Casio G-Shock G-3000 Series
[G-3000, G-3001, G-3010, G-3011]
images: one two
Changing the battery
First and foremost, Sjors produced an excellent guide for changing the battery on a Casio G-Shock. He used a specific model as a general guideline for all G-Shocks. But for some models, there are differences in how the watch is partially disassembled.
This is a brief guide on how to get access to the battery on a G-3000 series G-Shock. This is based on a G-3010, but appears to apply to the other 3000 series models. I did not have enough free time right now to take photos of the process, but it is simple enough that they really aren't needed. I will try to take photos when I open up my watch to lubricate the gasket, sometime in the very near future.
Tools needed: Micro Philips head screw driver and needle tweezers. Masking tape, to hold the screws removed (so they don't get lost).
wrist band sides (2), wrist band on case back (2), red gasket (2), case back (4). Note that each set is a different size. The red gasket and wrist band case back screws are very close in size, so be careful not to mix them up.
The G-3010 design has the wristband basically integrated into the sides of the casing. The case molded ends of the band make it unfortunately impossible to change to any 3rd party band (I think Casio might have an alternative available that is compatible with this series). But the main consideration is that you really need to remove one side of the wristband in order to facilitate access to the battery. I suggest removing the band with the buckle on it (the top one), as the lower one is a little trickier to put back in place. This is because that band has the illumination button protruding through it. If the band isn't seated right, the illumination button ends up recessed in the "on" position. The result is that none of the buttons work, including illumination (it is triggered by a state change, which can't happen with the button stuck down).
1. The G-3010 has a prominent colored gasket (red, yellow, or other colors) surrounding the back side edging and lower part of the case. It is secured in place by two small screws on the case sides. Remove those two screws and the gasket can now be pulled off (the four screws you see through the gasket while looking at the back side are what hold the case back on, and do not hold the gasket at all).
2. The wristband straps are held in place by 6 screws (3 for each strap), of which 4 of will be removed.
a. With the gasket removed, you will now see there is a screw in the center of the bottom edge on each strap. Remove these and set aside.
b. On the sides of the case there are two black plastic surrounds that fit around the metal buttons. These pull off fairly easily. You might need to pull back a little on the bands to help unseat the securing tabs that hold them in place.
c. Removal of the surrounds exposes four black painted screws. These are the remaining two screws that hold on each strap. Remove the ones for the strap that has the buckle, and set aside.
d. Pull on the strap you just loosened and it should come off without much trouble. There are several soft tabs that are used to hold the straps flush to the case, so they need to be unhooked.
3. The remaining screws are the four which hold the case back onto the case. Remove all four and set aside. You will now be able to lift the case back up to expose the module. Remember the case back orientation--the imprinting on the back should face up the same as the watch face.
4. You will see a black rubber piece covering over the module. This lifts up easily since it just rests in place. Be mindful that there is a small spring sticking up out of the module, which connects to the alarm speaker on the inside of the case back. If you're not careful, you can easily dislodge this spring. It is extremely small and very easy to lose. On top of this, it is not magnetic, so rolling around a magnet on the floor in hope of snagging it won't work. If you do accidentally dislodge the spring, set it aside for safe keeping until you're done changing the battery.
5. From here, you can pretty much follow along with Sjors' battery removal guide. In short, you will unclip the battery clamp using needle nose tweezers, pull the old battery out, slide the new battery in place, then push the clamp back down. Sjors wrote a very detailed photo guide showing you how this clamp is released.
6. On the odd chance you dislodged the alarm spring, here's how to replace it: There are several "holes" on the module back, so you may be left wondering where this spring goes. The telltale indicator is the black rubber cover--it has a small hole for the spring to fit through. The orientation of the cover is a bit obvious, as there's a metal prong protruding on the upper end of the module and the cover has a rectangular slot for it. Once you put it in place, you'll see exactly which hole the spring goes in. The spring itself is smooth on one end and has a small piece of metal sticking out on the other end (obvious if you look at it with a magnifying lens). That little piece of metal sticking out helps anchor the spring in place, so this part goes in first. As you hold the spring with the needle tweezers, you'll need to tilt the spring slightly to let that part in first, then carefully compress the spring until it clicks back into place. Do this over a very wide flat surface, in case you lose your grip on the spring and it jumps away from you. If you can, use a magnifying glass in the process to help you.
7. Sjors' guide instructs you to reset the watch via the AC short method. Be sure to do this, as there's no risk involved in doing it and it's simply good practice. You should see the date and time reset back to 1/1 12:00a.
8. Replace the black rubber cover and reassemble the watch in the reverse order described. Do NOT tighten the screws too much, as you do not want to risk stripping them. Once the 4 case back screws are in place, turn over the module and press the function buttons, just to be sure they are working. If they aren't, then you may have inadvertently disturbed the module alignment. I had this very problem the first time I replaced the battery on my G-3010. Try lifting the module slightly with the tweezers, then push back down around the edging. Also be sure the illumination button didn't accidentally get stuck down when flexing the wristband.
9. Finish watch reassembly. You should be good to go for the next two years.
Here is someone's WUS posting about changing the battery in their G-3011, with detailed pics: G-3011 battery change
G-Shock models G-3011, G-3010, G-3001, and G-3000 are all very similar in design, so they should all be applicable to this guide. If not, let me know and I'll update that here. I hope this writeup has been helpful for anybody owning a G-3010.