Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)
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  1. #1
    Member Cognac0113's Avatar
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    Question Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)

    Hi all, I finally got hold of my intended daily beater for work, the GW-2310FB-1CR. I love huge Gs but they won't fit in the sleeves of my shirt. Bought a GDF-100-1B and sold it off because it's too big. I like the look of this, it's very stealthy, and small enough to fit nicely under the sleeve. And this is my first solar + atomic G. But now I have 2 questions about the watch.



    1) My bezel material is more plastic than resin. Can any GW-2310 owners shed some light on this..? It's like on the GAs and GDs you can immediately feel that the bezel and resin strap are of the same material. But this watch, the bezel is definitely 100% not the same as the comfortable resin. It feels more like cheap plastic. It looks perfect but just really doesn't feel right. Did I bought a watch where somehow the seller swapped the bezel, or for this model the bezel is made of this plastic-feel material..?


    2) I know my home city, SIN doesn't allow any manual or auto sync. But since it's the same GMT as HKG, I can set it as HKG and try to receive auto syncs and enable the manual sync function (there have been cases of Gs getting synced in SIN). But I travel quite a lot so let's say I get to New York. Will the watch still be able to sync if my home city is still set to HKG? Because I rather keep my home-city and toggle the world time, than to change the home city every single time I travel abroad.









    Some photos for deliberation on the bezel (note the circles on the bezel around the caseback. You get these like usually on plastic products during manufacturing):


























    I have a feeling this is the way the bezel is. Honestly, it doesn't matter to me because I'm intending it as a beater and I actually can't wait for it to get banged up. But the thing is it's disappointing if this is the actual bezel material. It absolutely feels like cheap and light plastic and has no elasticity like the resin. I really wanna know if Casio did such an arse thing to save $$.
    Last edited by Cognac0113; January 22nd, 2014 at 11:53.
    My Current Beater:
    Casio G-Shock: GW-2310FB-1CR



    -=[My Pelican 1495; Home for my Gs]=-



  2. #2
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    Re: Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)

    Seems fine with me! Looks legit!

  3. #3
    Member Cognac0113's Avatar
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    Re: Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)

    Quote Originally Posted by tech-hero View Post
    Seems fine with me! Looks legit!

    Yeah it's definitely 100% genuine because the module is perfect. But what I'm concerned is the bezel material that feels like cheap plastic. I wanna know if this model comes with this type of bezel, or did the seller swapped it. =) The bezel really feels awful.
    My Current Beater:
    Casio G-Shock: GW-2310FB-1CR



    -=[My Pelican 1495; Home for my Gs]=-



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  5. #4
    Member Cognac0113's Avatar
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    Re: Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)

    Bumping it up for expert advice~
    My Current Beater:
    Casio G-Shock: GW-2310FB-1CR



    -=[My Pelican 1495; Home for my Gs]=-



  6. #5
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    Re: Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)

    I know what you're saying about the cheapness feeling of the bezel. I have this watch too and I wonder why they chose a harder plastic type resin on this one. I'm sure the other watches they make with a similar bezel but have the cutouts where the squares are on this one looks like it would be the same material. Also the AWG-100 has a similar looking and feeling cheapness about the plastic they used. Not sure why they did that as it is one of the biggest gripes about that watch and probably why I never wear it. I bought an older Casio WVA-470 on eBay recently and I like it EXCEPT for around the end of the metal band where it meets the case, it turns to plastic and it is ugly grey plastic that stands out against stainless steel. I shake my head and wonder WHY?????????????

    Here's a picture of the one I was describing with the cutouts. I never liked the design as it looks like they took the GW2310FB and just hacked away on it and came out with this:



    In any event I'd be willing to bet my right kidney this is the same awful hard plastic type resin on this ugly watch as the GW2310FB.
    Last edited by tic-toc/g-shock; January 22nd, 2014 at 16:20.

  7. #6
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    Re: Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)

    just took a look at a spare bezel I have, yes, those rounded points are there, as for the material, isn't it the same as the ones in the DW-5600E at Walmart ? It's normal to me as I don't really care
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  8. #7
    Member Cognac0113's Avatar
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    Re: Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)

    Quote Originally Posted by tic-toc/g-shock View Post
    I know what you're saying about the cheapness feeling of the bezel. I have this watch too and I wonder why they chose a harder plastic type resin on this one. I'm sure the other watches they make with a similar bezel but have the cutouts where the squares are on this one looks like it would be the same material. Also the AWG-100 has a similar looking and feeling cheapness about the plastic they used. Not sure why they did that as it is one of the biggest gripes about that watch and probably why I never wear it. I bought an older Casio WVA-470 on eBay recently and I like it EXCEPT for around the end of the metal band where it meets the case, it turns to plastic and it is ugly grey plastic that stands out against stainless steel. I shake my head and wonder WHY?????????????

    Here's a picture of the one I was describing with the cutouts. I never liked the design as it looks like they took the GW2310FB and just hacked away on it and came out with this:



    In any event I'd be willing to bet my right kidney this is the same awful hard plastic type resin on this ugly watch as the GW2310FB.


    So your GW-2310FB has the same cheap plastic feel bezel? Well at least I know the seller didn't rip me off. I really like the watch but the bezel kills it. But then again, I'm just gonna enjoy it as it is.
    My Current Beater:
    Casio G-Shock: GW-2310FB-1CR



    -=[My Pelican 1495; Home for my Gs]=-



  9. #8
    Member Cognac0113's Avatar
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    Re: Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)

    Quote Originally Posted by G-fob View Post
    just took a look at a spare bezel I have, yes, those rounded points are there, as for the material, isn't it the same as the ones in the DW-5600E at Walmart ? It's normal to me as I don't really care

    I'm not too sure about the material of the DW-5600BB bezel, but it's definitely not the same as the usual 5600, 6900, GAs and GDs resin bezel. you should really be able to tell the difference. it's harder, lighter...less elastic...just like as described, cheap plastic.
    My Current Beater:
    Casio G-Shock: GW-2310FB-1CR



    -=[My Pelican 1495; Home for my Gs]=-



  10. #9
    Member computer_freak's Avatar
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    Re: Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)

    My GW-2310FB-1 also has a harder plastic bezel than my other G-Shocks. Feels less rubbery. And I too have the circles on the back of the bezel, but they seem better finished on my model.

    About the timezones, sorry, can't help you there.

  11. #10
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    Re: Help needed! 2 questions about GW-2310FB-1 (Authenticity and Atomic Signalling)

    I used to be a diecaster. those circle marks are from the pins in the die. The pins are pulled back from the cavity as the die closes, the material is injected into the mold, and when the die opens the pins are pushed forward to eject the casting from the cavity. They are usually on a "tree" with several made at once during the process.

    The line you show in the second photo is where the front and back of the die meet.
    Last edited by OCDood; January 22nd, 2014 at 22:50.
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