Feedback sought for Prototype Watch: EHF Pilot Mk.I

[shawnehf]

Hi All,

Quick introduction on myself. I am part of a group of watch enthusiasts and watch makers who have put together our first watch as a group.

Attached are some photos of our first production prototypes. Not for sale. Pretty much for family and friends to play around with, before we decide whether we want to take it to the next level. But would also like to get some feedback and comments from the forum on areas such as design, specs and other ideas.

Do let me know what you guys think!

Thanks all,

Shawn

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Specs:
Case Material: Stainless steel with DLC coating, sapphire back
Movement: Soprod 6498, Cotes de Geneve finishing, blue screws, individually straight grain bridge angle and black rhodium plating
Crystal: SapphireCase size: 44mmCase height: 10.33mm
Dial: SDG dial with enhanced Superluminova C3 markers
Strap: (TBC) display shows black leather strap, but thinking of of brown Icelandic fish leather (dressy look) or Italian made white rubber strap (sporty look)
Notes: 100% Swiss parts, assembled by Swiss watchmakers

Pictures

[Drop of a Hat]

I REALLY like it. Well done.

[shawnehf]

I REALLY like it. Well done.

Hi Drop of a Hat,

Thanks much for the show of support! It was a work of love and we were excited to finally get them out! Looking forward to seeing happy faces when our friends start trying them out.

Our guys are already planning a Techno version using Swiss quartz movement - probably will be one of few DLC coated watches going at USD400; and we are in the process of putting together a titanium cased automatic and a sand-blasted classic watch which will see substantial amounts of hand modification (at least 30+ man hours work) to its 6498 movement to add to our portfolio. If you are interested, I can give you a heads up when we have pictures of those ready!

Anyway, I got a question from a member of another forum. Thought I might share the thread with you (see below) to give you a sense of who we are and how we have been doing it.

Cheers

Shawn

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Question

Is that a stock ebauche or have you all modified/finished the movement yourselves?

Answer

Good question! Indeed, the 6498-2 movement is a very stable and mature technology that is widely used in the Swiss watch industry.

In our case, we have made substantial modifications requiring high hand touch which gives it that special edge. This includes hand disassembling the barrel, gear train and balance wheel by hand. We also bevelled the edges of the bridges by hand. We don’t use machines but we use the traditional ways of hand finishing with peg wood and our special polishing paste. Once the finishing is done, we plate the bridges with Black Rhodium in-house. Assembly usually takes half a day per piece because we have to take apart the balance, the incabloc and we have to do timing all over again. We are very confident no other micro brands undertake such modifications and finishing by hand because it is simply too time-consuming.

What we have offered here is usually found in very high end watches only. We envision and are able to sell our pieces at very competitive prices for two key reasons.
- First, our business model is designed to bring independent watch making to the masses. We believe its not fair that other micro-brands simply take a Chinese manufactured watch case, buy a USD2 dial, USD3 hands and pop in a prepared 6498 movement for EUR700; hence our desire for the hand touched value add.
- Second, our operational model is very lean hence allowing us to pass cost savings to our customers. On that related note, you may find it interesting that our team at EHF consists of watchmakers currently working at the big brands. In our workshop, we have contracted work to build minute repeaters, hand built tourbillons, chronographs, silicium escapements and so on. Our watchmakers are on board EHF because its simply unfair as they feel it unfair that they are paid very little for the work they do, while their employers rip customers off with their “supposed” in-house construction.

You can find pictures of our assembly process here at: Hand Touched - EHF Horlogère

I hope this answers your question.

Shawn

[CADstraps]

The effort is great, but the watch is pretty boring - there are countless 6498 variants out there, and this one does not really offer anything new or exciting.

[shawnehf]

Hi CADstraps,

Thanks for acknowledging that the effort is great. It was something which we all just wanted (and needed) to do.

We are currently limited to a single colour because we spent quite a lot of time preparing the demonstrators for our representatives. We are essentially watchmakers and not designers; and hence we did what we do best - which is to modify the movements and to hand finish them. On that note, we would appreciate your input on how we could make the watch less boring and yet keep the prices below USD 2000 on average? We really are open to such ideas because in our workshops, all we ever do is build complications such as minute repeaters and tourbillons. While that is definitely not boring, the reality is that not many people really get to own and really appreciate them. Besides, the big watch companies only pay us about USD 10,000 per piece on average to construct them while they sell it off for USD100,000+. We do have an in-house movement planned with an independent watchmaker, but no matter how we looked at it - we find it difficult to keep prices below USD 12,000. And that's even if we sub-contract 50% of the movement parts to Asian manufacturers. Anyway, I digress.

Back to the topic, we are looking at pushing out more colours and more case options over the next few weeks. And at the sub USD 2000 price range, that's about all we can do. That said, our difference compared to other players in the same price range is that they will never take apart stock movements and hand finish them like we do. It's simply too costly and time consuming, especially since each watch takes about 18 hours to modify (disassembly, bevelling, plating, re-timing and re-assembly etc). We are very sure no one else does this below our price, since we are based in Le Locle and in the heart of Swiss watch making.

We hope everyone keeps the comments coming though! It's really useful for us to keep on improving. I mean, I think our nearest competitor with a DLC case, hand finished movement, rhodium plated bridges, Swiss-made dials and full sapphire crystal is quite far off (upwards) compared to our price. We really don't think it's fair for others to pay so much for the very same thing we are offering.

Warmest regards,

Shawn

[Wannaduck]

I wouldn't call it boring, but would call it basic....and there are many expensive watches out there that are basic.
Some folks like it simple without too many busyness, while others may find it plain/boring.
You just need to find out which market you'd target...or what your preferences are.

It is excellent work though.

[shawnehf]

Thanks for chiming in. There's definitely a quiet pleasure in the simple things in life!

[The Guvnah]

I like the company ethos particularly Shawn, as for the design, understated simplicity definitely has its place and is much to be admired (but then I'm English!) if I want a wow I can simply flip the watch over and admire the work done.

The Guv

[shawnehf]

Hi Guv,

Thanks for the positive comment and you sum up exactly what we aim to do and want to do very very nicely.

EHF actually stands for functional watch company in French. Our team in Le Locle actually builds so many complications for the big brands, that they feel it is now just too cliché. On the other hand, it is not as simple to build a basic and simple watch with that right balance between form and function that can stand the test of time. We envision our watches to be worn everyday and in almost every kind of situation, but a hidden element of sophistication when you flip the watch over. It's not meant to be a watch to be shown off or bragged about, but for the quietly confident person desiring a simple watch with a touch of wow for themselves.

With warmest regards

Shawn

[shawnehf]

Dear All

Wanted to share the launch of our EHF Live! Blog. One of the things that bugs our watchmakers is the stark difference between what is portrayed by the marketeers and the harsh realities of the industry. Take for example, the romanticization of the watchmaker by many brands. We can tell you, staring you down and without blinking an eye, that the reality is very very different. Most watchmakers are not very well paid at all and the role of watchmakers are being replaced by mass production processes across the board. As a small shop with strong artisanal leanings, we have made it one of our aims to demystify watch making for the general public (we'd like to think we are doing a "Magic's Biggest Secrets Revealed" to the watch making industry) through our blog maintained by one of EHF's less tech-phobic watchmakers. (and yes, most watchmakers have problems using the computer. sad but true)

Shawn and the EHF Team
Website http://www.ehf.horlogere.com
Facebook EHF Horlogère | Facebook
Blog EHF Horlogère - EHF Live!

P.S.

An extract from our post on how cheap it is to make a 6498 watch (http://www.ehf-horlogere.com/2/post/...8-watch.html):

I think many would consider this as a suicidal move for a new startup company but we disagree. We are confident of what we are providing to buyers and we feel strongly that buyers should know what goes into the prices of watches. Many many watches out there are simply overpriced and for some, they use the most convenient sources to put together a watch and sell them for thousands of dollars.

So, instead of telling you what is really not very nice or unfair, let us give you a walk through on how to assemble a "Swiss Made" pilot watch on the cheap.

STEP 1 : Pick a movement.

We recommend movements from ETA. They are the most common type and in case you're stuck in assembly, google the problem ! The answers are all over the internet !



STEP 2 : Pick a dial

Pick any dial for the pilot that fits the movement.



STEP 3 : Pick hands

Make sure that they are meant for the right movement. Ebay is a wonderful place to get parts nowadays !



STEP 4 : Pick a case

Again, make sure its for the right movement. Email the sellers to ask about them. They are usually very helpful.



STEP 5 : Buy some tools

We took this picture from Otto Frei's website. ( Frei & Borel - 1-510-832-0355 )They are really a wonderful online shop to get watchmaking tools. Their prices are very good even though they are all the way in the US. Tools are not cheap to buy even in Switzerland and we're saying that even though the Bergeon Swiss Headquarters is only a 15 minute walk from our little atelier.

*Disclaimer : We are not affiliated to Otto Frei in any way. We just did a random search on Google and they came up quite alot. Horotec, Bergeon and AF Swiss are all in a 5km radius from where we are in Le Locle.



STEP 6 : Put it all together.

Its not rocket science. The screws only fit in certain slots and if you're stuck in any way, just google the web and you can find answers.
I hope this has been helpful and a gauge of what we are offering. Its easy to slap together a pre-packed movement straight from ETA factories into a watch case. And certain brands out there do just that and they sell you the watches for thousands. We don't do that. We take our time and we are doing this because we find it fun as well. Our profit margins are not great at all but hey, someone has to kiss and tell !