Lately my watch collection has focused on enamel dial watches. To me, the incomparable depth and vibrancy of color makes this a compelling choice .. So Ive acquired a 2001 IWC Portofino, a 2015 Ball Trainmaster Power Reserve and a Seiko SPB069 ...all very attractive dials. My newest is from a micro brand based out of Glasgow, Scotland ..AnOrdain. I’m sure most here are familiar with the grand feu
( great fire) or Vitreous process. Firstly, there are only a handful of makers in the world practicing the craft. AnOrdain sources their powdered enamel from several places ; mostly from the Stoke-on-Trenton area, famous for its pottery glazes and dyes. (enamel is basically colored glass) . The powdered enamel is sieved in a powder form onto a wafer thin copper disc. Copper makes for a good base when creating an opaque dial as opposed for example a transparent enamel dial which might use a silver disc . Then it goes into the kiln which is heated to about 950 degrees C.... the powdered enamel melts and flows into a smooth surface which is then cooled and sanded by hand. AnOrdain utilizes an extra step “contre emaillage” which is applying a base enamel coat on the other side of the copper disc to help ensure the stability
( many a disc are destroyed by this intense heat) of the fledgling dial. This adding enamel powder , heating and sanding is repeated up to 8X..Another important distinction between most enamelers and AnOrdain - they sand completely by hand in between steps. No machine sanding. This helps create a stunning finish to the dial. No cold enameling or liquid “sip”. ( I love my Seiko SPB069- but Seiko uses a liquid enamel approach.) Enamel watches are expensive because it’s a painstaking process and many dials are discarded for sundry reasons: cracking and warping , impurities contaminating the dial, etc. AnOrdain is inspired by their Scottish Highland (Loch Ordain) rooya. ... the watches dial typography was influenced by old British Ordnance Survey maps of the area. The nickel finished compass shaped open-work hands were designed in house for AO and made by Estima .. The 316L stainless steel in from Germany and although not Sinn hard, at 800 Vickers is good enough for my desk diving. Double - domed sapphire , each side coated w 12 layers of anti-reflect ...6 on the underside and six on the surface. The exhibition sapphire caseback gets the same treatment. Sellita 200-1, elabore grade finish with Swiss paper snail rotor, Incabloc and a higher cannon pinion to accommodate the enamel dial. Perfect dress size 38mm . 45 L2L,
A little over 12mm high.
5 year warranty...I bought mine on a Staib mesh bracelet but they threw in a German grey suede. I think the Iron Creme dial pops better. The Milanese strap takes too much away from the stunning creamy dial IMO.
This is a watch where the dial is the attraction. No, not the movement. I agree .. The reason I’m posting this is because I think it’s fantastic that a half dozen young artisans/watchmakers are creating something really exciting and helping to continue the fine art of watchmaking.