Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!
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  1. #1
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    Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!

    I'm looking for opinions on what I should get as an heirloom watch. Which of my choices below would you recommend and why? For me, I'm not very interested in which brand has more 'wow' factor or brand prestige and price/resale is not a concern - I'm more interested in things like which watch will last over my lifetime, my children's lifetime, and a movement that will continue to be serviceable in the future. A timeless but individual look is also important. I've listed individual concerns next to each watch below

    For the most part I've gone for GMTs and I prefer divers. I've gone for some manufacture and some ETA. I'd like to hear your opinion on one house servicing its own manufacture movement vs. the wide availability of ETA movements as I'm yet undecided either way in terms of exclusivity, performance, and serviceability. Of course, I prefer a longer power reserve, but then ETAs would presumably have a lot more parts availability in future.

    If you have personal experience with any of these watches, please let me know how its all going. So, to start!

    1. Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE001

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    I don't have any issue with paying $6000 or so for a 'Seiko', but I am concerned about spring drives and how the movement will evolve in the future. I've only thought about this in detail over the last little while, but really what will happen with the movement over the next 50 years is hard to say, as was the Bulova Accutron etc. I guess what I'm saying is, while it is the most accurate one, it really hasn't withstood the test of time. If the movement had evolved over many decades as, say, the ETA movements or the rollie movements, I'd feel more comfortable. But, for its value for money, exceptional finish and true in house manufacture, it remains a strong contender. If it weren't for my concerns re the movement, I'd just get this without question.


    2. Chopard LUC Pro One GMT
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    I know this watch is discontinued but the movement is used by a few of their other watches. I was pretty surprised to learn the GMT hand is not independent at all - if the bezel is left in its neutral position (with 24 at the top of the dial) the GMT hand will display the 24 hour time of the hour and minute hands. I guess this is a bit odd for the cost of this watch, but not a deal breaker. On this watch though I have a couple of quizzos:
    - Please tell me how many clicks the bezel has - given it will be the only thing that can be used for the GMT hand, the bezel clicks (and accuracy of lining up the GMT bezel) becomes crucial
    - I have read a few good things about the movement in this watch, but what is your opinion? I've also read the seconds hand doesn't hack...?
    - I've also read some reports of a loose bezel - if you have this watch, can you please advise?

    3. Breitling Colt + GMT
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    This has the ETA 2893 but is not a manufacture. The advantage is that the widespread availability of the movement will likely keep it going for some time. I'm not sure why but this watch was never really popular, but I think its great - bit of that synthetic exclusivity just cos the watch isn't very popular. I know the movement is not a true GMT and while this is a bit of a pity I don't really think its a big issue. One other annoying disadvantage with this watch is that its power reserve is just short of 2 days (i.e. a weekend), and yes truth be told I don't really wear a watch on the weekends.

    4. Your Recommendation?
    But not rolex! from the above 3 I think you can see what I'm looking for - if you have anything else in mind, please recommend.

    Thanks guys, I've been thinking about this for a long time and your input would be much appreciated
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  2. #2
    Member woodsworth's Avatar
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    Re: Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!

    The watch I have in sights for 2013 is the IWC Ingenieur 40mm-

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    Elegant, yet extremely sporty. I think this fits the bill for your heirloom piece. If you don't like that, my vote goes to the GS (even though I strongly prefer their dressier pieces).

  3. #3
    Member kylemacca01's Avatar
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    Re: Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!

    I prefer the grand seiko out of those watches but maybe consider an iwc or zenith.

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  5. #4
    Member omega1234's Avatar
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    Re: Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!

    Check out the Omega Aqua Terra GMT.
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  6. #5
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    Re: Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!

    Take a look at a Seiko Ananta GMT Spring Drive. I'd love an Ananta

  7. #6
    Member portauto's Avatar
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    Re: Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!

    I wouldn't really consider any of those watches as heirloom pieces.. none of the models posted have timeless looks. When I think of an heirloom that will last generations some names that come to mind are more classic dress watches or even some divers from Rolex, Patek, Vacheron, AP, Blancpain, JLC, Breguet, Cartier, GP, Omega. If you do want to go with Grand Seiko I would suggest selecting one of their dress watches.

    Kindest Regards,
    Portauto
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    Older: Tissot Visodate Heritage 1957; Sea-Gull 819.315; Citizen Promaster Navitach JQ8020-52L; Casio DBC-61 Databank Digital (first watch)
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  8. #7
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    Re: Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!

    Thanks guys, definitely something to think about

    My requirements are for a GMT complication, and a bezel with at least 60 clicks. I know a rolex gmt master ii would fit the bill but I would prefer a higher power reserve and a greater water resistance.

    To be honest I would also consider a couple of Omegas - their co axial movement with the longer service intervals is a big plus. In particular, I like the Speedmaster Moonwatch which has classical looks, and the PO Chrono. Both have display backs, both have a subdial which would allow me to show a second timezone, but both are a bit big (44mm or so).

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    For now though, could you please vote for which of the ones I've specified you recommend? And, for any additional recommendations, they'd have to be in the same vein, so GMT complication, an a bezel with at least 60 clicks.

    I'd also be interested in hearing your thoughts on the longevity and future direction of the spring drive...

  9. #8
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    Re: Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!

    Quote Originally Posted by portauto View Post
    I wouldn't really consider any of those watches as heirloom pieces.. none of the models posted have timeless looks. When I think of an heirloom that will last generations some names that come to mind are more classic dress watches or even some divers from Rolex, Patek, Vacheron, AP, Blancpain, JLC, Breguet, Cartier, GP, Omega. If you do want to go with Grand Seiko I would suggest selecting one of their dress watches.

    Kindest Regards,
    Portauto
    I have to agree, the important thing would be to get a "timeless" or atemporal piece, i.e. a watch whose design has been around for quite some time, a couple generations at least, and you know will be around in a couple more...the Omega Speedmaster or perhaps the Heuer Monaco are probably the most affordable of those that fit this category. You also have some Rolexes, the JLC reverso, virtually any Patek etc

    Edit: if you like the Co-axial movement and want a GMT why not consider the Aqua Terra GMT as someone else suggested? It's a watch that looks a lot better in person than in the photos, very versatile watch, can dress up or dress down, looks good on a strap or bracelet, and while expensive, not close to Rolex territory...
    Last edited by avrvmadrid; December 30th, 2012 at 09:18.

  10. #9
    Member portauto's Avatar
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    Re: Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!

    Quote Originally Posted by danilo View Post
    My requirements are for a GMT complication, and a bezel with at least 60 clicks. I know a rolex gmt master ii would fit the bill but I would prefer a higher power reserve and a greater water resistance.


    Kindest Regards,
    Portauto
    JoshTheCanadian likes this.
    Rotation: IWC Portuguese 5001-09 7-Day; Glashütte Original PanoReserve; Rolex Oyster 6480 (1955); TAG Heuer 2000 Professional
    Sold: Seiko MarineMaster SBDX001; Omega Seamaster Professional; Steinhart Nav.B-Uhr II B-Type; Wilson Pilot with Sea-Gull ST36
    Older: Tissot Visodate Heritage 1957; Sea-Gull 819.315; Citizen Promaster Navitach JQ8020-52L; Casio DBC-61 Databank Digital (first watch)
    Daily Wear: Apple Watch Series 4 Hermes 40mm
    My Wife's: Cartier Tank Solo W5200005; Apple Watch Series 4 GPS 40mm

  11. #10
    Member portauto's Avatar
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    Re: Heirloom Watch - Help me choose!

    If a diver wasn't a requirement I would strongly suggest a JLC Reverso GMT. Now that's an heirloom.

    This one even has an 8-day power reserve.

    Kindest Regards,
    Portauto

    ImitationOfLife likes this.
    Rotation: IWC Portuguese 5001-09 7-Day; Glashütte Original PanoReserve; Rolex Oyster 6480 (1955); TAG Heuer 2000 Professional
    Sold: Seiko MarineMaster SBDX001; Omega Seamaster Professional; Steinhart Nav.B-Uhr II B-Type; Wilson Pilot with Sea-Gull ST36
    Older: Tissot Visodate Heritage 1957; Sea-Gull 819.315; Citizen Promaster Navitach JQ8020-52L; Casio DBC-61 Databank Digital (first watch)
    Daily Wear: Apple Watch Series 4 Hermes 40mm
    My Wife's: Cartier Tank Solo W5200005; Apple Watch Series 4 GPS 40mm

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