Today I'm working on an Elgin wristwatch I recently bought.
Initially, I had to repair the balance assembly, namely clean the hairspring of oil and put it back on the balance staff. Now - why was the hairspring off the staff - I ust don't know. I thought it was broken off at the collet, seeing the balance rotate freely, but no - it had been purposely taken off the staff...
Here's the movement disassembled to parts. I left the setting lever and clutch lever spring on the pillar plate, otherwise it's fully disassembled.
Thus, I had to begin with oiling and reassembling the balance bearings...
Elgin's balance cocks have a space milled down to fit the cap jewel setting. This makes it easier to work on - the cap jewel setting is well centered all the time and just needs rotating to align the holes...
I then reassembled the setting mechanism.
Elgin's setting mechanisms are quite friendly to assemble.
Because the setting lever spring - built in the steel setting bridge - is rather strong, I screw the bridge down (but not all the way down) first, and then energize the spring in setting position. Then I tighten the screws.
The watch has a simple gear train. There is an all steel Swiss double roller lever escapement, mirror polished.
Now - i put on the bridges and assemble the click.
Interestingly - I assumed the click spring should be against the first, longer tooth of the click, but no, it should be placed right between the teeth.
Or - at least - assembled like in the first (red crossed) picture, it won't work and the spring will jump of between the teeth again.
Anyhow - placed between the teeth, it works perfectly.
The movement nearly done.
All that's left is the motion works...
Assembled and running.
It's a bit of a mismatch - the solid gold bracelet and just gold plated watch, but it looks very good. And - also - I just don't have a strap at the moment, so - why not :) ?
Back to the 673 movement - it's a beauty and true engineering maestria. It's extremely thought of and refined.
Every time I work on a 20th Century Elgin (it's not so obvious in the earlier ones) - they are a true pleasure to work on, no matter on size and model.
This here is a basic model, but hides remarkable quality under plain, simple finish.
Conclusions? The more I have them, the more I adore them. Elgin rules (one might exclaim) !