Speaking of spring bars and threaded lugs..... other options? - Page 2
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  1. #11
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    Re: Speaking of spring bars and threaded lugs..... other options?

    My nfw Shumate has hex screws and bars, for each link and the watch head. It makes changing straps and resizing extremely easy, and this thing is never going to fail like spring bars can.

  2. #12
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    Re: Speaking of spring bars and threaded lugs..... other options?

    I'm still curious about the spring bars that are used with drilled through lugs. Are they in some way better or more secure than the squeeze in and spring out into the solid lug design?

    IS the only difference ease of changing straps, or is it a mechanically stronger designed pin?

  3. #13
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    Same spring bars, but drilled lugs allow you to change the pins in about 0.00003 of a second. They are great. Just a shame so few watches have them.
    Davidka likes this.

  4. #14
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    Re: Speaking of spring bars and threaded lugs..... other options?

    Okay, Had to bail on that last post with business issues popping up! Back now to finish.

    I have seen screw type lug-bars in several different configurations. Not all are equal. I have seen stainless threaded rods through one lug and screwed into the opposite threaded lug. This style has admittedly come loose on me a couple times in a decade or more. Simple process to just tighten them up. It's always a concern to over tighten the threads into a lug for fear of cross threading them. It's also a bit easier for the friction of the strap to work the threaded rod around because that rod cannot spin without coming loose. Also, a concern with dissimilar metals and a marine environment in the case of brass or bronze and a Stainless steel lug bar screwed into another type of metal. The Stainless steel is far stronger than brass and bronze and would easily be the winner in the thread war with frequent tightening and removal. The replaceable part becomes the dominant mechanical piece. Not a winning combination without great care!

    I have also used two piece screw lugs. Both slide through slightly larger lug holes and allow the bar to rotate as needed. These have never even one time come loose on my watches. They are stainless steel going through a bronze watch lug. This is a brilliant design. However, not without a concern. The smaller of the two stainless steel pieces is small and needs to be changed in a controlled situation to prevent losing this very small screw. It also requires two small hex head wrenches. The advantage of the hex is no slipping out and scratching the lugs. On this particular watch, I need to use a thin pin to push the long lug bar out. I have never been able to get that bar out by shaking or strap wiggling. My thought about this is that even with the small screw end unscrewing and falling out, that long lug bar has never come out and requires effort to get it out. I think this is mostly due to the strap "grabbing it" and holding it in place. With a bracelet, this would clearly be an easier slip out design. On a dive watch with rubber or leather, it's a very high friction connection preventing it from just falling out.

    Oddly that makes the snug rubber dive strap design the opposite effect on the one piece threaded rod which it is possible to unscrew as it flexes up and down grabbing the threaded rod. The third design is two small screws on each end with a threaded female ended bar ( both ends of bar female threaded holes). This is a horror show of epic proportions. Every person who says they do not like threaded bars most likely has experienced this engineering nightmare. With the slotted screws, the tool slips out easily and will scratch the lugs. Worse than this is that the lug rod will rotate and eventually work loose the tiny end screws. On the one and only watch I had with this design, I epoxied one screw in place and then only use blue Loctite on the opposite side. Even then these screws would eventually come lose. Not to mention such a pain to rotate straps. It was eventually just used with a single strap style permanently.

    In the end, I chose a rubber strap and epoxied both screws in place. Never to take that strap off. I ordered replacement lug bars and screws and would have to cut off the strap and snip out the bar to replace them and the strap. I cannot even recall what I did with that watch, but I no longer have it.

    I share these experiences to show that not all spring bar designs are equal, nor are all threaded lug bars. My preference is with the two-piece stainless steel hex head design. This will rotate within the lugs and with a properly fitted snug strap ( not a bracelet) it will not allow the threaded long bar to slip out easily.

    Just as a bracelet with solid end links machined to a tight clearance fit between the lugs provides substantial additional twist reduction as the end links cannot twist out from between the lugs. My Omega Seamaster has this type of connection and it's a brilliantly strong and reliable design. If I chose to use a leather strap on this watch it would lose tremendous integrity as now the spring bar alone is responsible for that connection, not the tight fit of the titanium solid end links.

  5. #15
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    Re: Speaking of spring bars and threaded lugs..... other options?

    The point is that you can lose the watch... on purpose, so you don't lose your hand or arm... if it's expensive it should be insured, if it's cheap then get another one...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  6. #16
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    Re: Speaking of spring bars and threaded lugs..... other options?

    JJHACK1, a solution to most of the problems you cite above with threaded bars of any type are Panerai style tubes inserted into the strap prior to attaching.

    This allows the strap to swing about the pivot easily with little or no stress on the bar preventing loosening, not to mention stiffening up the entire affair quite substantially.

    These are usable with both drilled lugs and/or any type of threaded springbar -alas they are not without peril. I have seen people try to use tubes on a conventional springbar setup and while they are installed quite easily, most realize in short order that to now remove the strap, the entire strap, tube, and bar now need to be CUT OFF the watch to facilitate removal. There is now no longer any access to insert your springbar removal tool as the tubes close up the gap quite nicely ... and somewhat permanently.

  7. #17
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    So these tubes are the ticket for drilled through lugs!

    Sounds fantastic! Now where to acquire these tubes?
    Pallet Spoon likes this.

  8. #18
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    Re: Speaking of spring bars and threaded lugs..... other options?

    The solution is

    Lug holes + shoulder less spring bars (they go deeper into the hole) + NATO strap (terry @toxicnatos makes some great ones).

    Otherwise if you want your spring bars to withstand the zombie apocalypse just get a military watch with fixed bars.

  9. #19
    Member Pallet Spoon's Avatar
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    Re: Speaking of spring bars and threaded lugs..... other options?

    Quote Originally Posted by JJHACK1 View Post
    So these tubes are the ticket for drilled through lugs!

    Sounds fantastic! Now where to acquire these tubes?
    Ebay is your friend ;) . Input "watch strap tubes" and you should get many results in 22mm and 24mm.


  10. #20
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    Re: Speaking of spring bars and threaded lugs..... other options?

    Springbars are a dated design IMO.

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