I want one and I want it badly, however something always screws it up for me. The Archimede have stupid cut-off hands, ending square instead of pointy (and they don't make a B-Muster), Aristo have full lumed hands instead of blued skeleton, Steinhart lume only the tens on the B-Muster and stupidly insist on using inferior white day-colour C1 (where the yellowish tint of C3 would fit a vintage homage watch exquisitely), plus they have inferior water resistance, Laco seems to be shutting down altogether, besides making them either too big or too small, etc. ad nauseam. Most of them come with polished bezels, and you can have a handwind but with a bloody small second!. Come on!
I'd like to voice my distress: give me a nice plain good quality B-Uhr - that shouldn't be so hard. Here's an outline:
1) Big-ass watch. But not so big that people who never heard of B-Uhr believe I've strapped a desk clock to my wrist, but BIG, too big really. 47mm please. I'll also take 44mm if you get the other stuff right, but I'd prefer too big. 42, 40, 38mm... get out of here, are you serious?
2) No polished stuff please. Originals were painted grey with no shiny bits. This is what makes them cool. I don't want a watch with a paint that will wear off, but surely it is within the wit of man to use a coating or surface finish that comes close. Diamond-coating or sandblasting come to mind. Grey, matte, non-shiny. Virtually no bezel at all, as thin as possible. Delicate lugs, 22mm wide at least. Highly domed crystal,
3) Black matte dial with C3, slathered on liberally. Lume everything that is not black. Don't worry about C3 being greenish-yellow, that's fine, originals came with radium paint and must have absolutely lit up everything. Put too much lume on it, I'll gladly give you 50€ extra for the couple of cents an unit worth of extra lume you will use. Seiko it, double-Seiko it in fact. (Aside: how come Seiko see fit to use ridiculous amounts of lume on a 150€ watch while others save on it for watches they ask thousands for? Yeah, lookin' at ya, Sinn.)
4) Handwind, highly accurate movement with centre seconds. Don't need COSC, but I'd like adjusted to a couple of positions at least. Automatic is ok as well, but if it has date, find a way to place a date window unobtrusively instead of hiding it altogether. I need a date on a watch. I'm ready to do without for sake of originality, but if the movement has date function, let me use it.
5) Water resistance at least 10 Bar. I got flamed over this on Steinhart forum, because I said only 3 Bar is inadequate. I got a history lesson on how they're worn on nice leather straps and how it's a sacriledge to even think about showering or swimming with one on. As if a good WR rating (which you can't see) would completely spoil the watch, because not true to original. Meanwhile nobody seems to bother about minuscule cases, the shiny bits, or a choice between automatic movements or handwind movements with a SMALL SECOND. That's completely a-ok, but if it were water resistant to more than 3 Bar, it's no flieger no more, completely spoiled, useless. Ridiculous.
6) Blued skeleton sword hands. As I first started thinking about a flieger, I wanted to avoid blued hands because of how they looked on the photos. Uniform light blue - I didn't realise they were just photographed as blue as they can appear. Meanwhile I got a couple of pocket watches with blued hands, and blued the hands on my molnija pocket watch myself (previously black). I'm a complete sucker for those. Words fail me to describe the beauty of these deep blue highlights shimmering through the otherwise jet-black surface as light plays on it. I've spent hours just staring at them, turning the watch this or that way to make it light up or go dark. It's just achingly beautiful - not as a hyperbole, it actually hurts. This is non-negotiable. Blue it or keep it. Also, make the hands pointy. I like the idea of precision. I want the illusion that I could read seconds off the minute hand with a loupe. Don't square or round them off, it's not like someone could sting themselves on them. Make them so sharp that you'll sting yourself if your finger comes as close as two milimetres to the tip. Also, make the tip end exactly on the inner edge of the indices when viewed from exactly 90°, and bend them slightly downwards so they just about touch the dial.
I've certainly missed something, but I have certainly made my point (apart from clearing any doubts that I'm stark raving mad certainly). It seems like I won't get the flieger I want until I have started making them myself. What do you think? Do you subscribe to this or think I'm way overboard?