Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |
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Thread: Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

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  1. #1
    Member tom_hanx's Avatar
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    Thumbs Up Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

    Hello awesome folk,

    Yes, I have gone quiet in the past weeks - many changes on the work front, busy times, not to bore you too much...

    I catch myself obsessing over my ultimo-primo-uber-dress watch and history tells me that talking to WUS fellow members is good, adds options, broadens horizons, etc.

    WUS has always helped me, and I wish to compare notes with you on the Dress Watch Paradigm (queue in music from The Big Bang Theory)...

    So, here's the deal - in stubborn but irrevocable steps I am moving closer to buying my dress grail, the Zenith Elite Ultra Thin.

    To date, I have been unable to find anything which can challenge it against those combined criteria:

    • 40 mm
    • thin bezel
    • classic, clean dress
    • in-house movement
    • under $3,000 BNIB + factory warranty/papers


    I want to make sure that I explore as much alternatives. If none measure up, fine - the Zenith is awesome enough. If there are worthy contenders however, I want to know about them.

    So, let's share notes - Germans, Japanese, Swiss, steel or not, BNIB or vintage NOS, whatever dress watches you have on short list in your little black books matching or beating above criteria, please share them.

    Here is my current yardstick:

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  2. #2
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    Re: Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

    The stickler to your criteria is the combination of in-house and under $3000. The Zenith might be the only one to fit the bill. Nomos makes a few pieces in manual and automatic but they're all under 40mm - usually 36 to 38-ish mm. Maybe you'd get lucky and catch a pre-owned 40 mm JLC MUT in stainless if you keep your eyes peeled. Modern is tough within your parameters so vintage might be the way to go. $3000 is a very generous budget in that market.... however you won't find 40 mm, maybe 37 or 38 at the most.

  3. #3
    Member tom_hanx's Avatar
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    Re: Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

    If only NOMOS made a 40mm Zurich version... then it would have made things considerably easier, I agree.

    I like the JLC but in my case, it would have to be the Grande Ultra Thin = 40mm, else the 38mm MUT is too small... Best price I could find around here for the 40mm JLC was little over $5k, which compared to the $2,700 Zenith is almost double if both are new. Now, I don't know how easy it is to find a Grande MUT in good condition these days, let alone close to $3k. My guess would be - not easy at all...
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  5. #4
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    Re: Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

    The Nomos Club Automat has 40 and 41.5 mm versions in black and white dials. Looks like they're available in the neighborhood of $2500. They might be the only competitor to the Zenith.

  6. #5
    Member tom_hanx's Avatar
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    Re: Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

    Quote Originally Posted by ulackfocus View Post
    The Nomos Club Automat has 40 and 41.5 mm versions in black and white dials. Looks like they're available in the neighborhood of $2500. They might be the only competitor to the Zenith.
    The NOMOS Club is sportier - the color, the numbers... slightly off the strict clean lines of the Zenith. Sorry, not trying to be difficult playing "purist" - out of the NOMOS line, I think the Zurich is closest competitor... Priced new is above Zenith, pre-owned not easy to find...
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  7. #6
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    Re: Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

    Quote Originally Posted by ulackfocus View Post
    The stickler to your criteria is the combination of in-house and under $3000. The Zenith might be the only one to fit the bill.
    I have to agree with ULF. Nothing that matches all those criteria comes to my mind; the in-house movement factor is obviously the hardest part. If we move that aside for a moment, there might be some candidates worth checking out.

    I'm thinking about Union Glashütte Noramis. Union in its current form doesn't get that much respect around here, but this is a model I really like. Usually I'm not a fan of golden hands/indexes/numerals with a stainless steel case, but this one really melts my heart. There is also a version that has a silver dial with silver numerals and hands. It has an ETA movement with cosmetic modifications, but otherwise it ticks all the other boxes (diameter is exactly 40mm). And it's cheaper than the Zenith.



    If you want to see some live pictures, check out this thread at the Nomos Forum: Privates Forum über NOMOS Uhren &bull; Thema anzeigen - Noramis - Union Glashütte.
    Last edited by jrantasa; March 2nd, 2011 at 18:01.


  8. #7
    Ball Watch, Bremont and Longines moderator samanator's Avatar
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    Re: Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

    Funny I was going to suggest a Zenith Ultra Thin Roman:



    My other suggestion if you can add 1mm is the Ball Trainmaster Power Reserve:

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    Re: Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

    Quote Originally Posted by tom_hanx View Post
    If only NOMOS made a 40mm Zurich version... then it would have made things considerably easier, I agree.

    I like the JLC but in my case, it would have to be the Grande Ultra Thin = 40mm, else the 38mm MUT is too small... Best price I could find around here for the 40mm JLC was little over $5k, which compared to the $2,700 Zenith is almost double if both are new. Now, I don't know how easy it is to find a Grande MUT in good condition these days, let alone close to $3k. My guess would be - not easy at all...
    Nomos Zurich is 40mm but slightly more than 3K. What about the Nomos Ludwig?
    Regards,

    Richard




  10. #9
    Member tom_hanx's Avatar
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    Re: Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

    The Roman (or any other for that matter) numbers are very delicate topic in dress watch context - at least in my head this is ;)

    Nomos are good but perhaps not as good... (not trying to start a flame war here, just MHO)

    The biggest issue I have with Nomos is a very practical one - they do not have a retailer/sale point in Geneva. I should drive to Lausanne just to try them on. If all goes to plan, I'll try some of them in Basel end of this month. Until then they are a possible but not tested candidate.

    Bring in the other contestants LOL
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  11. #10
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    Re: Let's compare notes on | Dress Watches | 40mm | <$3,000 |

    The Zürich is 39,7mm. o,3 < 40,00 mm. Would be absolutely no deal breaker for me. Only 0,3mm.
    Kind regards
    Mike


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