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  1. #31
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    Re: Conclusion: Brookstone Winders are Junk

    Quote Originally Posted by Camera Bill View Post
    Received these repair instructions from Brookstone {customercare@brookstone.com.. last year (sorry, this is long).

    Instructions for Changing the Motor or Belt in a Watch Winder
    There are a few things one should consider when preparing to change out a motor or a belt in one’s watch winder.
    1. The process of opening the case may cause damage to the felt linings which we cannot provide.
    2. You will also be removing some black covers over the screws, which we also cannot replace.
    3. If one or more of the winders is not turning, the cause may be a bad motor, a bad band/belt, a bad PCB or a loose connecting cable. Only by opening the case and inspecting the unit in question can you determine which may be the cause, but you still may not be able to determine which one it is for sure, so you may be better off replacing all of these parts to be sure to fix the problem.
    4. Due to the above, if your unit is in warranty, you are better off having it exchanged according to the warranty than trying to repair it yourself.
    5. If your unit is not in warranty, however, please be aware that you may damage the felt lining while removing it, and we cannot provide replacement linings. Even if you manage to remove the lining without damaging it, you may have some difficulty getting it back into place or getting it to adhere properly.


    Items you will need:
    1. #2 Phillips Screwdriver
    2. #1 Phillips Screwdriver
    3. Putty Knife or Large Flathead Screwdriver
    4. Tweezers or Needle-Nose Pliers
    5. Glue (optional) to re-adhere the Felt Linings


    Opening the Case:
    1. Please note that the wooden case is not designed to be opened, therefore you will need to remove the inner lining in order to access the inner parts.
    2. Remove the watch cushions from all holders.
    3. Using the Tweezers and/or your fingernails, remove the round black sticky pad that covers the screw on the bottom of each holder.
    4. Using the #2 Phillips Screwdriver, remove the screws from each of the holders.
    5. Pull all holders up to remove them.
    6. Using the Tweezers and/or your fingernails, remove the round black sticky pads that cover the screws along the side walls. Depending on your winder model, there may be up to four screws on each side.
    7. Using the #1 Phillips Screwdriver, remove these screws.
    8. Using the Putty Knife or Flathead Screwdriver, carefully peel off the front and back felt liners and at least one of the side liners. Set the liners aside in such a way that the glue will not be compromised.
    9. Determine with motor(s) you need to check and/or exchange. Using the #2 Phillips Screwdriver, remove the two screws (round head) that hold the motor(s) to the base. With the front of the unit facing you and the lid opened to the back, these will be the two screws nearest you.
    10. Push down on the motor spindle with the screwdriver to drop it out of place.
    11. Insert the screwdriver into the hole, and use it to pry the base up and slightly out of the wooden case. Do not lift it too far, however, as this will pull the power connector cable loose.


    Inspection:
    1. In order to determine the cause of the winder not working properly, you will need to operate it and observe it.
    2. Plug the AC Adapter into a power outlet and into the power port on the back of your unit.
    3. Be sure the winder unit in question is turned on.
    4. If the motor is turning, and it is turning the winder spindle, then the respective winder unit is okay.
    5. If the motor is turning, but the winder spindle is not, then you only need to replace the band/belt as it may have stretched out. You may order a replacement band through us, or you may simply replace it with a similarly sized rubber band.
    6. If the motor is not turning, check to be sure all connector cables are firmly connected.
    7. If all cables are firmly in place, and the motor is not turning, chances are the motor itself may have gone bad, but there is also a possibility that the corresponding PCB may have gone bad. In order to ensure that you resolve the issue, it would be wise to replace both the motor and the PCB. You may even want to play it safe and also replace the power connector cable to the PCB.
    8. When ordering replacement parts, be sure to note the color of your motor and the four-digit number on the PCB to be replaced.
    9. Until you receive your replacement parts, however, it would be wise to leave these parts in the unit so you can see how they are connected when you get ready to install the new ones.


    Replacing a motor and/or PCB:
    1. Once you receive your replacement parts, you are ready to replace them.
    2. It would be wise to take a few pictures so that you have something to refer to when connecting the new parts. However, if you are careful, you can do this without a picture.
    3. First, start by disconnecting the original motor by pulling the motor wire loose from the PCB.
    4. Next, connect the new motor to the same port on the PCB. Test the new motor as before.
    5. If it works, then the issue was with your original motor, and there is no need to change out the PCB or power connecting cable. You should dispose of the original motor and proceed to reassembly instructions.
    6. If the motor does not operate, then the issue may not have been with your original motor. Hang on to it to have for a spare in case one fails later.
    7. Now you need to replace the PCB in question. First, be sure to either take a picture or leave all the cables connected so you know what goes where.
    8. Using the #2 Phillips Screwdriver, loosen the flat-headed screws that hold the PCB in place.
    9. Use your fingers to hold the hex nuts still, then finish unscrewing until the nuts come off. Be careful not to let the PCB fall loose just yet as there are other small parts (spacers) that my fall loose as well.
    10. Once the nuts are removed, you may pull the PCB off, being careful to keep the screws and spacers in place.
    11. Put the new PCB in place and replace the nuts. Tighten snugly, but do not overtighten.
    12. Next, remove one cable at a time from the old PCB and connect it to the corresponding port on the new PCB. Once the last cable has been changed out, you may set aside the original PCB.
    13. Again, test the winder as before. If it works, then the issue was with your original PCB. You should dispose of the original PCB.
    14. It would be wise to go ahead and reconnect your original motor at this point to see if it now works. If so, you should keep it as a spare in case one of your motors fails later.
    15. If the unit is now operating, you are ready to proceed to the reassembly instructions.
    16. If the unit is still not working, try replacing the power connector cable between the PCB in question and the preceding PCB (the one to the left of the PCB in question). If this fails to get the unit working, you should take the entire assembly and all parts to a qualified electrician or repair center.


    Reassembly:
    1. Once you have your unit working properly again, you are ready to put it all back together.
    2. First, put the motor back into the base by inserting the spindle through the hole, pushing it in until it is firmly against the base, and replace the screws that hold it in.
    3. Put the base back in place inside the case and test the unit one more time to ensure that nothing has come loose in the process thus far. If any of the winder units isn’t working, pull the base back up and check all connections.
    4. If all units are working properly, replace the small screws that hold the base in place.
    5. Next, replace the felt linings. You may need to use additional glue to re-adhere them.
    6. Replace the holders over the spindles and tighten the screws snugly.
    7. Replace the watch cushions.
    8. Be sure to store any spare parts where you will remember where they are. Sorry, but we cannot take back any watch winder parts for refund.
    Thanks for that. But I call their diagnostic procedure "replace stuff until it works", and I will try some different approaches.

    I am reasonably sure I have a voltage problem, which can be both investigated and corrected. I just need some quality time with a DVM, and a second unit disassembled and tested.

    It's not the belts, though. The square belts I ordered are slightly too large, but still provide good enough grip. But they operate the same as the O-rings. And given the instructions above, which suggest a rubber band, clearly the belts are not critical.

    But I'm not going to be able to mess with this for a couple of weeks.

    Rick "more to come in the fullness of time" Denney
    dbostedo likes this.
    Zenith: Captain Chronograph 03.2110.400*; Cartier: Santos 100 XL Concord: Mariner, C1 Big-Date, C1 v.2 Chronograph; Ebel: Chronosport 1134901, Tekton 9137L83*, Type E 9137C41* (*=COSC)
    Ebel: 1911 BTR 9137L73* and 9139L71*, 1911 1120L41*, 1911 Senior 9080241, Brasilias 9120M41 (2), Aquatica 500 9120K61, Classic Hexagon GMT 9301F61, Classic 100 LE 9120R41; Baume & Mercier: Capeland World-Timer
    Heuer: Carrera 1964 Re-Edition CS3110; Maurice Lacroix: Masterpiece MP6439; "Seagull": 1963 Reissue cal. ST19; Seiko: Black Monster SRP307; Poljot: Sturmanskie cal. 3133; Tissot: T-Touch Lew and Huey: Acciona
    Vintage: JLC: ref. 2953, ca. 1946; Longines: Flagship cal 285; Zodiac: SST cal. 86, Aerospace GMT cal. 72; Favre-Leuba: cal. 253; Tianjin: Dong Feng cal. ST5; Elgin: Gr. 152 (1898), Gr. 384 (1919); Ebel: ca. 1962 ref. 9214955
    WUS: ST5 Project Watches (Black and Blue), F72.2014.DG3804 (Gray and Cream); Swatch: Sistem 51 Blue; TNT: Rattrapante cal. Rochat 7750+RAT-1

  2. #32
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    Re: Conclusion: Brookstone Winders are Junk

    I finally got a moment to spend with the winder I had taken apart. Turns out, the on-off switches are flaky. I cannot for the life of me figure out why three would fail just from me taking it apart, but there it is. When they are jumpered to bypass the switch, operation is perfect with the cheap O-rings, and they have restored the original quietness. The square belts I bought were slightly too large.

    I'm testing it with my heaviest watches.

    Rick "who will pull the power plug if it needs to be turned off" Denney
    Zenith: Captain Chronograph 03.2110.400*; Cartier: Santos 100 XL Concord: Mariner, C1 Big-Date, C1 v.2 Chronograph; Ebel: Chronosport 1134901, Tekton 9137L83*, Type E 9137C41* (*=COSC)
    Ebel: 1911 BTR 9137L73* and 9139L71*, 1911 1120L41*, 1911 Senior 9080241, Brasilias 9120M41 (2), Aquatica 500 9120K61, Classic Hexagon GMT 9301F61, Classic 100 LE 9120R41; Baume & Mercier: Capeland World-Timer
    Heuer: Carrera 1964 Re-Edition CS3110; Maurice Lacroix: Masterpiece MP6439; "Seagull": 1963 Reissue cal. ST19; Seiko: Black Monster SRP307; Poljot: Sturmanskie cal. 3133; Tissot: T-Touch Lew and Huey: Acciona
    Vintage: JLC: ref. 2953, ca. 1946; Longines: Flagship cal 285; Zodiac: SST cal. 86, Aerospace GMT cal. 72; Favre-Leuba: cal. 253; Tianjin: Dong Feng cal. ST5; Elgin: Gr. 152 (1898), Gr. 384 (1919); Ebel: ca. 1962 ref. 9214955
    WUS: ST5 Project Watches (Black and Blue), F72.2014.DG3804 (Gray and Cream); Swatch: Sistem 51 Blue; TNT: Rattrapante cal. Rochat 7750+RAT-1

  3. #33
    Member dbostedo's Avatar
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    Re: Conclusion: Brookstone Winders are Junk

    Did you get a chance to examine the switches? Is it possible something is just loose? Or are they actually broken?
    Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute, Poseidon Piranha, Orient Wingman, Zeppelin Flatline 7366-3, Glashutte Original PanoMaticLunar, Epos Emotion 3390, Steinhart Ocean 2 Premium, Hamilton Khaki Field, Omega 1965 Vintage, Seiko 5 SNKK27, Seiko 1977 Vintage, Nomos Orion 38, Wittnauer 1960's Vintage, Citizen B0000-04h, Movado SL1 Chrono, Seiko SBQK085, Cyma Le Locle

  4. #34
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    Re: Conclusion: Brookstone Winders are Junk

    Quote Originally Posted by dbostedo View Post
    Did you get a chance to examine the switches? Is it possible something is just loose? Or are they actually broken?
    These are push-on-push-off plastic switches that snap together and are not designed to be serviceable. One leg has power, as expected, and the leads from the switch to the board are randomly oriented on the terminals. But I really have no idea why disassembly of the winder would cause three of them to fail--something I obviously don't understand about how it works. Winder working today as expected with the three failed positions jumpered.

    Rick "who'll remove one and take it apart some day" Denney
    Zenith: Captain Chronograph 03.2110.400*; Cartier: Santos 100 XL Concord: Mariner, C1 Big-Date, C1 v.2 Chronograph; Ebel: Chronosport 1134901, Tekton 9137L83*, Type E 9137C41* (*=COSC)
    Ebel: 1911 BTR 9137L73* and 9139L71*, 1911 1120L41*, 1911 Senior 9080241, Brasilias 9120M41 (2), Aquatica 500 9120K61, Classic Hexagon GMT 9301F61, Classic 100 LE 9120R41; Baume & Mercier: Capeland World-Timer
    Heuer: Carrera 1964 Re-Edition CS3110; Maurice Lacroix: Masterpiece MP6439; "Seagull": 1963 Reissue cal. ST19; Seiko: Black Monster SRP307; Poljot: Sturmanskie cal. 3133; Tissot: T-Touch Lew and Huey: Acciona
    Vintage: JLC: ref. 2953, ca. 1946; Longines: Flagship cal 285; Zodiac: SST cal. 86, Aerospace GMT cal. 72; Favre-Leuba: cal. 253; Tianjin: Dong Feng cal. ST5; Elgin: Gr. 152 (1898), Gr. 384 (1919); Ebel: ca. 1962 ref. 9214955
    WUS: ST5 Project Watches (Black and Blue), F72.2014.DG3804 (Gray and Cream); Swatch: Sistem 51 Blue; TNT: Rattrapante cal. Rochat 7750+RAT-1

  5. #35
    Member flame2000's Avatar
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    Re: Conclusion: Brookstone Winders are Junk

    Quote Originally Posted by Rdenney View Post
    I finally got a moment to spend with the winder I had taken apart. Turns out, the on-off switches are flaky. I cannot for the life of me figure out why three would fail just from me taking it apart, but there it is. When they are jumpered to bypass the switch, operation is perfect with the cheap O-rings, and they have restored the original quietness. The square belts I bought were slightly too large.

    I'm testing it with my heaviest watches.

    Rick "who will pull the power plug if it needs to be turned off" Denney
    I am glad you got it working. Save you some money buying a new winder.

  6. #36
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    Re: Conclusion: Brookstone Winders are Junk

    That one winder was the only one with the switch problem, and it is working fine with the power switches bypassed. I replaced the belts in the other three quad winders without that problem, so I still don't know what caused the switches to be flaky. I now have winder space for 18 watches fully restored.

    The last unit (to measure the most practiced repair) took 20 minutes to peel off the lining, remove the 8 screws holding in the panel, lift the panel out, replace the belts, and reassemble.

    Rick "project complete" Denney
    dbostedo likes this.
    Zenith: Captain Chronograph 03.2110.400*; Cartier: Santos 100 XL Concord: Mariner, C1 Big-Date, C1 v.2 Chronograph; Ebel: Chronosport 1134901, Tekton 9137L83*, Type E 9137C41* (*=COSC)
    Ebel: 1911 BTR 9137L73* and 9139L71*, 1911 1120L41*, 1911 Senior 9080241, Brasilias 9120M41 (2), Aquatica 500 9120K61, Classic Hexagon GMT 9301F61, Classic 100 LE 9120R41; Baume & Mercier: Capeland World-Timer
    Heuer: Carrera 1964 Re-Edition CS3110; Maurice Lacroix: Masterpiece MP6439; "Seagull": 1963 Reissue cal. ST19; Seiko: Black Monster SRP307; Poljot: Sturmanskie cal. 3133; Tissot: T-Touch Lew and Huey: Acciona
    Vintage: JLC: ref. 2953, ca. 1946; Longines: Flagship cal 285; Zodiac: SST cal. 86, Aerospace GMT cal. 72; Favre-Leuba: cal. 253; Tianjin: Dong Feng cal. ST5; Elgin: Gr. 152 (1898), Gr. 384 (1919); Ebel: ca. 1962 ref. 9214955
    WUS: ST5 Project Watches (Black and Blue), F72.2014.DG3804 (Gray and Cream); Swatch: Sistem 51 Blue; TNT: Rattrapante cal. Rochat 7750+RAT-1

  7. #37
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    Conclusion: Brookstone Winders are Junk

    Latest: one of the o-rings fatigued and broke. I changed that winder to the loose-fitting square belts I bought. They seem to fit the same as the unbroken originals, whereas the o-rings had to be stretched slightly. If the square belts are reliable, I'll post the spec.

    Rick "sigh" Denney
    Last edited by Rdenney; 2 Days Ago at 20:04.
    dbostedo likes this.
    Zenith: Captain Chronograph 03.2110.400*; Cartier: Santos 100 XL Concord: Mariner, C1 Big-Date, C1 v.2 Chronograph; Ebel: Chronosport 1134901, Tekton 9137L83*, Type E 9137C41* (*=COSC)
    Ebel: 1911 BTR 9137L73* and 9139L71*, 1911 1120L41*, 1911 Senior 9080241, Brasilias 9120M41 (2), Aquatica 500 9120K61, Classic Hexagon GMT 9301F61, Classic 100 LE 9120R41; Baume & Mercier: Capeland World-Timer
    Heuer: Carrera 1964 Re-Edition CS3110; Maurice Lacroix: Masterpiece MP6439; "Seagull": 1963 Reissue cal. ST19; Seiko: Black Monster SRP307; Poljot: Sturmanskie cal. 3133; Tissot: T-Touch Lew and Huey: Acciona
    Vintage: JLC: ref. 2953, ca. 1946; Longines: Flagship cal 285; Zodiac: SST cal. 86, Aerospace GMT cal. 72; Favre-Leuba: cal. 253; Tianjin: Dong Feng cal. ST5; Elgin: Gr. 152 (1898), Gr. 384 (1919); Ebel: ca. 1962 ref. 9214955
    WUS: ST5 Project Watches (Black and Blue), F72.2014.DG3804 (Gray and Cream); Swatch: Sistem 51 Blue; TNT: Rattrapante cal. Rochat 7750+RAT-1

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