help deciding between watches - also a jewel rating question

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  1. #1
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    help deciding between watches - also a jewel rating question

    So im starting to really get into watches.....and I want to take in all that I can learn so I have a question...I am in search of a new timepiece, and Ive narrowed it down to

    Bell and Ross BR03-92
    Oris williams F1 - 45mm with metal bracelet
    Ernst and Benz

    I notice the jewel rating of 25/21/27 etc....the higher number is better right, but what exactly does it mean?

    OK - so I went into the EB shop where they actually make the EB brand, its in Birmingham MI. The plus with the ernst benz is that if i want a new face say in a year - they told me i can come in and they will change the color, no charge....how cool when you get bored huh!? I think the watch is made elsewhere but they do some work locally and there were 12 watch makers in house, very cool operation! I guess this family (cant remember name) bought the company some time ago when one of the people there helped with a design that really took off.

    Oris - love the crown/casing/etc....fits nice, quality seems tight but its similar to a hamilton I have.....

    Bell Ross - odd fit but love the unique element, not sure how the quality compares i think this is where i saw the 21 jewel rating but it seems the BR is well respected...

    What to do what to do! I am leaning towards the bell and ross honestly!

    helpppp folks :)

    thanks!
    elite

  2. #2
    stuffler,mike
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    Re: help deciding between watches - also a jewel rating question

    Quote Originally Posted by elite View Post
    I notice the jewel rating of 25/21/27 etc....the higher number is better right, but what exactly does it mean?

    Yes and no. You may read this thread:

    https://forums.watchuseek.com/showthr...ht=jewel+count

  3. #3
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    Re: help deciding between watches - also a jewel rating question

    Quote Originally Posted by elite View Post
    So im starting to really get into watches.....and I want to take in all that I can learn so I have a question...I am in search of a new timepiece, and Ive narrowed it down to

    Bell and Ross BR03-92
    Oris williams F1 - 45mm with metal bracelet
    Ernst and Benz

    I notice the jewel rating of 25/21/27 etc....the higher number is better right, but what exactly does it mean?
    Not totally. An ETA 2824 - a standard, workhorse sort of movement - has 25 jewels. A 2892, only 21 jewels, but is regarded as being at least as good, or better than, a 2824. Why? Because the 2824 started life as a 17-jewel handwound movement and has had bits plugged onto it to make it automatic, each of which has a few jewels of its own. A 2892 is automatic from the ground up, not a collection of different bits; so its design is different, and it likely has less friction parts because it doesn't have interfaces between the base movement and the automatic mechanism. Similar a 7750 chronograph movement has 25 jewels, but a 2892 with a separate chronograph module, itself with its own jewels, has a whopping 38 jewels in total (21 for the base movement, 17 for the chronograph bit). It is not ((38/25)*100 - 100)% better than a 7750

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  5. #4
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    Re: help deciding between watches - also a jewel rating question

    good post - really gave me some insight! now it comes down to - what watch do I want to wear! ugggg, decisions!

    thanks guys!



    Quote Originally Posted by stuffler,mike View Post
    Yes and no. You may read this thread:

    https://forums.watchuseek.com/showthr...ht=jewel+count

  6. #5
    Member kccastle's Avatar
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    Re: help deciding between watches - also a jewel rating question

    I believe that Oris is very under appreciated in the watch world. The dials on the Big Crown models (my favorites) are beautiful with the subtle scrollwork. Looking at EBay the other night my wife noticed the F1 and was very impressed with its' looks also.

    The Bell & Ross is unique and very highly rated, but is it too unique for a long term purchase? It is too much of a novelty for my tastes.

    No opinion on the Ernst and Benz.

    Go with the Oris.
    Charlie

    DeVille Prestige 4800.31.01
    Seamaster, 1961, Gold, Cal. 500
    Seamaster Pro 2231.80
    Speedmaster 3523.30
    Speedmaster Pro 3570.50

  7. #6
    Member smurfe's Avatar
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    Re: help deciding between watches - also a jewel rating question

    As the others stated, don't let a jewel count influence your purchase. More jewels does not mean better watch movement. If so, my Vostok Europe watches (32 Jewels) will be better than any watch I have or have previously owned (Doxa, Omega, Rolex, Corum, Baum et Mercier, Tag Hauer, etc). We know that isn't the fact. More complications or modifications to the movement normally mean more jewels, etc.

    Smurfe

  8. #7
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    Re: help deciding between watches - also a jewel rating question

    EB was cool cause its close but the truth is, they dont have much unique style, I found the casing/strap connection looking old and cheap-ish but then again that doesn't mean its not a nice watch. My point is, the Oris has a very clever nice way of making such a large watch fit nicely with its hinging, and the Bell Ross is just so different that it has its own flavor that appeals.....its so tough...I think im going to sit on it for a few days and think my heart out and also see what holds value better.....maybe Ill get one 2nd hand and other new but they are both hard to come by used.



    Quote Originally Posted by kccastle View Post
    I believe that Oris is very under appreciated in the watch world. The dials on the Big Crown models (my favorites) are beautiful with the subtle scrollwork. Looking at EBay the other night my wife noticed the F1 and was very impressed with its' looks also.

    The Bell & Ross is unique and very highly rated, but is it too unique for a long term purchase? It is too much of a novelty for my tastes.

    No opinion on the Ernst and Benz.

    Go with the Oris.

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