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Newcomer seeking advice for beginning collection

2K views 32 replies 14 participants last post by  typ73 
#1 ·
Greetings, I am a newcomer to WUS, having joined and utilized the site for research over the past couple of weeks. I'm quite impressed with the community here-certainly the resources and knowledge available, but also especially the gracious tenor toward one another and particularly novices like myself. This is my first posting.

I have set my mind on beginning a vintage watch collection and would appreciate some advice and insight as I get started. First, I have occasion to wear a variety of styles, though my personal taste is definitely never trendy or loud. Second, I am only looking for affordable pieces at this point (preferably ~$100, maybe up to $300 depending on the item). Third, while I would eventually like to "specialize" in a certain brand/movement/period etc., I would first like to build an eclectic collection, with a few watches from various countries and time periods. Fourth, I really appreciate watches and brands that have some kind of historical significance, (Vulcain Cricket, e.g.).

Based on my recent reading and searching, I've compiled this list of some reputable brands and their respective source countries which (I believe) are consistent with my parameters:
Swiss: Longines, Enicar, Tissot, Favre Leuba, Vulcain (Cricket), Girard Perregaux​
German: Certina, Alpina, Dugena, Junghans​
Japanese: Seiko​
American: Benrus, Hamilton, Elgin​
British: CWC (Swiss made), Smiths​
Russian: Pobeda, Vostok, Raketa, Poljot, Sekunda​
Indian: HMT​

I'm open to collecting these watches in any particular order, opportunistically. My strategy is to begin looking in earnest for pieces on my list and vet them through the WUS community before pulling the trigger. I would love to hear from some of you in terms of...
• other countries/brands/specific watches I should add to my list?
• any on my current list that are unadvisable to consider?

Thanks!
 
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#2 ·
Welcome to Watchuseek! For a start, I will permit myself a slight correction: Certina is Swiss (from Grenchen), not German.

Of the brands you mention, G-P is an absolute minefield. Lots of fakes and frankenwatches about out there. Vulcain Crickets in decent condition won't be cheap either and will almost certainly go to the upper end of your budget and probably even surpass it. And please remember that any watch - whether a cheap, no-name, ETA movement watch for 25$ or a Vulcain Cricket for 300+$ will need a service, and that will set you back another 100$ or so. If it doesn't need a service, it won't be 25$ or 300$ respectively, it should cost rather more.

I am afraid that it will come down to the individual watch in question. Post some piccies before you buy it, ask the people here and you will get great advice. Good luck!

Hartmut Richter
 
#3 ·
I'm a Certina fan so I say go out and find a original DS from the late 50's early 60's as they are a mile stone in watch history and they are really nice watches and feel solid on the wrist. If you are collecting rather then buying to wear then anything that you like the look of goes.

There is a following of lesser brands like Atlantic, Olma, Laco, Onsa etc etc that used generic movements from the big movement makers and these are generally much cheaper then bigger brands but just as fun.

I'm a junk buyer myself but can now and then get my grubby hand on some nice watches and I never ever buy a watch for more then $100 and that much money is rare for me to spend.
 
#29 ·
I'm a Certina fan so I say go out and find a original DS from the late 50's early 60's as they are a mile stone in watch history and they are really nice watches and feel solid on the wrist.
I'm looking at this Certina DS:
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The seller (a Certina fan himself, he says) lists it as the first DS model, recently serviced, and describes it as being in very good condition. He's been helpful and forthcoming with communication about the watch. What do you guys think? Price you'd expect? Specific questions I should ask the seller?

The same seller has one other watch that appeals to me-a 1975 Dugena-Matic:
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#4 ·
I suggest narrow down your search and concentrate on one or, perhaps two brands. This will help you get to know them, what looks right (not a franken) and what's good value for money. As you gain more knowledge you can start to diversify a bit.
Welcome to the forum.
 
#5 ·
There are many similar threads started by people who want to make a start in vintage watch collecting, they are worth referring to.

Also, Sekonda is a British importer and distributor of watches, who sell watches under their own brand regardless of the actual manufacturer. Before the dissolution - and indeed for a short while afterwards they sourced watches from the Soviet Union, so it's not really a manufacturer.
 
#6 ·
As to American brands, I guess you can count Bulova in as well.

Favre-Leuba? Bad idea. Mostly bad quality Indian redials. Quite often they have movements wrecked by long exposure to a mix of heat and humidity, which tends to mess up any non-waterproof watch, and with vintage watches, non-waterproof (on the contrary to what's written on the dial or the case... or on both) ones are the majority.

Tissot? Oh yeah. As a Tissot fan, I'd suggest looking for pre-1960 pieces, equipped with all sorts of derivatives of the good old calibre 27.

Under $300, you can also hunt for a Zenith. Got my 1948 cal. 126-5 for $200, so even if basic COA will cost $100, that's still within your budget.
Theoretically, in this range Omega is a viable option as well- but I wouldn't recommend that to anyone who just starts to collect watches, not with a clear conscience at least. One of the worst minefields that you can walk into. How many times have I seen a "just bought a vintage Omega" thread, and either I or someone else had to inform the OP that he's just bought a pile of rubbish... I hate to give anyone the bad news, so I won't recommend Omega.

I agree with Shum about Atlantic- that's a good option alright. Yeah, generic movements, but a wee bit above the average stuff- red gold plating, adjusted... And the early 1950s two-tone Worldmaster/Varldsmastarur is just one hell of a good-looking watch.

Certina... Another good idea- yeah, the DS is pretty much bulletproof. I own one non-DS Certina, a Club 2000 from circa 1976 (give or take a year), and I guess one can't go wrong with one of these either.

Seiko's perfectly fine, but don't buy one from India... Same goes for Enicar.

Raketa and Poljot? Rugged and reliable, and priced reasonably- at 20 bucks, even if you go wrong with one, it's not much of a loss. And the parts are dirt cheap. You can even get a stash of movements for a few bucks, and have a supply of parts for a lifetime.

BE CAREFUL WITH GIRARD-PERREGAUX! That's one of the all-time absolute favourites for the fakers... Redials, frankens... And, because of using almost exclusively generic movements, almost anything with a Peseux in it can be turned into a GP.

I'd also suggest Roamer- but again, stay away from the ones from India and China. OK, it's best to stay away from anything sold from the latter.

Another suggestion: Doxa. They're not perfectly safe from frankens and redials, sometimes obvious Chinese fakes. That said, same rules apply. I've been able to write a short guide to these watches- I've posted it in the Links & Articles section of this forum. It's not much, and it's still missing a lot of info, but I guess that it'll help you with the basics of identifying a pre-1966 specimen.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I would just have to add Waltham to your list. They've got lots of great history and can be found for good prices.
I would also agree with others about focusing one one brand for a while until you become more knowledgeable. A good brand for this would be Bulova - lots of interesting history and models with easily accessible parts and information.
Bulova - Vintage Watches - The History of Bulova | myBulova.com
* and I should add that Bulova has tons of cool names!
 
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#8 ·
Hartmut, thanks for the correction on Certina. I appreciate the word on servicing as well. I have factored the necessity of servicing, which is raises another question I had: is there a WUS thread or another outlet that provides a listing or database, as it were, of local reputable watch service providers? In my case, shops in Louisville?
 
#14 ·
Well it's certainly not "hard" to mess up with a Waltham, especially if you are given some pictures of the movement and can do a little research. (There can always be something unknown that is broken that only a watchmaker looking at the watch can find.) I personally would recommend anything before 1950 when they were still the American company that most people know. Now there are Swiss Waltham watches made after that, but they were only Waltham by name. Even still there are some interesting affordable Waltham watches that I wouldn't mind having only for their looks, but they aren't a high priority to me.
 
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#12 ·
I don't know anything about the watches you've mentioned. I'm just chiming in to welcome you to the world's biggest and best watch forum. I'm pretty new myself. I wish I'd consulted this particular forum when I purchased a watch off the bay not long ago. A Tissot that turned out to be redialed and done poorly at that! Anyway, good luck with this addiction, er hobby! And know that the folks here can help you in your search.
 
#13 · (Edited)
If you love vintage watches you can just focus on looks or style.

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Look at these never used beauties from the late 70's I got from the same closed down shop yesterday. All are different but drop dead gorgeous. The Mildia is Swiss with a good ETA movement so even if it was a generic brand it's of good quality and I will miss it as it's got such a nice silky body and it was a WOW moment when I first put my eyes on it. The Citizen is Japanese and they really went bling in the 70's and is great fun and has a nice look. The Yema is a Soviet made watch but this one was made for the international market so it doesn't say so on it and the movement has a good finish. They weren't that expensive in the day and were for us normal people that just wanted a nice watch.

All so different but yet so 70's.

Sorry about the rant but watches like this makes me tear up. :)
 
#15 · (Edited)
Dont want to tread on your toes,MKWS, but my experience with one Chinese dealer, has been all good. Ive bought a Titoni Airmaster from him and a 70s Roamer. Both a couple of years ago and vetted by my watch guy. The Titoni in particular keeps time within in seconds a day. And its so very beautifully designed. I would guess from the 60s. I cant speak for his stock now, as to authenticity, etc. I just dont want you to think all Chinese dealers are unethical in some way. I have no stock in his store or his success or lack of it, so I will give you the approx. name on flaybay...yblwatchstore. I think. The ybl is definite. Nor can I say hes kept his high standards. His price are higher now, but his stock is large and tends to be very straightforward models of many medium range brands. Jusy my 2 cents and GOOD LUCK. Regards, P&P
 
#17 ·
Just checked it- there isn't much wrong with the majority of his watches, but I'd stay away from the Breitlings that he sells...
 
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#16 ·
Hello buddy,
Starting a vintage watch collection can be a slippery slope to an empty bank account and hanging out with a lot of weirdos on the Internet [emoji851][emoji848]

But seriously a lot of good advice here

If you want to, send me a PM with your name and address and I'll send you a watch free to start your collection

Matt

Brought to you by HYPNOTOAD
 
#20 ·
mkws.....yes, to your Titoni question. Dont know how others feel about the brand. Im not certain if they made their own movements until the 50s or 60s or not. But its a question that can be answered by more knowledgeable WUSers. They are a little hard to find outside the Eastern part of the world though its possible for sure. I believe that is where they were marketed most heavily but not exclusively. Again good luck and Im going to google the brand right now to see what I can see. P&P
 
#22 ·
Wasn't me who asked about Titoni- the OP did.

I was only snorting at ybl's redialed (if only...) Breitlings.

As to Titoni, they indeed seem to usually be sold from Asia. Maybe that's like with Favre-Leuba and India- some brands just tend to focus on one or two markets, and either are not available anywhere else or they maintain a really small presence on other markets.
 
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#24 ·
Busmatt I am thinking of starting an omega collection so will pm my address lol . Like someone said accutron is a great watch made in the USA with a very interesting movement and can be bought at a good price esp off anticvirus think that's his eBay name, and also Hamilton from the same. French did some time pieces eg lip . Russian time pieces are super cheap and recommend a Vostok dive watch or if you would like a good chrono at a good price then Russian watches is a good way to go . Also seagull for Chinese movement.
P.s have been away from this forum for awhile (been in the Russian forum ) so hi people.
 
#25 ·
Good to have you back Joe, I'm glad to hear you're starting an omega collection, be sure to let me know how it goes [emoji6] I'm sorry but all mine are staying put at the moment, I just thought I'd help a newbie on the way and pass on some of the kindness that I've received on this forum

Matt

Brought to you by HYPNOTOAD
 
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#31 ·
I just thought I'd help a newbie on the way and pass on some of the kindness that I've received on this forum
What kindness, indeed! I returned home from recent travels to find a package from the motherland containing this handsome guy. What a treat as my first vintage watch, Busmatt.

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I don't yet have a tool to open the case and look more closely. Can anyone shed any light on this Invicta in terms of its approximate production year and movement?
 
#28 ·
Its a very frustrating situation when your in the market for say, a Favre Leuba. I wanted one for years, when I was still buying watches. And frankly still do, along with a very small chronometer. ( correction..if I stumble across a good 10 dollar deal, in a thrift or flay Bay I just might reactivate my addiction.... what my buddies at Vintage Watches Anonymous would say, I dont know ) But they were for the most part in India, redialed and who knows what else? So I was scared off. In my not so far fetched paranoia, I figured the ones I found for sale on Flay bay in England were imports from India either bought to be resold or family affairs. Watches redone in India and sent to a family member in the U.K. to be sold onward. Yeah, they were cheap enough for me to take a small $ hit, but the disappointment if they were to be trash?! So whats a guy to do, but steer clear. I think I will go to flaybay right now and see whats on offer, just for the thrill and tease of it all. Just my 2 cents of frustration. P&P
 
#30 · (Edited)
The DS you are looking at is not from the first generation but the second generation of the first generation. :)

The first generation had no turtle on the back and should have the 25-45 and not the 25-66 inside. It's really nice and is from around 1963. The turtle on the back are great fun though so if you like it go for it.

It would be nice with a serial number and sometimes it's on the inside of the case back but more often on the outside but then often worn away due to it being applied to shallowly.

The Dugena is one of those buy it if you like it watches and there are plenty of generic watches just like it. The nice thing with this one is that it's clearly marked with a Förster 226 movement and they aren't that common like AS and ETA versions and has a neat qiock set feature so ask if it changes the date every time when one fully pulls out the crown.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Looking good [emoji6] I think it's from the 50's/60's back then Invicta was a respectable brand and not the laughing stock they are today.

I can't remember the exact movement but it was a general good quality 15 Jewel of the period possibly an A Schild or ETA

I'm betting it won't be your last vintage [emoji6]

Matt

Brought to you by HYPNOTOAD
 
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