Hello to everyone, and first of all forgive my english, it's not my native language.
For a few years, I have been working on creating my own watch brand, and now it's time to choose which model I will produce first.
Since I have created several models, I want to ask for your opinion to help me choose the first model that I will order the plans in one month.
Of course I have my preference, but I like all these models, and it will be better to choose the first watch that will win the most votes, to put the maximum of chances of success on my side. And if it works, the other models will follow anyway.The logo of the brand, and its name.
The positioning I chose for Beaulieu is the real Swiss Made. No, not the one we usually see at 60% of value but 25% of parts with the rest of the watch made in China. The real one. I am probably a bit old fashion, but in my opinion a Swiss Made watch should be… Swiss Made. I know, it’s weird.
In short, cases, dials, hands, buckles, probably up the sapphire crystal will be integrally (from first step to the last) made in Switzerland.
I also want to approach the creation of the brand a "fair trade » spirit by practicing a reasonable margin, and direct sales.
And all that at what price? Not so fast... I can already tell you that it will be without comparison on the market for real "Swiss Made".
In fact, it will depend on the movement, and here too I will ask you to think and give an opinion. Not to vote for the cheapest immediately, but to weigh the pros and cons before clicking.
To my left in red shorts, a 25.6mm (11 1/2 lines) classic, say a Soprod A10 or an ETA 28XX Top. We know them, no need to present them, 38 to 42 hours of power reserve, etc …
We also know their faults under a large dial (34mm opening on all the models you see), the date is too close to the center. A small second sub-dial would be stuck under the hands, all that is not very sexy. But it's cheaper, and it's known.
To my right in blue shorts, it would be my choice, the Eterna cal. 39. 30mm (13 1/4 lines), which allows a harmonious placement of the date and small second on a 34mm dial.
65 hours of power reserve, plenty of versions available that will eventually offer a lot of different dial versions, it's also a rare movement, so all in all and for me, of a superior watchmaking interest. But it's more expensive.
So, the price? Drum roll. To be confirmed of course, within a + or - 5% range, but according to the estimates I have it will be around 1350 CHF (excl. tax) with Soprod / ETA Top.
And around 1700 CHF (excl. tax) with an Eterna.
Some people may say that's expensive for the first model of a new brand, and it’s kind of true. On the other hand, if you take for example the Eterna 3914A, small second, date and second time zone (the first movement I want to put in the first beaulieu), in a truly 100% Swiss Made watch at 1700 CHF, this price it is absolutely without competition on the market. Twice as much, you will not find a watch like that.
So, expensive or inexpensive? Opinions will diverge, I think it's a really fair price given the benefits that are - in my opinion - rather high-end.
We can compare to other young brands, Sevenfriday for example, 100% China Made, a 40$ Miyota movement, and some of their watches that are at the same price. It puts things in perspective.
To say a few words about Eterna (the other Eterna, the watch brand) about which there are a lot of negative rumors, I want to clarify that the company which sells movements is Eterna Movement SA, is in good shape with a full order book. It's not the same company. Neither the same direction, and employees. In the same way that ETA is not Longines, or that Soprod is not Perrelet, one must know the difference. Even if the common name to both entities does not help to separate things, that's for sure.
In short, if the choice of Cal. 39 prevails, I personally have no concern for the future, the maintenance of the watch and the availability of parts. A question that does not pose with the more common movements such ETA and others, so no need to deepen on the subject.
This is why I ask you, if possible, to choose between the two options only by reflecting on what really matters, your personal taste, prices, and benefits.
Well, let's go into the watches design, the illustrations of the possible choices are following : the first four images have some watches with date placed for a movement of 25.6mm. In this option, there are not many possible variations, only to put the counter at 3 o'clock when there is one. Personally I prefer without date, better than with a date misplaced, too close to the center.
The pictures then:• Type S, round with lugs, 40mm.• Type R, round without lugs, 42mm.• Type C, cushion without lugs, 42mm.• Type V, round with barrel case, 40mm.
Then below the typical versions Eterna Cal 39. I'm not going to put again the three hands « no date » versions, they will look the same regardless of the movement.
I guess it's not difficult to see why I am more interested in the Eterna Cal. 39 movement despite its higher price, there are many harmonious variations possible (for my taste), not to mention the benefits of the movement itself. What, am I partial?
The images :
And now, to the vote! I will wait eagerly for the first results. In a few days, I will go to Switzerland to order plans, everything must be decided by then: the first watch model, and its movement.
A word about the Private Label who will make the plans, prototypes, and will be in charge of the production. Without yet revealing its name, nothing is signed yet, it is an important and former company of the Swiss watch industry, with a large network of good subcontractors. I do not doubt that the quality of the work will live up to its reputation.
If you have any questions do not hesitate to ask. And sorry for the long reading, I did not know how to make it shorter.