ETA vs Sellita vs Valjoux vs Tudor in house
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Thread: ETA vs Sellita vs Valjoux vs Tudor in house

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  1. #1
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    ETA vs Sellita vs Valjoux vs Tudor in house

    I've been going down the rabbit hole of watches and watching and reading tons about them, it's turning into an obsession. While I mainly care about the aesthetic value of watches, the engineering side of it is incredibly interesting too. I've heard that Sellita are poor mans ETA who straight up took their expired copyright design and reproduced it. If so I guess Sellita is in last place. Now what about the other 3? Is there ever a case where an ETA or Valjoux movement outperforms an official COSC in-house?

    And out of curiousity, where does Seiko, Orient and Seagull movements fit in, in terms of build quality and chronometer value?

    Thanks for reading u guys rock, hope you have a nice 2019 :)

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    Moderator at Large stuffler,mike's Avatar
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    Re: ETA vs Sellita vs Valjoux vs Tudor in house

    ETA bought Valjoux a couple of years ago. There is no ETA vs. Valjoux.
    In former times Sellita was assembling ETA movements, so they know what they are doing and imho it is dead wrong to disqualify them as being poor man‘s movements.
    COSC certified movements are all running through the same test procedures so I wouldn‘t know how one can outperform the other.
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    Re: ETA vs Sellita vs Valjoux vs Tudor in house

    Unless you're talking about Grand Seiko movements, otherwise, I've generally found Seiko mechanical movements to be rather unreliable performers, with extremely lax accuracy standards, high positional variance, and poor isochronism. In particular, I would prefer an ETA or Sellita movement in any grade, or even a Miyota 9015 over a Seiko 6R15, 4R35, 4R15, 7S26.
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    Re: ETA vs Sellita vs Valjoux vs Tudor in house

    For example, even the Seiko 6L35 movement, which appears in the $2500 SJE073J1 limited edition is only rated at +15/-10 spd, the same is true of the 8L35 in the $3000 SBDX023 Marine Master 300. This is what one might expect from a standard grade ETA 2824-2, which is rated at +/-12 spd, except that you can find this in watches under $500. If you looked at sub $1000 Seikos, you'll see movements like the 6R15 or 4R35, which are rated at +25/-15 spd.


    Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119J; Vacheron Constantin Overseas; Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Duo; Rolex Submariner 114060; Omega Seamaster 300; Montblanc Heritage Dual Time; Tudor Black Bay.

    Armida A12; Borealis Estoril; Bulova Accutron II Alpha, Moonwatch; Casio GMW-B5000D, GW-5000, GST-W310; Certina DS-2; Coach Fulton; Hamilton Khaki Field; Helson Skindiver; Orient 60th Anniversary; Seagull Tourbillon, 1963 Air Force; Seiko SNA089P, SUN025P1; Steinhart OVM; Swatch Body and Soul, Heracles, Sistem51, Uncle Charly; Victorinox Alliance, Infantry Vintage.

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    Re: ETA vs Sellita vs Valjoux vs Tudor in house

    I'd also add that as I get older in life, I'm starting to add more importance to the "easiness" of anything I do. I'm starting to prefer ETA/Sellita movements because they should be relatively easy to service and repair if/when the need arises; e.g the idea of sending a Spring Drive GS back to Japan for who knows how long is something that I weigh against how beautiful and impressive the movement/watch is.

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    Re: ETA vs Sellita vs Valjoux vs Tudor in house

    Quote Originally Posted by stuffler,mike View Post
    ETA bought Valjoux a couple of years ago. There is no ETA vs. Valjoux.
    In former times Sellita was assembling ETA movements, so they know what they are doing and imho it is dead wrong to disqualify them as being poor man‘s movements.
    COSC certified movements are all running through the same test procedures so I wouldn‘t know how one can outperform the other.
    Swatch bought and owns all. Not ETA as ETA is Swatch as well. And I totally agree with the Sellita statement. Interesting is it not? Most think any watch produced in Swiss watchmaking companies are all COSC certified. Yet, TAG is not in the top ten of COSC certified movements. TAG outsells Breitling and Breitling does not produce anything but COSC certified movements including their superquartz. When one thinks of that fact, one really has to wonder about all the hoopla of movements. Clearly, to a huge market share, the casing, bracelet, bezel, crown and pushers have more to do with watch sells then accuracy and the benchmark of Swiss watchmaking, COSC certification.

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    Re: ETA vs Sellita vs Valjoux vs Tudor in house

    Just about all movement providers, with the exception of a few low-end manufacturers in China and high-end ones in Switzerland, produce a range of products at different price points, so you can't really compare whole companies. There are a few patterns that you can go by, one being that mechanical movements have some similarities to engines in that care in assembly and tuning have a significant impact on performance. Low end movements are cheap because they don't receive that care.

    It is true that movements in 'top' and 'chronometer' grades (and Grand Seiko, Rolex etc.) have upgraded materials that give them higher potential for accuracy, but those upgrades mostly come into play in the chase for that last few sec/day of accuracy. They still require care in assembly and regulation to realize that potential.

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