Before pulling the trigger...
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2016

    Before pulling the trigger...

    Hi, I've been researching the web for months now in order to buy a good watch.
    After processing inhuman amounts of data, I've reached several conclusions:

    Now, First thing I should mention is that I want a watch that will last a lifetime.
    I want it to be uber durable. I generally tend to treat my things well to the extreme measure, although I cannot guarantee that in my entire life I will not let it get even one tiny mark, can I?
    Therefore it needs to be tough. I like metal bracelets, not leather or rubber. Sapphire crystal obviously. And overall solid construction.
    As for the movement - I don't mind ETA, Sellita and their likes. I actually prefer to have one with a popular movement so it will not cost a fortune to service it when needed.
    I do love strong lume and open back.
    I want the watch to be a non chronograph.
    I do want it to be central second (not small seconds).
    I do have a pull towards dive watches, although not just dive watches. watches that look tough in general, although not too much of a tool.
    With all my appreciation for the price-gain ratio of Seiko, I just don't like how their watches look. When I said "too much of a tool" I did refer to the Seiko Monster. I might still get one, though, for those times I'm too afraid to take my higher end watch.

    In general, I want that one watch that will accompany me for the entire life. People have told me before that such thing doesn't exist, that I will end up wanting to collect more, but I know myself all too well. I have a will of iron. If I decide it will be a lifetime and my only watch, that will be exactly what I will do.

    One thing to mention is I'm a big guy, with rather huge hands. Let's just say I've yet to see someone with bigger hand palms than mine.

    So, some specific models that I've liked, to give the idea about my personal taste regarding watches:

    Oris Aquis Date - Looks like very solid construction and as I understood one of the best bracelets in the market. Strong lume. Ceramic bezel is a huge plus on this one, however my only gripes about it are the loud bezel action and I doubt their perfectionism to some extent - heared some people complain about bezel that isn't exactly at 12 o'clock, has play to it, and that the accuracy is rather mediocre for a watch of this price tag. And while this is a very common movement that I'm certain I could just take to a watchmaker to have it regulated, I will certainly not be happy to have the watch opened right after I buy it.

    Longines Hydroconquest - In a direct contest with Oris. It has ETA vs Oris' Sellita, which is a little bit more assuring. It's far more recognizeable and overall a very respected brand. However it has some serious flaws - It lacks Oris' ceramic bezel, its lume is rather poor and I didn't figure out yet why parts of the bezel aren't meant to be gripped.

    Now, the following watches are irrelevant to me unless there will be a big change in my budget or I will buy them pre owned:

    Omega seamaster 2254 - Can't buy the new because it has the co-axial movement which will cost a lot to service. Only weak point here is the non ceramic bezel. Other than that, an utterly perfect piece.

    IWC Ingenieur - Now this is what I call fine engineering. Instead of thinking of new things to add, they just improved what already exists. Beautiful hour marks, hands, and a rather clean dial. Probably a super quality bracelet and overall fit and finish. Looks like a tank in terms of toughness. Very reputable manufacturer. Movement is easy to service.

    And one last important watch... If I had the money for its high service cost: Zenith El Primero class 4.
    Had I been told to pick one of the watches I've mentioned (or any watch I've ever seen, for that matter) and ignore any kind of costs, this is it.
    I literally have zero issues regarding this watch's construction, looks or anything else that isn't about the price of buying and maintaining it.
    It is a chronograph in house movement so it's out of my reach for its high service costs, and also quite hard to get these days.
    I like its looks so much because it looks even more versatile to me than the Omega Seamaster. I will be able to wear it literally with anything I please.

    So... if someone has opinions or has some model I haven't noticed and wants to share, I will be much oblidged.
    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by Polipoli; July 20th, 2016 at 21:21.
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  2. #2
    Member sticky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    South Yorkshire

    Re: Before pulling the trigger...

    If you're a large chap consider the Oris Small Second as well. I'm not unduly impressed by the SW220 in my Titan but the SW200 in my ProDiver Date can give some of my quartz watches a run for their money.

  3. #3
    Member m00k's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014

    Re: Before pulling the trigger...

    Having owned both the Hyrdoconquest and the Aquis, my vote goes for the Oris. Whether you are looking at the ETA based Longines, or the Selitta based Oris, your accuracy range is going to be about the same....basically it's a dice roll. The least accurate watch in my collection (+14 seconds/day) and the most accurate watch in my collection (-1 seconds/day) both use the same Selitta movement.

    Build quality on the Aquis is second to none in that price range, particularly the bracelet as you mentioned, although it is fairly chunky. That being said, I find it more comfortable and just as well built as the bracelet on either of my Omegas. While the Hydroconquest is a beautiful watch, holding the Longines in one hand and the Oris in another, the Oris was the clear winner for me. I should also mention that the Aquis is the only watch I have ever flipped, instantly regretted it, and purchased another one within 6 months.

    Related picture below of Aquis # 2

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  5. #4
    Member Maiden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014

    Re: Before pulling the trigger...

    Don't know the size of your wrists but a 43mm Tag Heuer Aquaracer might fit the bill. I have had a couple previous generations and the quality was excellent and the calibre 5 movement (which is either a Sellitta or ETA variant) were stunningly accurate.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016

    Re: Before pulling the trigger...

    I find Tag Heuer to be far too sporty for me. Hardcore sport really. I'm a sucker for classic designs :)

    Also apparently I will have easy time getting the exact Oris from picture num 1 than other colors. It's just for some reason the local retailer is selling that specific model for a great price in my area, and buying one from abroad may be seriously problematic.
    Oris' bezel action will probably irritate me though. I've had it on my hand in person.

    One mention about "rolling dice" regarding the accuracy - my luck generally sucks, one thing I know is if I leave too much space for luck, I lose.
    Last edited by Polipoli; July 20th, 2016 at 21:28.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2015

    Re: Before pulling the trigger...

    Have you looked at Damasko or Sinn? No nonsense incredibly tough tool watches, they tend to be forum darlings.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2016

    Re: Before pulling the trigger...

    It's funny because I started to look into those two just shortly before you mentioned them because I recalled that there should be some really good watches that are made in Germany as well. Didn't like too much the Damasko design but Sinn looks rather promising. If it has models without those bells and whistles (Argon gas...?) that I can take to watchmakers and have it serviced and have a ceramic bezel then I'm probably sold :P

    *Edit - On a second thought Sinn's designs aren't too attractive either... I know I will get a reliable watch from them but the looks just don't feel right to me.
    Last edited by Polipoli; July 20th, 2016 at 22:39.

  9. #8
    Member Watchyman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010

    Re: Before pulling the trigger...

    I personally went through a myriad of "dress divers" b4 deciding on the Oris Aquis.
    It's a ton of watch for the $$$.
    If you want an awesome deal on one, send me a PM for an AD recommendation.

    Sent from my BLU LIFE ONE X using Tapatalk

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Northamptonshire, UK

    Re: Before pulling the trigger...

    I have both the Longines Hydroconquest and Oris Aquis Date, the Hydroconquest is no where near the quality of the Aquis. A couple of others you might like to consider are the Tudor Black Bay and Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600, both are excellent watches IMO and both available in a variety of colour options, however neither have a display back. The CW Trident Pro 600 in particular really punches above its weight, way better quality than the Hydroconquest, and has a 5 year warranty.

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  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2016

    Re: Before pulling the trigger...

    take the blue oris, it has its own style and appeal while the longines is more like another rolex wannabe

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