Vintage Watch Suggestion

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  1. #1
    Member pala10's Avatar
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    Vintage Watch Suggestion

    Hi All,

    Can someone suggest to me a vintage time piece that fits the following criteria:
    - Dark dial (black or gray)
    - Manual wind movement only
    - Less than 38mm diameter
    - Less than 12mm thick
    - Date display (not required, more nice to have)
    - Black or Brown leather strap
    - Under $400
    - Dressy rather than sporty
    - Chronograph if possible (not required, more nice to have)

    Brand is not important but would like to avoid Russian manufacturers if possible.

    Thanks
    Last edited by pala10; November 20th, 2012 at 22:44.
    cheers, daniel

  2. #2
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    Re: Vintage Watch Suggestion

    "Chronograph" and "date" practically exclude one another in a vintage watch, as do "chronograph" and "12mm in height". Most vintage watches are <38mm across so that is no problem. At manual winding, the height should not be either. One problem is the dark dial: rare in older dressy watches and when it comes in a brand name (Omega, JLC, etc.) it is often a redial with the original being lighter.

    Once you put all that together, there should be plenty of small name stuff out there with most of those specifications and with decent generic movements (ETA, Adolf Schild, FHF.....). And at rather lower cost than your 400 bucks. Bear in mind though that you will have to spend another 100 bucks or so on a service - most of the bargain stuff hasn't seen the watchmaker in years - and that the watch will be anything but waterproof.

    Hartmut Richter

  3. #3
    Member pala10's Avatar
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    Re: Vintage Watch Suggestion

    Quote Originally Posted by Hartmut Richter View Post
    Bear in mind though that you will have to spend another 100 bucks or so on a service - most of the bargain stuff hasn't seen the watchmaker in years - and that the watch will be anything but waterproof.
    Hartmut Richter
    I 100% assumed a service would be needed, the grand total I want to spend before being able to wear the watch is roughly $500-$550 including servicing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hartmut Richter View Post
    "Chronograph" and "date" practically exclude one another in a vintage watch, as do "chronograph" and "12mm in height".
    Hartmut Richter
    If I see a watch that has either and fits all other criteria then I'll buy it. Either/or would be nice to have but aren't required. That is some good advice you've given though, thanks.
    cheers, daniel

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  5. #4
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    Re: Vintage Watch Suggestion

    Is there a minimum size? There were quite some dark-dialled watches around in the 1950's, but they're usually between 32 and 34 mm in size. Also, you didn't specify the shape of the watch - rectangular watches look a lot bigger than circular ones on your wrist.

    Is manual wind a must?
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    Re: Vintage Watch Suggestion

    I found a nice '75 Tissot seastar day/date on the 'bay, it's now incoming. It is an automatic watch, however. I paid right about $100, and it was fully serviced a couple years ago so I should be good for another year-ish.
    There are plenty of nice Tissot vintage pieces out there, I'd take a peek in that direction.
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  7. #6
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    Re: Vintage Watch Suggestion

    Looking over all your criteria, I don't think a watch exists that will meet all of them, especially when you consider the cost of service on a vintage chronograph is at least $250 or more if parts are required.

    I once picked up a Clebar manual-wind no date chronograph in a small (~36mm) but worn chrome-plated case, with mint dial and Landeron cal. 248 movement, for less than your limit.



    My watch guy inspected it and said it was one of the nicest dials he'd ever seen on a watch of that era. Pretty accurate as well.

    Sometimes you can get lucky on eBay, sometimes not.
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  8. #7
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    Re: Vintage Watch Suggestion

    Gator, do you know the introduction date of the 248?

    Lovely watch BTW - I have a Britix with a 248 in similar condition - but I would guess a few years more recent.

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    Re: Vintage Watch Suggestion

    The Landeron 248 was likely introduced in the 60ies, looking at the watches with this movement.

    Here is a chronograph, that is exactly 12 mm thick and 38mm wide:



    Valjoux 23 in this case - just to prove that it can be done. But a bit beyond the price limit You have set. Look for Landeron and/or Valjoux 7733/7734!

  10. #9
    Member gatorcpa's Avatar
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    Re: Vintage Watch Suggestion

    Quote Originally Posted by trim View Post
    Gator, do you know the introduction date of the 248?
    This is the best information that I can find:

    bidfun-db Archive: Watch Movements: Landeron 248

    I think it was pre-1960, but not too far before.
    gatorcpa

  11. #10
    Member pala10's Avatar
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    Re: Vintage Watch Suggestion

    Quote Originally Posted by Tomcat1960 View Post
    Is there a minimum size? There were quite some dark-dialled watches around in the 1950's, but they're usually between 32 and 34 mm in size. Also, you didn't specify the shape of the watch - rectangular watches look a lot bigger than circular ones on your wrist.

    Is manual wind a must?
    Minimum....I'd say 34mm. Circular would be preferred but I'm not against rectangular or square or tourneau.

    In fact, lets dropped the Chrono requirement. By the sound of it, this will make life easier.
    cheers, daniel

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