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Cartier Diver vs Tudor BB 58

11K views 65 replies 45 participants last post by  vkalia 
#1 ·
I'm looking for a black dialed, thin, dressy diver that doesn't shatter the budget in the 5k+ range or less.

The Cartier is pricier and I'm not sure about the blue jewel on the crown. Also I've read some complaints about rotor noise.

The Tudor 58 has no date and I usually don't go the gold/gilt route.

What do you think - Cartier Calibre Diver or Tudor Black Bay 58?





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#12 ·
Responses in this thread just show how "conditioned" the watch enthusiasts are. Given a choice between unique and interesting, on one hand, and generic and over-hyped on the other - guess what the majority picked.

Oh, and GMAFB with the "cabochon on a diver watch" arguments - as someone else already noted, show me someone who would actually go diving with either of these watches, and tell me how many times a year.
 
#13 ·
As someone who recently bought a dive watch, I strongly considered the Cartier diver. I really like it in photos. I've seen them in the metal perhaps a dozen times (wife likes dropping into Cartier stores), and I'm always left a bit underwhelmed by it. But, its got proper ISO dive certification (rare among "dive" watches) and wears very comfortably.

Ultimately, I was looking for something more under the radar and opted not to buy the Cartier. But you should!
 
#19 ·
If I had to choose between the two, then the Tudor, but honestly, there are a lot of other choices as good as, or better than, those two, at your price point of $5K. I would keep looking (and if I were buying a diver in that price range, then a used Sub would be my first choice, by a long shot).
 
#20 ·
The Cartier is a far more attractive watch and is just as sufficiently capable for sport diving as the Tudor. The Cartier does not look similar to the majority of dive watches. The Cartier will never be mistaken for a bargain basement diver. The Tudor has the lipstick on a pig treatment (selective gilding) that no dive watch needs or makes it look better. It would be one thing if Tudor consistently used a small gilded item as a brand badge or characteristic (similar to the Cartier crown stone) but they have taken a dive watch with great physical characteristics and made it garish.
 
#31 ·
The Heritage Black Bay divers have had gilded hands and indices (and minutes track) since they were introduced 5-6 years ago, excluding the blue model (since silver tones play very nicely with blue). The late-50s era Tudor Subs that the BB58 pays homage to also had gilded hands and indices. The only extra gilding is the bezel marking.
 
#21 ·
Cartier has some amazing and historically important dress watches (e.g. tank and santos) but I'm not sure how I feel about a Cartier dive watch. That being said, with few exceptions i'm not really a fan of the black bay line or Tudors in general. If someone offered me either one for free I'd take the Cartier as I think it's nicer looking. If you go with the Cartier make sure you get pre-owned or for a heavy discount, I have a feeling it will lose a ton of value.
 
#23 ·
Lots of good insight, thank you.

Personally I enjoy the fact that the Cartier diver looks unique compared to other divers. It can also be dressed up with relative ease. If it had no cabochon (thanks for the correct term), and I could certify no rotor noise, it would be very tempting.

The Tudor fascinates due to its timeless good looks. However, although the Rolex Sub is clearly an icon, I wonder if the Tudor just looks like another homage (I’m sure this has been much debated elsewhere). I run into quite a few genuine and homage Rolexes.

Some have made the sensible suggestion of just purchasing a used Sub, but I’ve never been one that is comfortable with the brand. Somehow, the value and subtle glints of less staid design have drawn me to Tudor. Maybe the 58 has kept the good looks without being overly derivative at a excellent value?

Very tough call. Thanks to all who voiced an opinion.


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#25 ·
The Tudor is a forum darling, but the Cartier is a much nicer watch, IMO - a more interesting/unique design than yet another re-hash of the same old, and subjectively, it looks a lot nicer as well.

Also, to me anyways, the Tudor is not a dress diver - it is very much a toolish diver. The Cartier, OTOH, would look perfectly at ease under a suit.

Also, the cabuchon is not that obvious in the real world.
 
#28 ·
Between those two I would go for the Black Bay, although the Cartiera is also a unique design that nonetheless is a nod to their dress-watch heritage. The Cartier also has an interesting movement, but to me the Black Bay is an iconic dive watch design.
 
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