How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?
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  1. #1
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    How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?

    Hey guys, not sure if this qualifies as vintage but I believe it to be the 70s or 80s? Anyhow I bought it for $15, I think it's real.... Domed crystal, probably sapphire, not one scratch. Strap is marked accordingly. Only dilemma is I can't get the back off, looks like the crown and stem may have to come out first? What are your guy's thoughts on this watch? If it is indeed real it is a beautiful piece for sure!!
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  2. #2
    Member Dan S's Avatar
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    Re: How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?

    Perhaps you have already tried this, but it seems the obvious strategy would be to pry it open by sticking a screwdriver in that huge opening in the back. I assume you want to replace the battery.
    Last edited by badbackdan; September 18th, 2017 at 05:00.
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    Re: How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?

    Spartcom5...certainly, the rather large recess on the back is there for a reason, or reasons...I would pluck up my Courage, and suggest that it's to allow a tool to be inserted that will allow the back to be removed...of course, it may be there to serve as a vent, to prevent the movement from overheating, or, perhaps, to allow a very tiny spaceship to hid from the Intergalactic Demons that are out to steal its' supply of rare eyebrow tweezers...but, these latter two possibilities seem---how to say--unlikely. Michael.
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    Re: How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?

    I tried to pry it open and there is no lip or anything to catch a tool on. I just ended up adding a few more scratches!

  6. #5
    Zenith Forum Co-moderator
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    Re: How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?

    That can't be vintage! - I saw a smartphone reflected off the crystal!

    Hartmut Richter

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    Re: How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?

    Maybe get one of those pointed pencil eraser caps, and jam a large flat screwdriver deep down in it, so you can get more friction and not scratch your nice watch.
    "A watch is ruined, not by time, but by bad handling. To run well it should be wound regularly, cleaned yearly, and, if injured, taken to a competent, practical man. A ​Waltham watch properly cared for will last a lifetime." -American Waltham Watch Co. Catalog (c) 1900
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  8. #7
    Member ManOnTime's Avatar
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    Re: How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?

    A front loader, perhaps?
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  9. #8
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    Re: How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?

    Ole Mathiesen is around for about 45 years I guess, so that puts the bottom line to the 1970s (they didn't make it, it's just their name on it). This type of quartz watch came later, so I would say from the mid 1980s onwards.

    And -for God's sake! - pry it open; don't scratch around, put the watch face down on a soft support or hold it firmly in your hand. Use something that gets below the lid into the space underneath (thin enough, a normal screwdriver might not work) and lever it up.

    If crown and stem have to come out first, we would be talking about a front loader, i.e. the glass would be lifted off, the movement taken out, then turned around to change the batteries, which would require to put it into a movement holder first in order not to bend the hands and then everything backwards. I guess, such a watch would never be sold or the watchmakers would all give up their job and work as gardeners or hot dog vendors...

    But I have a better idea, a much better idea. Go to a watchmaker or shop changing batteries, get a new battery and believe it or not, opening and closing comes with it as part of the overall price. Perhaps you can make an image of the movement there as well, most likely ETA-ESA 951.xxx.
    Last edited by Border-Reiver; September 19th, 2017 at 11:01.
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  10. #9
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    Re: How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?

    I got it open with a thinner screwdriver. Everything looks good to me!
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  11. #10
    Member Border-Reiver's Avatar
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    Re: How to get back off? Ole Mathiesen real deal?

    I don't know what type of lid you have here in the back. Some have a litte notch which has to go over the winding stem (some don't if they do not get in conflict with the stem and are away from it). Otherwise you might damage it when closing the case again or even cut it in half if you have to work with a case press (some watches don't close again when you cannot apply enough pressure with the fingers). Well, I guess there have been no problems of that nature.
    Last edited by Border-Reiver; September 19th, 2017 at 23:24.

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