Picked up non working for $50 app. Spent further $120 for hands,signed crystal and new pawl assembly and ended up with below after many hours lining up those damm jewels. Tension still not quite right.
Issue is when cased it takes three or four try's to pull crown out to second position to move hands whereas it's ok when uncased ?
What have I done wrong?
**Perhaps gunk in the case tube or an alignment issue. Perhaps a description of what you did would help in the determination of what you did wrong? Images might help.
Did you completely service the watch per the service bulletin...?
There are a few quirks in servicing the 916x/125x/f300:
1. Service bulletin says to remove the tf module before even uncasing the movement...this is a VERY GOOD IDEA. When removing/re-installing the module, the stem should be in the middle position.
2. Hand removal and installation is done with the tf module not installed...this protects the index wheel/index finger/pawl finger. (Movement hacks electrically but not physically...so only the friction wheel protects the index mechanism).
3. Be diligent in servicing the friction wheel assembly. Probably the chief culprit in killing index wheels/index finger/pawl fingers. When you advance the hands forward, the ss hand should not jump forward...or worse yet move rapidly forward. When lubricating the friction wheel you must be very careful not to deform the friction spring. Use a moly lubricant and I use a small strip of batter cell insulator to apply it between the wheel and the friction disc which is part of the assembly.
NEVER move the hands CCW!!!! on this caliber.
Use only Renata batteries in this movement. All other manufacturers have changed the cross-sectional profile of their can and the batteries will short against the negative contact unless you fabricate an additional insulator.
Link to service bulletin: http://www.timetrafficker.com/about/...air-manual.pdf
Phasing for silver oxide batteries is covered in same document as Accutrons.
Last edited by BenchGuy; 2 Days Ago at 14:10.
Remove the tf. Place it on your microscope stage (I actually use a piece of paper on the stage as a "matt"). Use #7 curved tweezers to grasp the spring near the point where you wish to bend...with the tweezer points resting on the stage (to steady the tweezer). Make sure the tweezer is gripping the spring such that the edge is perpendicular to the spring. I use a curved oil pip to then manipulate the section I am bending with the section I to not want to disturb steadied as forementioned. Same procedure on the pawl arm...but mercifully the fixture has less mass, so you are less likely to deform elsewhere. If you do this part right, the only adjustments you will need to make once the tf and pawl adjuster are remounted should be near their bases...which can again be accomplished with the bent-pip-oiler and the tool which you made to manipulate the posts (you did make one, didn't you?).
I have a tremor under the microscope...we all do to varying degrees. You resolve this issue by developing techniques to manage it...
Last edited by BenchGuy; 20 Minutes Ago at 13:53.
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