...And Why You Don't Take It.
I have a Hamilton 992E in a #9 case, which has...issues. The bow is bent, and the stem is messed up and I'm pretty much certain it's not the right one - the crown and stem slide up and down about 2mm.
On a whim, I bought a #10 case on Ebay, which would be correct for at least some years of 992E, and which I like better than I do the #9. (Critics will say that dismembering an original watch to make a merely correct watch is A Bad Thing. Mea culpa.) I got the case, and it's beautiful! I swapped the 992E into it, and it looked great! Except.... Screw marks. Two prominent screw marks, not in the right place for a 992E. Turned out I couldn't live with that. So I set about finding a 992b to put in it. Back to Ebay...
I ended up buying a movement from a year when the #10 case was sold, a dial appropriate to that time, and a set of hands, in three separate auctions, meaning the pieces came from 4 different watches. So, in the end, I paid about twice as much as it would cost to simply buy a 992b in its original #10 case, AND I supported sellers who take original watches apart to sell the components for a higher price, which is a practice I don't agree with.
But it turned out beautiful!
Here's the movement. Was impressed with the quality, which, honestly, seems quite a bit higher than the contemporary Elgin 478, though perhaps the better comparator would be the Elgin 571.
I was surprised to find that the jewels in the bridges were in gold settings. Later 992Bs had brass settings.
Also, keen eyes will note there's a pallet bridge screw missing. I sourced one of those from Ebay, too, bringing the number of source watches up to 5.
Anyhow, I've learned my lesson - the roundabout way to put together a watch you want is also by far the most expensive way to get there.