I bought my first real automatic watch two years ago for my 30th birthday: a Tissot Powermatic 80 with anthracit dial (link). For me, it offers great value: completely swiss made, "in house" movement (ETA based) with an impressive 80 hour powerreserve, and date. Has a Sapphire crystal and a pretty good bracelet with a nice clasp system. The dial also has a nice depth to it. It's also running very accurate, even though it is a not a chronometer it keeps within COSC without issue (about -0.5s/day at the moment, very impressed with this).
Anyway, I'm very happy with the watch and I'm looking for my next/second or third automatic watch, this time an (entry level) luxury watch.
- budget between 2 to 4.000€
- luxury brand with some heritage (yet, preferable not a top of mind brand for the general public)
- automatic movement, don't care about COSC certification but should keep time +/- 4s/d
- water resistant minimum 100m (real) (suitable for showering, swimming, snorkling, rafting, anything in water except proper diving)
- great lume (I wear my watch while sleeping)
- simple, elegant, timeless, dial shouldn't be too busy, less is more, neutral colors (black, grey, ) but a small color accent is ok
- high quality build material, high quality sapphire crystal
- date or daydate would be nice, but not a requirement
- fit under a dress shirt, work well with a dress shirt for work, jeans+jacket or even a suit (occasionally); minimum dial size 36mm, preferable around 40mm.
- bracelent undecided, I always like a decent stainless bracelet but leather is also acceptable
- I love small details, like a clasp with a logo, roulette date dial, a nod to a historic model (from same brand), etc.
I've also always wanted a true diver, and have pretty much decided on a Tudor Pelagos (I prefer the design of the first generation (two lines, 3 o'clock marker, thinner), but would also love the in house movement). But a tool/diver like the pelagos is pretty big and not really that suitable for a suit or dress shirts. So I may purchase a more formal model first. I was looking at a Tudor Heritage Black Bay 41 (love the clasp that comes with the leather bracelet), but it seems silly to own two tudors when there are so many lovely watches/brands out there. Then I thought about a used Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date (ref 1500 or something) or a Explorer 1 (if there are any in my price range). Even though Rolex is an A-brand, most people only recognise a submariner, and I would only wear on a very formal occassions.
thanks for your suggestions,
kind regards, Michiel.