--- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA --- - Page 58
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Thread: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

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  1. #571
    Member bearwithwatch's Avatar
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    Quote Originally Posted by Dodgydruid View Post
    Knowing some of these movements, Vostok didn't move far with much of its movements as its a kinda "if it works don't fix it" outlook so I imagine the 2431 isn't going to be much different from its predecessors, maybe look to the 2416 is it auto for ideas on the automatic works but Vostok followed convention and I was quite surprised how disassembling one of my 1940's Boctok's how similar it is to a 2234 or 2209.

    There is an American on youtube called Ratfacedgit or Ratfaced_git who has delved into quite a lot of Russian movements. I would also ask Vostok direct if you can contact them if they have a dealer's schematic or workbook you could download, I did this with one of my higher end Miyota powered watches and the chap there sent me a few pdf's on how to do just about everything on that watch so you could be lucky.

    Whenever I get stuttering on my 2414 movements, I pull the little "elbow" off and give it just a little more pressure and the stutter goes.

    It sounds like a recent watch, is it not covered still by warranty?

    Vostok does do quartz ones, seen a few Cardi, Century Time with quartz suspecting the ubiquitous Miyota 2115 that seems to live in so many quartz pieces.

    Quote Originally Posted by BreaksThings View Post
    Look back a few pages... There are some discussions on stem seating issues that stop the watch just as you describe. I was involved in the conversation if you want to search for my username to help filter the results.

    Thank you for your invaluable suggestions. Guess, this is going to be the assignment for this weekend.
    Matt_Bored_O likes this.
    Feel free to send me a private message if I don't respond to your question or comment.

  2. #572
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying / Modifying / Repairing VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    doh! duplicate post.
    Feel free to send me a private message if I don't respond to your question or comment.

  3. #573
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying and Modifying VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    All you need to know about BBI (Big Bezel and Insert) mods.

    PART ONE

    First acquire your Komandirskie.com bezel, like this.

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    Remove the old insert, the easiest way is to remove the 'pip' and then with a scalpel extract the old insert:

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    The bezel will be covered in old gum/glue..remove this with acetone/ thinners etc.

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    Now we know the overall OD (41.6mm) but we can now measure the ID's....39.4mm dia outer and 32.3mm dia inner after the upstand.

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    At last the info you're looking for...those sizes probably mean nothing to you, BUT to save you scratching your head, its the same size as replacement Seiko Turtle SRP bezel inserts.. i.e 32.5 ID and 39.1 OD, so if you want a BBI flat insert that sits lower on the plexi dome with little work, try someone like Crystaltimes for Turtle SRP insert.
    Matt_Bored_O, Kotsov and dfwcowboy like this.

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  5. #574
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    Re: --- A Guide: Buying and Modifying VOSTOK AMPHIBIA ---

    BBI PART TWO

    If your planned BBI mod requires a domed ceramic (or domed anodized) bezel insert, heres the guide.

    You WILL need a vernier caliper, a mini die grinder (I purchased mine from Lidl for about £15 a couple of years ago), small half round files for anodized inserts or diamond coated bits for ceramic inserts. This guide is for CERAMIC inserts, for anodized inserts use a file (but ensure not to drag a burr onto the seen face).

    First select an insert, I found a few on ebay ranging from 39.7mm OD to 40mm OD. Ensure the insert you have selected DOES NOT have numerals/markers that go to the inner or outer edges as you will be grinding some material away with your diamond coated bits in the die grinder. So heres the one I've purchased for this mod, a ceramic 40mm OD SMP style insert.

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    The ID (31.7mm) of this insert is to small to clear the upstand on the bezel, so first carefully grind of the central upstand/ spigot like this:

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    Next, its time to grind the OD of the ceramic, do this in a garage, or outside and wear glasses/goggles and a mask if you have one...you DO NOT want to be breathing a mixture of rock hard ceramic and diamond dust especially in an enclosed space!

    With a diamond bit in your die grinder, stick two three fingers through the inserts ID (with the seen face towards your arm, ie away from the die grinder) and whiz around the OD with your die grinder about twenty times. It doesn't take long (a couple of mins) and measure the OD, you will find you have only taken about 0.01mm off of the OD. This is because the glaze coat on the outside is extremely hard. So whiz around again (20 times), re-measure and your probably nearer to having taken 0.1mm off. Keep going, your target is just under 39.4mm but stop periodically and measure all around with your vernier to ensure its still round, if not grind the high points. Eventually after about 20 mins of grinding and measuring its ready. The bottom picture here shows the insert just BEFORE the correct diameter to drop into bezel was achieved.

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    Once your happy with your insert, clean it to removed dust and stick it into the bezel with whatever you use, (I use GS Hypo cement), I would not use a gum ring as it will push the insert up slightly on the outer edge.

    Next fit it to your Vostok! Top pic with a standard 38mm insert and 40mm bezel.

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    And here's the tool I used and the diamond bits (purchased again from LIDL for £2.29 or about $3 USD!).

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    And showing the insert face pointing AWAY from the die grinder (to actually grind it, I put a couple of my fingers inside the ID and spread them to hold the insert).

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    Last edited by Parkgate; 3 Weeks Ago at 21:59.

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