ever seen one of these? round date?
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  1. #1
    Member whywatch9's Avatar
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    ever seen one of these? round date?

    saw this one on the bay... very curious about their vintage vintage watches. I don't like them in terms of style, but I'm really curious how exactly did they go from that to all the interesting stuff just few years after. was there one designer or design house that can take all the credits? there's no link between the line and the lines came after. if the logo weren't the same, it's hard to believe they were made by the same company. whoever put out all the lines that we called "vintage", are they still making watches?

    Men
    Last edited by whywatch9; July 2nd, 2013 at 06:10.

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    Re: ever seen one of these? round date?

    Yeah, I've seen shots of this watch as well (very recently).

    Some of the vintage pieces appear quite bland and then, as you say, there seems to have been a real burst of creativity. I've touched on this before and I think many other forum members (such as Phunky-Monkey) would be really interested to hear the true back story...but I presume that to be quite unlikely at this point. I asked before if there was any mention in the Anonimo book...no one ever commented on the subject.

    There are many aspects to the historic pieces which are superb. I think I noted as an example that the case for the Glauco and Argonauta etc is superb (although the proprietary lug/strap design is limiting...it would be interesting to see this with more conventional lugs). I think if another better known brand had produced the case it would be regarded as iconic. The same applies for many other case details.

    At one point I presumed Dino Zei had played a serious role but watching some videos a few years ago it seemed he was sort saying he liked/appreciated some new designs but it did not appear as if he had played a role designing them (maybe approving only).

    That said I would guess that there isn't enough work for a full time designer of this calibre within Anonimo as such (though there must be a talented team to take them from renderings into production) but as the designs are evolved, sophisticated and assured I have presumed that Anonimo enjoyed a close relationship with with a very talented industrial designer who then steered the aesthetic over a span of the latter years.

    Like you I would love to know the deeper background story...but it seems that promoting the designer is not that widespread in watchmaking circles.
    Last edited by DDD3333; July 2nd, 2013 at 16:16.
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    Member whywatch9's Avatar
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    Re: ever seen one of these? round date?

    Quote Originally Posted by DDD3333 View Post
    ...but it seems that promoting the designer is not that widespread in watchmaking circles.
    When Jaeger launched master compressor series, the lady designer got mentioned a lot. Now she is responsible for the Ball for BMW and that was mentioned often too. I guess there are several marketable/established designers out there, george daniels, ludwig oechslin, just to name a few; and only these respected few summons the marketing dollars and public recognition. Now that I think about it, it's probably true in all merchandizing industries. We ask more about the brand and not the designers; however from time to time someone's name will get mentioned for reasons like winning an award or crazy popularity on item designed. The real motivation behind this fascination is that if a person or a team made all the vintage anonimo possible, maybe that's where we should expect to find great fun watches again in the near future. It could all just be great timing that's all, but if it's done once i'm sure it can be reproduced again~ like to keep my hopes high.

    thanks for holler back, DDD. Always nice to read your post~

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    Re: ever seen one of these? round date?

    x
    Last edited by DDD3333; July 4th, 2013 at 05:17.

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    Re: ever seen one of these? round date?



    Whywatch9

    “The real motivation behind this fascination is that if a person or a team made all the vintage anonimo possible, maybe that's where we should expect to find great fun watches again in the near future”.

    Could not agree more!

    Your noting Magali Metrailler and her designs for the Ball/ BMW collaboration (as well as JLC) was a great choice to cite as an industrial designer with specific focus and flair for watches (though my personal opinion is the marriage between watch companies and car companies will always remain an uncomfortable fit in spite of the enthusiasm to shoehorn the union ad nausea).

    One telling aspect of the reaction during the launch is that both Ball and BMW made a point to introduce her as the key player/ingredient in the collaboration. Almost without fail though, when the launch was reported virtually every blog and magazine failed to mention or credit her role –she was all but deliberately left out of the picture (one of the only reports on a blog about Metrailler was tellingly written by a woman). So the media definitely fail to give credit to designers when they could pay a key role in raising their profiles.

    Frankly I think the watch world is a little adverse to the idea of ‘star’ designers and they might have cause (though blame can be laid at their feet as much as the designers).

    The designers I admire the most are contemporary furniture designers for the likes of B+B Italia, Moroso and Living Divani etc. More often than not they are qualified architects first, who not only design spaces but have a distinct flair to design pieces which inhabit said spaces. Further to this they often design lighting, bathroom fixtures, hardware and ceramics through to complete houses and hotels.

    From time to time some have been commissioned to ‘design’watches and without fail the pieces are all but dead on arrival. I think this due to one of two reasons- the first being that the design talent does not translate (in the sense none of these designers has ever produced an engaging car design either).

    The second reason is simply ego – a designer wishes to make an impact so produces an idiosyncratic, quirky design to make a statement. (PhillipeStarck is the past master of producing sublime products and utter nonsense with equal ease). Contrary to what they think, watch design in terms of public acceptance is fairly conservative. The best case scenario is the watch is regarded as fashion or a novelty item. Unfortunately, manufacturers in this scenario fail their due diligence as well. They fail to establish whether a given designer is truly passionate about watches (of course all claim they are as fees are involved). Subsequently, blinded by star-power, they compound the error by approving designs which they would not accept from a junior in-house designer. Invariably these watches fail at launch or shortly thereafter and all appear left baffled.

    If I ran a watch company I would use well known designers but would confirm beyond doubt they had passion for watches (cannot stress the obvious enough). Then, as with contemporary furniture companies, I would attempt to keep the initial design fees low but provide healthy royalties on actual pieces produced and sold. People are not generally aware that contemporary furniture pieces can sell by the thousand, sometimes tens of thousands of pieces providing the designer with huge royalties. I have not heard such a commission system is used within watch companies (though I stand to be corrected).

    I think it inevitable with time there will be a growing number of ‘star’ designers specific in the watch world – they would be great for marketing purposes and providing a brand with cache. I am not sure the tradition of failing to shine spotlight on designers (in general) has been anything more than a ruse to keep their earning power (and therefore cost) restricted.

    Back to Anonimo….

    To repeat myself (ourselves) I would love to confirm who steered the design through the creative, confident period for Anonimo- how much was in house or external? Following this, with a presumption that these individuals are no longer involved with the new Anonimo, I would love to know what other companies and products they are currently associated with.

    A clear and unique design vocabulary was on display at Anonimo. If for now, it has been lost/subjugated within the new Anonimo it surely will emerge somewhere else in the watch world!




    Last edited by DDD3333; July 4th, 2013 at 10:52.
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