Magrette Moana Pacific Professional Black & Steel
It may have snuck up on you, but 2017 marks the 10th anniversary of New Zealand-based Magrette. Owner Dion McAsey has established a strong record of successful releases, and in this increasingly competitive market should be commended for still going strong and moving into his second decade. The Moana Pacific Professional series of dive watches has been a popular line for Magrette. It picked up where the Moana Pacific Diver left off back in 2012/13, adding a helium escape valve, a more technical dial design, a ceramic (vs. aluminum) bezel insert, and higher spec automatic movement (Miyota 9015). There are many variations of the MPP, with steel and PVD finished cases using a range of different color accents. However, a gap that has remained - until now - was a simple, classic monochromatic black dial in bare steel. Simple, but such a clean look adds a more straightforward, workmanlike appearance. Introducing the new Magrette Moana Pacific Professional Black and Steel editions...
Pre-orders of each lit up in late 2016 and went like wildfire. The first batch has recently started shipping, ahead of schedule I might add. As a self-professed fan of the brand and owner of several MPP’s I wanted to offer my thoughts on these new timepieces.
THE BROAD STROKES
Lest you think the Moana Pacific Professional Black simply drops the dial from the stealthy MPP All Black into the 44mm Magrette bare-steel cushion case, Dion has pumped up the volume on some key specifications:
- The dial lume goes from Super-LumiNova C1 to BWG9, still beautiful cool blue but a brighter, longer lasting formulation;
- The hands are similarly lit up with BGW9;
- The previous painted ceramic bezel insert is swapped out for DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coated steel with a radial-brushed finish, and etched markings filled with BGW9 that are both brighter and more robust;
- The headline spec change is the transition to a new Swiss automatic movement from Swiss Technology Production SA (Caliber STP 1-11). This marks Magrette’s first use of an STP movement and the first time an MPP gets a Swiss engine under the hood. A move I applaud as the Citizen Miyota Caliber 9015, while technically excellent, is simply too common these days.
The MPP Steel goes a couple of steps further on this formula for another unique entry to the line:
- A bare, brushed steel bezel insert is incorporated - a first for Magrette as far as I know;
- The top of the case and lugs are radially brushed rather than polished - the only other Moana Pacific case I can think of with this treatment is the MPP G14;
- The crown is fully brushed to match the case and insert;
- Lume on the etched bezel insert, dial and hands is C3 Super-LumiNova which will glow green rather than blue.
The combination of the bare steel bezel insert and brushed case top makes for a very different, almost clinical, appearance of the MPP Steel compared to the rest of the line. It is very striking.
The monochromatic treatment gives you a blank palette you can dress up with all manner of strappage. In its purest form you get this...
Stunning, with all sorts of mileage for how it can be worn. While I love the overt or subtle blasts of color with the other MPP’s this more subdued form looks great and should appeal to a wide audience. It also lends a more technical, tool'ish look to this already high-spec diver.
All told the MPP Black and Steel are well suited to their “Professional” titles with a solid case structure, highly legible dials, higher quality lume across the board, attention to detail and solid Swiss mechanical movement. Add to that a unique design language among today’s boutique brands with excellent packaging and you have another strong value proposition from Magrette. Now on to the meat of it.
THE NITTY GRITTY
Moana Pacific Professional Black, Moana Pacific Professional Steel
44mm cushion case excluding crown (48mm wide including crown and HEV); bezel 43.3mm; 24mm lug width; 53mm lug-to-lug (to extreme point, tapers down to 52mm); 15.3mm thick; crown 7.6mm x 3.5mm
Head only: 4.3oz/125g; Incl. rubber strap+clasp: 5.7oz/160g; Incl. leather strap: 5.2oz;148g; Incl. ZULU strap: 5.4oz/151g
Double-domed sapphire with interior anti-reflective coating
500M / 1640ft / 50 bar
Helium Escape Valve:
Automatic, located at 9 o’clock
Swiss Technology Production SA Caliber STP 1-11 (4Hz/28800bph; hacking seconds; hand winding; 44 hour power reserve; Incabloc shock protection)
Custom fitted/lug integrated rubber with Magrette embossing and custom butterfly deployant clasp (tapered 24/22mm, length 126/81mm (misleading as this is from case edge to tail unlike conventional strap,) uniform 3mm thick (after the lugs); pre-order customers also receive Magrette-signed ZULU nylon and chocolate brown leather straps.
Custom zippered leather travel case with removable storage pouch and Magrette embossing; presentation box; signed owners card
500 pieces each colorway
A caveat on the photos included here: some represent the MPP Black and Steel prototypes rather than the production versions. Some of the Black have the “standard” MPP ceramic bezel insert with painted markers or etched glossy DLC. The production models instead house the brushed DLC version.
Packaging, as always, is superb - refined and practical. The outer box is fabric wrapped with a white screened logo and evokes an immediate sense of quality. An ownership card with brief company history and details on your specific model with Dion McAsey's signature is presented when you open the box. A beautifully made and very useful dark brown leather zippered travel case with copper stitching and embossed logo houses the actual watch. The interior is a tan suede-like material and is separated into two compartments with a protective flap in between (which has elastic loops for holding extra straps and/or a changing tool.) A removable pouch to house accessories occupies the top section, and below is the form fitted slot for the watch. This is a reveal you will truly enjoy.
The MPP Black/Steel feature the 44mm cushion style case common across most of the Magrette line. It’s a beautiful shell that wears much better than paper specs alone would suggest, owing to the not-quite-square and not-quite-round cushion shape with lugs that are relatively compact and extend the curve of the case down to the wrist (for reference mine is a flat seven inches.)
Personally I have found Magrette's 44mm pieces to fit very comfortably, but I also don't mind knowing a watch is on my wrist. I have added weights to the specification summary above only because I just received a kitchen scale, and what better way to test it. I never pay attention to watch weights so can't make a relative comment on the listed values. For reference purposes I'll compare a larger dive watch that all will be familiar with, and many readers will likely have... my beloved Seiko SBDC003 Sumo. It comes in (on stock bracelet) at 6.3oz/178g. So even in its heaviest configuration among the included straps the MPP Black/Steel come in a bit lighter. On the other end of the scale, the supremely cool Magrette Regattare Carbon weighs in at a feather-light 3.0oz/86g (on synthetic/leather strap + Magrette clasp.)
Contrasting brushed (sides) and polished (top) finishes on the Black create visual interest and are cleanly executed. The top radial brushing on the Steel is similarly crisp and well textured. Along the 9 o’clock case side of each is a polished helium escape/release valve that contributes to the watch’s technical appearance and is well set off against the brushed surface. The practical value of an HEV on the vast majority of dive watches can be debated, but I still appreciate when they're used. I like the added case detail, the technical element, and the higher operating spec it suggests. By the way, a slightly new HEV design is used here, a bit smaller and cleaner in its execution (see below comparison to original MPP valve.)
The case back features a crisply engraved Magrette shield along with technical details and edition/case numbers. I have always loved this back and its execution stands up even under the closest scrutiny. There are no guards around the substantial screw down crown, meaning it’s very easy to grip and turn. Threading is clean and the crown easily released, its travel smooth with no excessive wobble. As is standard for the line the Magrette vine-and-shield logo is again represented here, engraved with a blasted interior that contrasts against the polished (MPP Black) and circular-brushed (MPP Steel) tops of the crowns. These details are always appreciated, and the the logo itself is an excellent study in graphic design.
The Panerai influence is clear and undeniable with such an iconic case shape; Dion’s fundamental design vision has always been that classic Italian style. But the MPP is also not just a straight copy nor homage. It proudly wears its influences while introducing local flair. By my estimation, the case shape most closely aligns with the Luminor less the trademark crown lock. Whereas the dial makes a nod to Anonimo (born of Panerai when the company transitioned to Swiss operations with Richemont), in particular the racey Arabic style. But the rest of the layout stands on its own with the addition of a unique rehaut design for added depth and visual interest. And, interestingly, despite Panerai being so strongly associated with robust dive watches the use of a count-up timing bezel is largely limited to the Submersible series and even then is a singular design.
The Black and Steel feature 120-click bezels consistent with the rest of the MPP line. The action is crisp, with sufficient resistance and tactility and no unnecessary back play. The coin edge is slightly raised and sits just proud of the case. That said the bezels on both are quite firm in their rotation. On profile the insert slopes down from the slightly domed crystal, the taper of which ties in with the sloping case edge and helps keep the perceived thickness of the watch in check (see case line profile photo above.)
The bezel is polished, but the inserts are brushed DLC or bare steel, which offers not only additional textural contrast but also minimizes reflections that might otherwise compete with legibility of the markings. For the Steel the polished bezel edge serves an additional aesthetic purpose as it separates the brushed insert from the brushed case. The circular brushing on each is clean with nice texture (fine rather than coarse, but not so much that it appears as satin) and a welcome addition to the Magrette stable. That said there is an inherent vulnerability to the Steel’s bare finish insert, so it will be interesting to see how it stands up to long-term use.
I will be upgrading my MPP All Black and Vintage to the new brushed DLC bezel at the earliest opportunity.
The MPP’s defining feature of the dial is arguably the curiously marked rehaut. In addition to conventional hashmarks for minutes, seconds and hours there are also small numbers marking every five minutes. It is also here - at 1:00 - where the water resistance spec is subtly annotated, a different approach that minimizes extraneous text on the dial proper. But what prompts the most questions are the intervals marked at 10, 30 and 35 minutes. This is often a point of speculation among Magrette fans and dive watch enthusiasts. The truth behind them comes straight from Dion:
“I came up with the idea when paddling. I wanted some markers that would stand out at a glance when I was going for the next paddle. The 10 minute marker acts as a 12 o’clock position for me because of the angle. I also use it for sprint training: 10 seconds, 30 and 35.”
I wager having just read that, many current MPP owners have just pretended to paddle and looked at their wrist to confirm that, in fact, the triangle at 2 o’clock is sure as .... positioned at relative 12.
Personally, I haven’t been able to make up a practical application for them, short of a makeshift regatta timer. But that detracts not from my opinion that they represent an interesting and unique design element, adding a technical look to the dial without impacting legibility. And it adds some of the designer’s personality to the mix. The printing is razor sharp throughout the entire rehaut, and it may escape casual observation but the inner/sloping flange is actually snailed which introduces a textural element that catches light similar to a sunray dial. Along with the added depth it contributes to the watch’s character.
Featured prominently on the dial are Magrette’s sleek Arabics at the cardinal points with customary two-digit 03/06/09 to maintain visual balance, and the typeface carries over to the bezel insert. Magrette typography has always been a strong point for me and that is no different here. I have always dug the typeface selected for “Moana Pacific” as it immediately evokes thoughts of a classic beach vibe. Trader Vic would approve. But, critically, it doesn’t come off as being campy.
As is standard with the MPP line there is a date window located at 4:30. Watch Guys can argue the merits or heresy of date windows on dive watches, but for me it’s a function I constantly check. Generally speaking I prefer 6 o’clock windows first, 3 o’clock second… But neither would work here as they would interrupt the other dial elements. The selected placement is ideal, and with a suitably color-matched date wheel it is unobstrusive. The aperture itself is nicely dimensional with a beveled edge. That said I imagine leaving out the date window would also serve the dial well, keeping attention focused on the other details.
LUME AND HANDS
The handset remains almost identical, with picket-style hours and minutes and thin seconds hand. However, they are all just a hair longer than the previous models which is a subtle but notable improvement. By virtue of the bar of lume against the dark hands they previously had the appearance of reading shorter than their actual size. The new hands now have the end of the lume bar aligned with the outer edge of the hour markers. To my eye they look more proportional. And of course they’re now loaded with the new BGW9 (Black) or C3 (Steel) lume. The clean, simple seconds hand is a bit more visible than previous MPP’s but being so narrow it also can’t accommodate much lume volume. As can be seen in the 3/4 profile photo above, the Arabics and hour markers are thickly painted. Between the volume and formulation of lume introduced with the MPP Black it radiates a cool, blue glow that lasts for hours. There is something about that icy blue that I have always loved and I think it’s the perfect choice here for the Black. The C3 on the Steel produces a vibrant green glow. In daylight there is a touch more contrast on the Black's dial as BGW9 reads as stark white against black. The C3 has a creamier tone on the Steel.
That said, there are a couple of considerations that bear mention regarding lume formulations, brightness and longevity. The Black’s BGW9 formulation is brighter than the C1 used on the MPP All Black as can be seen in the chart above. But there may be a misconception it will be nuclear like C3 Green as they’re so close on the scale. Which it is not. It doesn’t help when lume shots show what is often an exaggerated glow, and don’t acknowledge that an initial charge stabilizes and fades pretty quickly.
Picking up my Black one morning - having sat in the dark for over seven hours after being lit up - it was still clearly visible to night adjusted eyes.
Observation No. 1: While it may not be super-radiant out of the gate, BGW9 has staying power which is arguably more important.
Then I grabbed my Steel, which charged in exactly the same manner and environment, sitting side-by-side. After that same period of time it was also easily visible. And, more to the point, it was subjectively the same brightness as the Black's BGW9. There was no perceptible difference.
Observation No. 2: While C3 looks more impressive than BGW9 after it first gets charged, that intensity also fades quickly and ultimately the two are on par when it comes to longevity. At least over a period of 7-8 hours with no supplemental boost in between.
Below is a lume comparison shot, taken immediately after being charged with a few point-blank blasts of a full-power camera speedlight. Included from left to right are:
- MPP All Black
- MPP Black
- MPP Steel
- MPP Blue
On the left compares the C1 lume of the All Black to the new BGW9. Both suitably bright, but in my experience the C1 fades more quickly and to a greater degree. What is clearly no contest is the painted ceramic bezel insert compared to the new etched/filled DLC. Literally night and day. The MPP Steel and Blue are reading the same as should be expected given both are loaded with C3. I have the gloss DLC bezel insert installed on my Blue.
[From left to right, MPP All Black, MPP Black, MPP Steel, MPP Blue]
I am the first to wax poetic about the custom embossed Magrette rubber strap first introduced with the original MPP line. Along with the superbly executed custom deployant clasp it’s a rich, high-end presentation that is not common in this space. The strap is suitably soft and wraps comfortably around the wrist. And the clasp just rocks. Engraving a standard butterfly is fairly common, but this is well beyond. What I dig about the Magrette clasp is that it looks absolutely at home on a dive watch and rubber strap; conventional butterflies/deployants by design have a dressier appeal. This has enough beef and substance to hold up.
While the original strap remains available, the MPP Black/Steel ship with a brand new and terrifically sleek integrated strap. It transitions seamlessly across the tops of the lugs and tightly hugs the case edge. This fitted look is very sophisticated and complete.
The detail and depth on the strap is superb with three different planes/layers. The embossing is deep and the edges are razor sharp, just pristine. While it may appear in these closeups that there is excess finishing material on the sides this is exaggerated by magnification. To the naked eye it is the thinnest of seams, barely noticeable if at all, or is otherwise hidden by the lugs. Here you can also see the channel that exposes the springbar shoulders.
To ensure a tight, flush fit the position of the lug holes for the new case were slightly tweaked. But fear not... if you dig this style you can comfortably wear it on the existing MPP's with the trade off being a minor extra gap against the case when the strap rotates down. To wit on the All Black...
A trade-off with integrated straps, at least ones that fit this precisely, is that they can be tricky to install. The springbar must hold the strap tight against the case edge, so you need to work a bit to get them snapped into their respective lug holes. The notches exposing the shoulders of the springbars help in this regard.
The strap material is slightly stiffer than the standard embossed strap but nevertheless wears very comfortably. That said, it also takes a boiled curve extremely well. Once done it rolls around your wrist with no pressure against the sides.
As you would expect the original Magrette embossed strap works exceptionally well…
Pre-order customers also receive this excellent, thick chocolate brown leather strap with a solid buckle that is engraved with the Magrette logo. There is a reason why Magrette owners are more often than not Strap Junkies. The world is your oyster.
A conventional ZULU is also provided (black with MPP Black, silvery gray with the MPP Steel,) complete with a signed ring.
Incidentally these new Magrette-signed ZULU’s are also available in orange and an incredible shade of aqua blue. Contact Dion for more information.
Magrette also sells a variety of other leather styles that look superb, each of which come with a thick, signed buckle. A couple of examples...
[Left: Tan with white stitch; Right: Included Chocolate brown]
[MPP Black on vintage tan with white stitch. Also available with matching stitch]
[Splash of color; black with red belly]
[MPP Steel on Vantage leather with copper stitch]
The great thing about the monochrome MPP colorways is that you can introduce color however you like. As for third party strap offerings, I think we will all stand in agreement that the classic vented rubber style looks Absolutely. F*king. Awesome…
Want to play the color card? Fine…
Ridiculously cool. Happy Halloween. Just leave the clown suit at home.
I have recently become infatuated with Panatime’s line of RIOS1931 Vintage leather straps and have accumulated several. These are absolutely fantastic, perfectly suited to this watch style… and they’re very affordable given the quality. These are no-miss propositions…
[RIOS1931 for Panatime Burnt Maroon]
[RIOS1931 for Panatime Slate]
[RIOS1931 for Panatime Classic Brown]
[RIOS1931 for Panatime smooth Black]
[RIOS1931 for Panatime Burnt Chestnut]
[RIOS1931 for Panatime Navy]
It is also worth noting that these straps taper to 22mm with slots rather than pinholes so accommodate the Magrette deployant beautifully…
This makes for a very high-end presentation. I cannot overstate how fine this looks.
Regardless of your personal strap preference for style or color or material you are free to experiment with the MPP Black or Steel. As with almost all Magrette timepieces (the only exception I can think of being the Leoncino) the lugs are drilled for quick, safe strap changes. Which you will be doing often.
This release marks the first time that Magrette has used the Caliber STP 1-11 automatic movement from Swiss Technology Production, and this is the first Moana Pacific Pro to get the Swiss treatment. This is a great addition in my opinion. Not wanting to take anything away from the Miyota 9015 - it is an excellent workhorse movement, there is really no debate - but, frankly, I’m bored of it. The STP1-11 appears to sit on par with the 9015 and ETA 2824-2 with all the modern accoutrements (4Hz beat rate, hacking seconds, hand winding, quick set date, decent reserve, shock protection.) And for those who are unfamiliar this manufacture has been around for over a decade, although more recently part of the Fossil Group who have used these engines in their much coveted revival of the Zodiac brand of robust divers.
In practical terms there are a few notable differences in day-to-day operation compared to the Miyota 9015 (and ETA 2824-2 while we’re at it):
- Subjectively there is slightly less rotor noise. More to the point the STP is like the ETA 2824-2 in that rotor movement is more controlled/damped and comes to a stop pretty quickly, whereas the 9015 will continue to spin freely.
- Date transition is much quicker. On the STP it will start to shift just before midnight, although still not as precisely as the 2824-2, so there is little “in between” time each day. In comparison the 9015 date (annoyingly) starts to transition shortly after 11PM, and as such spends most of the last hour of every day in mid-shift limbo. This is a welcome improvement.
- The seconds hand sweep is on par with the 9015, although I have always felt the 2824-2 appears a bit smoother in its rotation despite sharing the same beat rate. But that aside the STP winds and sets more smoothly than the 9015, it’s more taught along the lines of the 2824-2.
- The crown position detents are pretty short, meaning there is not much extension and thus distinction between positions 1 (hand winding), 2 (date) and 3 (time) and it can be tricky to get that in-between notch. I think the 9015 has a bit more play in this regard, a little easier to catch that second position, and the 2824-2 the best of the bunch. This is purely subjective, how that differs from sample-to-sample or person-to-person remains to be seen.
- Slightly longer specified reserve with the STP (~44 hours) vs. the 9015 (~42 hours) or 2824-2 (~38 hours) - nothing mind blowing, won’t get you through a weekend, but right around where you would expect. I did not bother checking real-world reserve, don’t care that much. Can’t comment on relative winding efficiency, no idea if there are any hand-winding time-bombs as has been noted with the 2824-2.
- The crown is nicely damped when you press it back into Position 1 (winding/neutral) - it softly clicks back into place compared to the 9015 which is a bit more jarring. The advantage is that you can close off time setting without inadvertently jumping the minutes hand.
- Whether or not this has practical relevance, the movement junkies may find it interesting to note that the STP1-11 includes both Incabloc shock absorption and a Nivaflex NM mainspring. Interestingly, with the 2824-2 it is not until you get to Top/Top Chronometer grades that Incabloc and Nivaflex NM are used (Etachocs/Nivaflex NO are standard for Base/Elabore) whereas with the STP you have them right out of the gate. What does this mean for real-world performance? Not a clue. But it’s nice to know that the STP uses components that are on par with the higher grade Swiss workhorse benchmark.
So what about accuracy? Preliminary testing and experience ranges from outstanding (MPP Black) to good (MPP Steel) - couldn’t guess why the variation between. The official specification for the STP1-11 calls for a maximum 15s variation (although I’m not sure if that’s in any one position or spread across all positions) and a rated accuracy of -0/+15 seconds per day. Those are pretty solid numbers considering that the 9015’s published spec allows for much more variance, with an “acceptable” range of -10 to +30spd and a positional difference of less than 40spd. The STP is more on par with the 2824-2 (Standard/Base grades) whose specs allow for +/-12 seconds daily rate variation, but the ETA has a broader positional error of +/-30spd. Of course the 2824-2 is also available in higher grades (Elabore, Top, Top Chronometer) where the tolerances become much more strict.
What this suggests is that out of the box you should expect good accuracy with the STP even if it’s operating at the edge of its specified range. And in the case of both my MPP Black and MPP Steel this is exactly what I am seeing. Timing accuracy below is measured using the Hairspring iOS app. This is a rudimentary tool, to be sure, but for these purposes it does the job and observations are consistent with what I have seen during actual wear. I take these measurements with the mic taped to the back of the case aligned over the balance wheel. The watch is covered to reduce extraneous noise, and measurements are taken over about three minutes to average out the larger errors. Dial up/down and crown up/down results are as follows...
The Black numbers are very good with just over +3spd average gain, a maximum deviation of +7.1spd (dial down), and a positional variance of 8.9spd. All well within rated spec. Real world wear is even better, particularly if you leave the watch sitting crown up overnight/at rest where it slows down a bit and chews up some of the daily gains. To wit, over seven days of normal wear and rest the Black has gained a whopping 15 seconds or 2.2spd. At one point it was about 1.6spd during more constant wear, but had some time off while switching to the Steel (constant force is a pesky problem with mechanical watches so it loses accuracy as winding down.) That is outstanding and is one of the most, if not the most, accurate watches in my case, even alongside some nice Swiss Made pieces from notable brands.
The Steel tells a slightly different story, although it still sits right within the movement’s specified tolerance. Here it measures an average gain of +5.5spd, maximum deviation of +10.5s (crown up) and a maximum positional variance of +8.2s. Unlike the Black there is no position that loses time to trim off daily gains while resting, but they can be minimized by sitting dial up. To this end, over a similar measurement period (I have alternated wearing the Black and Steel over the past week) the Steel has run at an average of 7.6spd. Not as tight as the Black but still decent performance. And these are both brand new movements so where they end up after settling is anyone’s guess.
With the STP1-11 we have solid timekeeping with Swiss pedigree, a slightly quieter rotor, and more precise date change with components that are on par with the higher grade 2824-2 benchmark. There will probably be discussions for and against the choice of STP but I applaud it, feeling it elevates the overall level of the watch. And, for pre-order customers at least, it’s not attached with a premium.
The Moana Pacific Pro Black and Steel are both winners in my book. They are very complete dive watches that tick a lot of boxes between the materials, components, finishing, design and packaging. It will be a difficult choice for many, deciding between the more conventional Black or razor sharp Steel. Ultimately there are three broad considerations for would-be owners…
The bezel. Obviously. But not just bare steel over black but also how it changes the feel of the watch. The bare steel insert renders a different visual weight as the dial recedes more. With the Black you’ll read the dial and bezel together. More steel also yields a more sterile appearance (but I don’t mean that to be interpreted negatively, it just looks like a clinical instrument to me.) The inherent limitations of a bare steel bezel are vulnerability and legibility, so you’ll need to be aware of those tradeoffs.
The case. Do you like the uniformity of a completely brushed, more tool’ish looking case? Or do you appreciate the contrast of polished vs brushed surfaces. These again create a different feel for each watch.
The lume. BGW9 reads white by day, with better contrast against the black dial than creamier C3. For the latter that has the effect of softening the look of the black dial. In the dark do you prefer a blue or green glow? I would suggest you not be swayed by initial intensity as that balances out and both show similar longevity. I think the way the dials read in the light is the most compelling thing, personally I prefer the crisper look of the white lume against the black dial.
Initial customer reports have already been very positive, the first pre-order batch is long since sold out, and the second is well on its way. It’s looking like the MPP Black and Steel will be among Magrette’s most successful releases. Deservedly so. Happy anniversary.
- Monochromatic additions to MPP lineup offer more tool-like appearance and wearing flexibility, deliver a very crisp look on a wide range of straps.
- Excellent fit and finish throughout.
- Superb detailing: dial, crown, caseback, custom deployant, integrated/fitted strap, bezel insert. All top notch.
- Lume has excellent longevity.
- High quality Swiss movement with solid accuracy, components, and operation.
- Crisp bezel action, no unnecessary back play, feels rock solid.
- Outstanding fitted strap, rock solid and perfectly tight along case edge and across tops of lugs, wears comfortably. Along with precision-embossed logo and custom clasp there are few players in this space with such a complete, finished look.
- Packaging is sophisticated and practical. The additions of signed ZULU and leather straps for pre-order customers are welcome added value and offer a broad range of looks right out of the box.
- You are getting a lot of watch regardless of which colorway you choose.
- Seconds hand could use more lume, although this may require a different hand design to accommodate more paint volume.
- Detents between crown positions are quite small, can be tricky to get the second (date) position.
- While solid and precise with no extraneous play the bezels are somewhat tight to turn.
- The downside of such a precision fit with the fitted strap is that it can be tricky to re-install.