WITH ITS DIAMETER OF 17.5MM, THE BALANCE WHEEL IS ONE OF THE LARGEST EVER USED IN MODERN WRIST WATCHES AND THE EPONYM OF THE FIRST ANTOINE MARTIN COLLECTION. THE CALIBRE AM39.001 REPRESENTS MARTIN BRAUN’S 30 YEARS OF WATCHMAKING EXPERIENCE. AT BASELWORLD 2012 THE START UP BRAND PRESENTS ITS FIRST COLLECTION.
The case is hardly to be topped in terms of complexity. In order to showcase the wondrous interplay of polishing and
satin finishing, this case was conceived to include detachable strap lugs. Thus, the recesses are polished to a high gloss, while the upper parts remain matte. The strikingly designed flanks, which lend the case its unique lines, are also individually secured. An unmistakable element of an ANTOINE MARTIN watch is certainly the crown, which is reminiscent of classic Bauhaus design. This case in its entirety is a lavish construction comprising 85 individual components.
The designers at ANTOINE MARTIN have also left nothing to chance with regard to the dial. A modern interpretation of
classic guilloché embellishing the centre and a completely new style of applied numerals combine to create this watch’s very striking face. The vertical placement of the perpetual calendar’s day and month displays and the leap year indication at the 12 o’clock position were only possible thanks to a few new tricks up the engineers’ sleeves.
Quantième Perpétuel au Grand Balancier Hand-wound movement with six days power reserve Case Rose gold 18K double anti-reflective sapphire crystal Genuine brown Louisiana alligator leather strap with rose gold18K folding clasp
Quantième Perpétuel au Grand Balancier Hand-wound movement with six days power reserve Case Steel black DLC double anti-reflective sapphire crystal Black rubber strap with steel black DLC folding clasp
Left: Case white gold 18K 750 Right: Case steel black DLC
This movement showcases its most beautiful component, which is simultaneously its beating heart: the balance.
The extra-large balance wheel, whose primary “raison d’être” is stabilization of amplitude, measures 17.5 mm in diameter and is crafted in high-tech Grade 5 titanium. Boasting two little gold screws for fine adjustment, thereby freeing the balance spring from fine regulation by index, it is one of the largest balances ever used in this style of escapement.
Underscoring its charming girth and the soothing motion of its oscillation, the balance beats at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hertz). This “vintage” tempo brings not only the size of the balance to the fore, but also the
majestic tranquillity with which it goes about its work. Technically speaking, this size makes a lot of sense: not only does its considerable size build up more kinetic energy. Should the movement experience shock, the finicky balance is more apt to remain within its amplitude—thus keeping a stable rate—than would be the case with a smaller balance.
Balance wheel with 17.5mm diameter
ANTOINE MARTIN “MASTERING PERFECTION”
ANTOINE MARTIN stands for a consummate blend of watchmaking expertise, traditional craftsmanship and clarity of
vision. The brand puts Martin Braun’s 30 years of watchmaking experience in an entirely new light. His impressive debut with a Perpetual Calendar will provide the foundations for more outstanding and unusual creations. “In future there will be no limit to our innovation,” is how Martin Braun summarizes his philosophy.
Under the management of Bruno Jufer, the team has one credo: “Mastering Perfection” and works to establish the brand to a global watch manufacturer in the high end luxury watch segment. “Our watches are made for a discerning
clientele and for connoisseurs who take an interest in technology, have high expectations regarding quality and are looking for something out of the ordinary,” is the way Bruno Jufer, CEO at ANTOINE MARTIN, describes the company’s strategy.
Left: Martin Braun, master watchmaker | Right: Bruno Jufer, CEO
Related link : www.antoinemartin.ch