CTL1616 "failure"
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  1. #1
    Member HoosierTrooper's Avatar
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    CTL1616 "failure"

    A commonly asked question is how long does the rechargeable battery in a G-Shock last, and the usual answer is that no one really knows for sure. Here is what happened to one of mine, which probably doesn't really say a lot about the normal life expectancy of these batteries but I thought I'd share. I bought a used GW-6900 from the bay a few months ago, and it has a J date code so it was produced in 2010, which obviously means the battery has been in service for 5+ years. Of course I don't know the history of this watch prior to me getting it, but I'm going to assume this is the original battery.

    Since I've had it the battery level has remained on high until a couple weeks ago I got it out to wear and noticed it was on mid. Since then I have put it outside on sunny days several times, and also on cloudy days as well. I can estimate conservatively that it has been out in full sunshine at least 25 hours and at least that many on cloudy days. The watch has not moved off of mid during all of that time.

    I ordered a new battery and put it in the watch today. It was on "chg" and flashing so I set it in the sun and in a matter of a few minutes it went to high. I don't know how much these batteries are charged at the factory, or how long the watch has been setting around waiting to be put to work, so I'm going to let it set out in the sun for awhile just to top it off.

    I suppose there could be a problem with the charging system in the watch, and the battery that was in it might still be good but the watch isn't properly charging it. I won't know that for awhile until the new one drops to mid and needs charging, which could be a long time.

    So, this battery "seems" to have lost its ability to hold a full charge after 5+ years of service, but I also realize that there are a couple of unknown variables that might have affected the normal life of the battery.
    Watch_Geekmaster likes this.
    Tom


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  2. #2
    Member Mike K's Avatar
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    Re: CTL1616 "failure"

    Nice write-up! Hopefully it's not a problem with the charging circuit.

    Quote Originally Posted by HoosierTrooper View Post
    I don't know how much these batteries are charged at the factory, or how long the watch has been setting around waiting to be put to work, so I'm going to let it set out in the sun for awhile just to top it off.
    According to this thread, the new battery should have left the factory at about 80% full: https://forums.watchuseek.com/f17/rec...y-2521186.html

  3. #3
    Member xevious's Avatar
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    Re: CTL1616 "failure"

    When you buy a used watch, you have no idea how the watch was managed with regard to charging... because there's no visual cues. If someone had worn the watch for a while and then put it away for a long period of time that caused it to fully discharge, that would damage the battery. If it happened more than once, then that could have caused further damage. So the current behavior is not indicative of CTL-1616 battery life.

    I bought a SEIKO solar watch that was manufactured in 2009. When I received it the watch was on "M". I was able to charge it up to "H"... but then it wouldn't stay there long. So OK, I realized that I would have to eventually replace the battery, maybe in another year or two I'd make the effort. Well, after another month, the battery would become completely depleted. Charging wouldn't last more than a couple days. So it became clear that the battery was ruined.

    Meanwhile I have a number of solar watches that are 5+ years old and are running just fine, still showing "H".

    I think if you buy a used Solar watch and the battery exhibits some problems, it is just best to replace the battery.
    Last edited by xevious; February 27th, 2016 at 20:55.
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  5. #4
    Member GaryK30's Avatar
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    Re: CTL1616 "failure"

    Quote Originally Posted by HoosierTrooper View Post
    I ordered a new battery and put it in the watch today. It was on "chg" and flashing so I set it in the sun and in a matter of a few minutes it went to high. I don't know how much these batteries are charged at the factory, or how long the watch has been setting around waiting to be put to work, so I'm going to let it set out in the sun for awhile just to top it off.
    I don't understand why it went from CHG to High in just a few minutes. Is this normal when a battery is replaced? Because under normal operation it takes many hours of sun to go from CHG to High, probably around 25-30 hours.
    solar g-shocker likes this.

  6. #5
    Member Mike K's Avatar
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    Re: CTL1616 "failure"

    Quote Originally Posted by GaryK30 View Post
    I don't understand why it went from CHG to High in just a few minutes. Is this normal when a battery is replaced? Because under normal operation it takes many hours of sun to go from CHG to High, probably around 25-30 hours.
    That's a good question, along with 'why would a newly installed battery be at charge level 4, with the "CHG' indicator flashing?"

    My best guess for your question is "MAYBE the watch was showing a reading temporarily higher than the actual battery level, as many manuals indicate they can do?"
    Name:  false charge 2.jpg
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    I've never had a solar watch's charge level drop that low, but I wouldn't think it would go from "CHG" all the way to "H" that quickly.
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  7. #6
    Member HoosierTrooper's Avatar
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    Re: CTL1616 "failure"

    The GW-2310 that I posted about recently that had the CR2016 battery in it did the same thing when I put the new one in.
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    Tom


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  8. #7
    Member Mike K's Avatar
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    Re: CTL1616 "failure"

    Quote Originally Posted by HoosierTrooper View Post
    The GW-2310 that I posted about recently that had the CR2016 battery in it did the same thing when I put the new one in.
    I remembered the "wrong, non-rechargeable battery installed when you got it" but didn't remember that part! https://forums.watchuseek.com/f17/my-...a-2438130.html

  9. #8
    Member TRSCP's Avatar
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    Re: CTL1616 "failure"

    Weird....

    Have you removed the module yet to check out the charging springs on the front?

    My brain may be frazzled, but when you stick a new battery in, sometimes it shows CHG even if it's full/close to full but FIRST you've got to rip a nice quick AC reset and then it realzies the battery is fine.

    Brand of the battery that was installed when you got it? Can you ask the seller any questions regarding the watch's history? Might be some good things to check out.

    I refuse to give up on a lot of G-Shocks, haha.
    kcohS-G and soulbridgemedia like this.

  10. #9
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    Re: CTL1616 "failure"

    From my experience it takes a lot of sun to go from M to H. Cloudy days wont suffice. IMO it sounds a bit premature to have replaced the battery. I brought a solar G on vacation to Mexico and it took 3 days of intense sun to go from M to H. I was quite surprised. You just can't know where in the M range it's at. I can't recall but I think all functions work in the M range so you wouldn't have an indication if the battery was in the lower range.
    Neil


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  11. #10
    Member Mike K's Avatar
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    Re: CTL1616 "failure"

    Quote Originally Posted by solar g-shocker View Post
    I brought a solar G on vacation to Mexico and it took 3 days of intense sun to go from M to H. I was quite surprised.
    Was the watch on your wrist, or was it sitting in the sun on a hotel balcony?

    Quote Originally Posted by solar g-shocker View Post
    You just can't know where in the M range it's at. I can't recall but I think all functions work in the M range so you wouldn't have an indication if the battery was in the lower range.
    That's a common complaint around here since the "M" range is usually the largest of the five "charge levels" on these watches. When someone first gets a solar watch there's no way to tell if it's "'M" and about to drop to 'L'", or "in the middle of the 'M' range" or "'M' and just an hour of sunlight away from 'H'".

    Casio's solar battery meters are like driving an old car with a questionable fuel gauge with a sticky needle: everything works normally when you're over 3/4 of a tank, and under 1/4 of a tank, but you can drive around for days on 5/8 of a tank until you hit a bump and THEN the needle drops to 1/4.

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