All right, I'm the guy who got my bezel lined up, and I've felt terrible about it ever since.
So Thursday (during work? What makes you think that?) I started to think about the math. Assuming it's 11.5 minutes of advance on the inner bezel for every complete revolution of the outer bezel, then it's a matter of calculating the lowest common denominator between 11.5 and 60; because the rotation includes a half-minute, we have 120 half-minute possibilities of alignment, thus 120 possible positions, thus 120 possible rotations, but that's just 60 in one direction and 60 in the other.
The math continues with the 13.25 as our Point of Alignment: move forward 11.5 minutes 120 times until you're back around at 13.25, and each one of those times counts as one revolution. Then you sort the list based on time (instead of rotation), and voila!
As a worst-case scenario: if your 10 is lined up on the 43.25 minute-mark, it's going to be a long evening.
Then it's just a matter of figuring out, based on where your Rotating Red 10 lines up on the minute markers when the outer rotating bezel is squared up over the 60 minute hash mark, how many turns out of that 60 possible rotations it will take you - and in which direction - to line it up.
That's assuming that it is, in fact, gaining 11.5 minutes for every rotation of the outer bezel. If it's not 11.5, then we have to start again from scratch.
So here's a chart; it was getting pretty long so I split it a bit past half-way and continued it on the right. The rules are: line up your GITD dot over the 60 minute hash mark (helpful hint: set your display to Chrono; with the second hand pointing at the 12, you've got a sighting line). Read - to within 1/4 minute - where your RotatingRed10 is situated. Check the column on the left in the chart and find the corresponding time, and then rotate your bezel CounterClockwise the indicated number of times (center column) or Clockwise the indicated number of times (right column) to line it up. If your bezel has slop, center the slop over the 12 hash mark. Round up when in doubt. Check it after two rotations to see where you stand. Be Precise.
I can't wait to hear results (it's working for me so far...). Especially from you mathematicians. (Yes, I can hear you chuckling from here.)
My B-1, for reference, is a Pre-SuperQuartz from 2002. Who knows if the ratio remained constant throughout the production life, or if Master Rubik had his way with the gearing at any point.
[You'll note 13.25 requires zero revolutions to align: it's the sweet spot, where - according to Me - the 10 is synchronized.]