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Yellow Gold Business Dress Watch Options

2K views 17 replies 12 participants last post by  exxtinguishable 
#1 ·
Hi all - I am looking for a yellow gold business dress watch with the following characteristics (all characteristics are non-negotiable unless otherwise noted):

Case:
Yellow Gold
Shape - round
Diameter 37mm -40mm
Thickness 10.6 mm or less, ~8mm preferred
Leather strap
Prefer a tang buckle, but this is only a moderate preference

Dial
Color White (strong preference), silver could work
Prefer texture, i.e., rather not have a flat stamped or painted
Date - I prefer a date, yes, I know that this knocks it out of the traditional dress watch category, but I find a date on a watch quite useful daily.

Movement
Mechanical - auto or hand wind are both fine.

Hands
Prefer color to match the case material, but other options could be considered
Shape not that important
Second hand is a strong preference, but main or sub dial makes no difference to me

I have done a good bit of research and noted the following. Brands that have attractive watches but do not offer them in yellow gold, therefore disqualifying them in my search include:
A. Lange & Sohne
Audemars Piguet
Baume & Mercier
Blancpain
Girard Perigeaux
IWC
Jaeger LeCoultre
Rolex Cellini
Vacheron Constitine
Zenith

Brands that did nothing for me even though they may have a Yellow Gold offering:
Breuguet
Cartier
Longines
Montblanc

Watches that I found that are in the running include (in order of preference):
Omega Tressor 432.53.40.21.02.001. The only ding on this watch is the thickness is over 10mm at 10.6mm. I would really like to be in the 8mm range.
Patek Calatrava 5227. Not a huge fan of the cream dial or the back dust cover which adds thickness.
Patek Calatrava 5119. Lacks a date, otherwise perfect.

My question for the group is what am I missing that would fit my criteria, knowing that yellow gold is simply a requirement. Let's put a cap of $30K on this, although I would prefer to stay at or very near to $20K or less. I appreciate your input in this matter.
 
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#6 ·
#7 ·
Lange does make some yellow gold pieces, but they may not tick all your boxes. This 1815 doesn't have a date, but otherwise fits your needs:

A. Lange and Sohne 1815 Silver Dial 18K Yellow Gold Men's Watch 235.021 - A. Lange & Sohne - Shop Watches by Brand - Jomashop

The Lange 1 and Grand Lange 1 are also available in yellow gold, although the design isn't to everyone's tastes (although I wouldn't mind having one).
I missed that one in their site. Thanks for pointing it out.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I really like the checkerboard layout, but am not a big fan of the racetrack with the Roman numbers or the blue hands, although the blue hands look better on this watch than most.

Is that a tooling mark on the race track between 12 & 1? I see it on all the pics, so it must be a standard feature, but what is it?
 
#13 · (Edited)
Patek Philippe have lots of options yellow gold, but that meets all the requirements, only one I know of, the 5153.





Piaget offers the Altiplano, which lacks a date and texture but is 6mm thin.



As for what you are missing, I suggest you check out the perimeter brands listed here: https://www.hautehorlogerie.org/en/brands/ .

I also suggest you reach out to the makers that appeal to you and ask them if they'll slap a different dial inside of one of their existing yellow gold models. For example, Piaget offers a lovely guilloche dial on the platinum version of their Altiplano ($30K). I'm certain they can stick that dial inside the yellow gold one and put yellow gold batons on it. For that sort of request, all you really need is for the maker to have a dial, case and hands that you like. Aesthetic details are among the easiest to alter. You are, after all, seeking to buy a watch from a watchmaker, not a watch assembler. If you see something you like, the only real question is (1) whether they are willing to take your order, and (2) how much they'd charge you for a custom order. It's certainly not about whether they have the ability to do it.



One other thing...you should definitely make a point of seeing various rose/pink gold watches in person. Different makers use different amounts of copper to effect the rosy hue. (Yellow gold generally also has copper in it, just not as much as rose gold.) Some of them don't in person look all that rosy at all, at least not to me, some, however, look downright salmon colored. In any case, don't rely solely on photos for the actual color.

All the best.
 
#17 ·
Patek Philippe have lots of options yellow gold, but that meets all the requirements, only one I know of, the 5153.





Piaget offers the Altiplano, which lacks a date and texture but is 6mm thin.



As for what you are missing, I suggest you check out the perimeter brands listed here: https://www.hautehorlogerie.org/en/brands/ .

I also suggest you reach out to the makers that appeal to you and ask them if they'll slap a different dial inside of one of their existing yellow gold models. For example, Piaget offers a lovely guilloche dial on the white gold version of their Altiplano. I'm certain they can stick that dial inside the yellow gold one and put yellow gold batons on it. For that sort of request, all you really need is for the maker to have a dial, case and hands that you like. Aesthetic details are among the easiest to alter. You are, after all, seeking to buy a watch from a watchmaker, not a watch assembler. If you see something you like, the only real question is (1) whether they are willing to take your order, and (2) how much they'd charge you for a custom order. It's certainly not about whether they have the ability to do it.



One other thing...you should definitely make a point of seeing various rose/pink gold watches in person. Different makers use different amounts of copper to effect the rosy hue. (Yellow gold generally also has copper in it, just not as much as rose gold.) Some of them don't in person look all that rosy at all, at least not to me, some, however, look downright salmon colored. In any case, don't rely solely on photos for the actual color.

All the best.
Another vote goes to taking a look at Piaget.
 
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