reverso or Rendez-vous with a bracelet and still meet your budget.

Amazing advice? That's The Spangles Way
Following on with that line, the ladies line of several makers may well have very viable options that differ from the men's line model only in size.

Additionally, Rolex's midsize models will also fit the bill. An Oyster Perpetual or Air King will hit every one of the requirements. FWIW, my Air King was my daily wearer for about five years. The PP 3520 was for a short while. My Constellation Manhattan has been ever since. You will have to check Omega's site for the size of the current model. Mine is the prior version and it too will fit all the requirements you identified. Except for the Rolexes, all the watches I've suggested are well below 10mm thick.

Lastly, Piaget's Altiplano line has a 34mm version that lists at $14.5K. It's an ultra-thin watch. The 38mm version lists at $15.2K.



All the best.
 
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