I am currently looking for suggestions for a dual/time zone - GMT/UTC type watch to ad to my collection. An Omega SMP-GMT of course is an option, but I tend to like less ubiquictous watches (but if they are really heads and tails better than competition, I can be convinced). I know about Rolex and Omega GMT quick set function and I don't travel enough for that to really matter. I simply travel a few times a year and deal with business partners in other parts of the World regularly and it would be nice to know the time.
I tend to like simple, clean designs, so I have not thought about a chronometer, but I have not ruled them out either. Since I currently have a dive watch (Ball) and a dress watch (Stowa), I was thinking of something in between in style (aviator?).
I would like your suggestions based on the following criteria.
I am aware of some Swiss and German manufacturers who make watches in this price category, and, but I really have no undertstanding of how much each manufacturer modifies & adjust/regulates their movements. Among the players who is currently producing the best quality (compared to say Omega, for example)? Additionally, might I be better off in the used market?
- Budget: < $3,500 (a little more or a lot less...
- Style: More sporty than dressy, but OK as everyday or dress (I have a diver & a dress on order)
- Case Size: 38 - 44 mm dia.
- Material: Stainless or Titanium
- Face: White, Black or Blue OK, no roman numerals, ticks or alphanumerics (I prefer clean reading faces). Lume is a plus
- Movement: Automatic, Highest grade ETA 2893-2 (or proprietary, but I sense that they are too much $) or V 7750 (if UTC chrono model) I can get (COSC? or internal std.)
- Crystal: Sapphire, preferrably with no anti-reflective coating on outside of crystal (afraid of scratching, I need to be convinced of toughness)
- Case Back: Stainless/Ti or Sapphire View window
- Water Resistance: > 30 m but > 100 + m is a plus (already have a 300 m diver)
- Strap: Bracelet preferred (quality here is important to me), but a leather strap is OK
- Distribution & Service: Available from AD is USA and servicable in USA (e.g. some Sinn technology
Companies I am aware of to consider based on price:
Baume & Mercier
(Too much $$$: Blancpain, Chopard, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rolex, Ulyses Nardin and Zenith)
(Too much $$$: A. Lange & Soehne, Glashutte Original, Union Glashutte, Wempe)