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3 watches - which would you choose and why

4K views 54 replies 39 participants last post by  Perseus 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, an opportunity has come for me to purchase my first "great" watch (woohoo!!). All the watches I've bought thus far have cost less than $2k. In about a year's time I will be the first member of my family to enter a university and as such I've been given the green light to procure a watch below $10k as reward. Being the good son I am, I've decided to reduce the budget by about $4k thereabouts so I can still get a pretty solid $6k watch plus pay for a family vacation and maybe a couple of dinners.

I'm looking for an automatic watch on bracelet that while not necessarily a 'beater', can still handle a fair amount of punishment (bangs against table tops, scratches). A chronograph function will be useful but not essential. I would also like a watch that I can swim with. I plan to go amateur diving someday so WR should be 200m<.

I've shortlisted 3 watches that I've been pondering over for awhile, but please feel free to offer your suggestions if there's a watch I should be looking at instead. Otherwise, I would love to hear which of the 3 you would pick and your reasons.

In no particular order:

1) Sea-Dweller 16600 (2nd hand) (http://www.watchblog.dk/pictures/gallery/16600/slides/20070625-210357.jpg)

Pros - I'll like to own a Rolex. WR is off the charts. It can take a beating and look better with age. It doesn't say Submariner on it (I love the Submariner but I've seen so many that I'd prefer something similar but different. It's a personal thing so I hope Sub fans don't take offence. It's also the superior Rolex diver.) In-house movement.

Cons - No other complication except date function. It may be hard to find a used one for $6k with all genuine parts (I think), and harder for one with box and papers.

2) Breguet Type XX Aeronavale (2nd hand) (http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/epZSEw-hy8Y/maxresdefault.jpg)

Pros - It says 'Breguet' on the dial. Flyback chronograph. It's the best-looking of the 3 imo. Archieluxury has one so it must be facking luxurious, fackers :-d. Also did I mention that it says 'Breguet' on the dial?

Cons - I don't like the Breguet bracelet so I'll have to change it. WR is only 100m. Technically not an in-house movement although technically it is (???). I think if I owned one I'll baby it a lot because it says 'Breguet' on the dial.

3) Breitling Chronomat 41 (NIB) (http://www.qpx.nl/media/basel_2011/breitling/breitling_chronomat41.jpg)

Pros - Chronograph AND 300m WR. Dad used to have a Chronomat when I was a kid and I remember playing with it so fond memories. In-house movement. Has the longest power reserve of the 3 at 70 hours. I can also get one new-in-box.

Cons - I've heard people say that it's too 'blingy'. The dial looks odd for me with the square-shaped detail that they're trying to pull off. I'll be picking a Breitling over a Rolex and a Breguet and in some quarters of this forum that's mad, very mad.

I've opted not to include a poll because I feel that your worded opinions are more informative than simply knowing which watch is most popular and which is least. So let me know what you think, leave your comments down below!
 
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#3 ·
You have fine taste, sir.

I would choose the SD. More durable and longer-lasting and possibly more versatile than the others too.
 
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#4 ·
Congratulations on the uni position!

I would choose the SD too because...I want one. I think you can find one in budget. It has the robustness and WR that you require. YOU like the Breguet most, but will baby it (which you don't want) and it doesn't have the WR you require. I don't think you want the Breitling - I think you're just finding a compromise.

So I think you need to make the choice of form (Breguet) or function (SD). How much beating and diving are you really likely to do?
 
#5 · (Edited)
Congratulations on the uni position!

I would choose the SD too because...I want one. I think you can find one in budget. It has the robustness and WR that you require. YOU like the Breguet most, but will baby it (which you don't want) and it doesn't have the WR you require. I don't think you want the Breitling - I think you're just finding a compromise.

So I think you need to make the choice of form (Breguet) or function (SD). How much beating and diving are you really likely to do?
Considering that the all-time record set in an experimental dive was less than half the SD's tested pressure rating, absolutely nobody needs 1220 m of water resistance. There's only a handful of people on the planet who will ever go to a fraction of that depth - intentionally, at least - so a legitimate 100 m rating is sufficient for 99.9999999999% of situations in real life.

I've personally used a old 50-m plexi Rolex plenty for swimming/snorkeling and have had zero issues or concerns. Unfortunately, guidebooks from cheap '80s digital watches have convinced some folks that you need a 300-m-rated watch to even approach a running water faucet, let alone actually getting anything wet. :|

That being said, Sea-Dweller by a fair margin, even over that handsome Breguet.
 
#8 ·
Sea dweller is superb and versatile especially if you intend to take it diving. That said if you're particularly keen on the Breguet you could always pick up a cheap diver when you start scuba. I'm sure the Type XX can survive daily use without being babied and it is a fantastic looking watch and much rarer. I love the polished case and the coin edged side especially.

I personally am not super keen on modern subs either which is why I recently acquired a late 60s vintage sub with a faded bezel so it looks different to the standard steel/black sub (for a price within your budget). That said I haven't had its WR tested yet, I am not certain that it still up to the rigours of diving... https://www.watchuseek.com/f2/first-vintage-purchase-1968-rolex-submariner-5513-pics-1043679.html

Regardless, I brought it up because you were also considering the Breguet which does not have particularly strong WR and because of the potential difficulty of finding a Sea Dweller.

I have to say I'm not keen on the chronomat looks-wise.

Just based on my preferences my first choice would be a vintage sub (which I obviously went for having entertained thoughts of a Type XX for a while myself). However sticking strictly to the ones here, I would choose the Breguet plus a cheap diver later. I would choose Sea Dweller IF diving is particularly important.
 
#15 ·
Temp,

I read your thread yesterday and those photos almost put me in a crisis. That 5513 with a faded carbon grey bezel, on a leather nato - breathtaking. A fine collector's watch.

The Breguet + an affordable diver is definitely an option. Thanks for the suggestion and eat up the '68 Sub.
 
#9 ·
Wrong Bregruet in this race. Otherwise I'll pick Bregruet over Rolex almost of the time.
In this race Breitling will not even be in my consideration facing against Bregruet and Rolex. My Breitling picks are Navitimer, B1, Steelfish, SOH, previous Emergency.

Rolex SD wins.
 
#11 ·
Woah dude as a fellow Singaporean, i presume u are since ur location is set to Singapore, congrats on having such generous parents...when i was about to enter Uni, no 10k watch for me man, just a hefty student loan ahaha.

Since you are in Singapore, you can't go wrong with the Rolex Seadweller..tough diver that can take a beating and carry on ticking, will certainly see you through your university days for sure. Plus Rolex watches are uber popular here and will retain it's value well over the years. Service from RSC here is also top notch.

The Breguet Type XX would be my second choice, only if you buy used as these do not hold value well here and will be a ..... to sell should you choose to flip it later on. But it is less common on the streets here while i see Rolex everywhere....
 
#12 ·
Although it's on my list and I don't have one I'd say the SD would be a great choice. Having said that I own a Breitling and think it's a great choice. They are tough, can take a beating and hold decent value. They're also comfortably in the price range. Both can be serviced fairly easily so you'll always be able to keep the watch in great shape.
 
#19 ·
I love the Breguet, but here, I would choose the Breitling, since you have an emotional connection to it already. The Seadweller is nice, but you get a lot more with the Breitling, other than having the dial say "Rolex". 300m is way more than most any person will ever need, it's a chronograph instead of a three-hand movement, and it's new rather than used.
 
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#22 ·
I would almost never pass a Breguet for a Rolex but as someone else mentioned, this is probably the only Breguet that on my fancy list.
As such, Sea-Dweller's the way to go. Value retention, recognition and lasting quality (easily breezes you through your Uni days!).
 
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#24 ·
SD
I had exact same and was in love with it.
Here it is,


It's classic and it will only go up in value. It also looks classy and goes on anything. Shirts, suit Polo...
It is also made to go through anything.
It can take tremendous "beating."(you shouldn't do that)
I switched to GMT Master ll model because I always wanted it but if not I would never get rid of my SD

Good luck

Tx

Roberto
 
#25 ·
SD
I had exact same and was in love with it.
Here it is,

It's classic and it will only go up in value. It also looks classy and goes on anything. Shirts, suit Polo...
It is also made to go through anything.
It can take tremendous "beating."(you shouldn't do that)
I switched to GMT Master ll model because I always wanted it but if not I would never get rid of my SD

Good luck

Tx

Roberto
Hi Roberto,

Thanks for the suggestion. I actually considered the GMT-Master II before deciding against it as I felt that if I was gonna get a Rolex, I'd prefer it to be one of their thoroughbred divers. The GMT-Master II or Explorer II were quite close to being a 4th on the shortlist. Anyway, nice pics!
 
#26 · (Edited)
Having read the comments, I'm leaning towards the SD a bit.

Question to Submariner and SD owners or guys who have compared the 2 in the steel before - I know they're both 40mm wide, but any major differences in thickness? How's the wearability of the SD compared to the Sub?

I will make a trip to one of the local ADs and have a go myself but it'll be nice to hear if the slightly thicker SD put any of you off.
 
#27 · (Edited)
I'd go with the Sea Dweller. It will handle the knocks that you inevitably give it at university, and it will still look good in worn condition as a (at least theoretically) tool watch. Breitlings don't seem to stylistically age well to me, and the Breguet just doesn't seem like a very practical college wear unless you are far more mature and practical about your activities than most at that age…
 
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