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Dress Watch, Comment on 4 Choices?

2K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  stuffler,mike 
#1 ·
Hi,
I am still fairly new to WUS and the disease known as watch acquisition syndrome. I am a sports watch guy, recreational diver and typically wear dive watches as my every day watch (Ball EMII Diver COSC) , but I am interested in getting a "dress watch" for formal "suit" days at work and special occasions socially. I am also a large man (6'-3") and I am very hard on watches (so its good that I wear bullet-proof watches).
I have narrowed my search down aesthetically, to 4 watches and would like some more experienced WUS form members to comment on their strengths and weaknesses in terms of quality and service in use in USA. I realize that the watches cover a fairly broad cost range $1,000 - $3,000, but that's not my main concern. I will have the piece for along time. I am really more interested in their relative quality and the ability to have maintained here in the States over the long-haul. Additionally, after seeing the type of watches that I am attacted to, if there are others available that I should consider along the same aesthetic, please suggest them! I have posted relative cost, movements and some questions below:

1. Stowa Antea 390 (COSC Upgrade)
· ~$ 1000 (USA)
· ETA-2824-2 COSC
· 39 mm x 9.2 mm
· Anti-reflective coating on inside or on both sides of crystal?

2. Muehle Glashutte 29er
· ~$1,250 (USA)
· ETA 2824-2 (no idea of quality level or rework?)
· 42.4 mm x 11.3 mm
· Anti-reflective coating on inside or on both sides of crystal?

3. NOMOS Tangomat Zeta Date
· ~$2,850 (USA)
· NOMOS Zeta (no idea of quality level quality of movement relative to ETA?)
· 38.3 mm x 8.2 mm
· Anti-reflective coating on inside or on both sides of crystal?

4. Montblanc Timewalker GMT
· ~$2,400 (USA)
· Montblanc 4810/405 (no idea of quality level quality of movement- reworked ETA 2893-2???)
· 42 mm x 11 mm
· Anti-reflective coating on inside or on both sides of crystal?

Thanks,

Bob
 
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#3 ·
I'd go with the NOMOS or the Stowa. Mike S positively reviews both in this generously detailed post.

White face. For sure.
 
#4 ·
I have a Muhle, the Big Sports M12, white face. It's a very well finished watch. Good quality. I really like the 29er you are looking at.
My understanding about Muhle movements is that they are worked on, and modified, at their facility in Germany. They have to be to carry the Glashutte label.
 
#7 ·
Thats a tough one. You said the price difference in that range wasn't an issue, and i will say that between the four, the NOMOS is definitely my favourite. That being said, i've been a big fan of Stowa for a while, and i'd still, myself, be leaning towards it.
 
#9 ·
Thanks to all of you who responded and Happy New Year!

I have centainly reduced my choices between the NOMOS Tangomat Zeta Date and the STOWA Antea 390. I do appreciate the aspects of the NOMOS that drive its 2.5x price over the STOWA.

I do however have a question for you.

Most automatic watches are recommended to be serviced (e-lubricated, adjusted and or re-regulated every 3-5 years which will occur post-warranty). Where does one get a NOMOS or STOWA serviced? The STOWA being based on an ETA 2824-2 could be serviced here in the USA by a variety of reputable watch repair facilities. Parts are available if necessary. Is the same true of the NOMOS Zeta movement or would that need to be sent to Glashutte for servicing? This my primary concern in investing in a small, relatively new company and their movement.

Regards,

Bob
 
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