SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection
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    Member mechanik's Avatar
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    SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection

    I want to have a good solid collection, for me quality is more important than quantity, so even if I'd have only two pieces in my collection that I'd be happy to wear I'm ok with it. As I've been collecting my current timepieces for about two years now I have no rush to be ownining a Lange, Patek or F.P Journe at the moment. I'm 27 and who knows what life will bring, so maybe one day... But at the moment I'm more focused on things which have a good design, movement and history in my taste. Here is my current collection so you can have an idea about what I'm into:

    iwc pilot chronograph 3706, omega speedmaster fois, junghans max bill automatic and jaeger lecoultre geophysic. I think these bring a modest and minimalist but interesting technical designs... Also I have to mention that my range usually goes from 37mm to 40mm, I want to wear something that looks proportional on my wrist and nothing wih too 'in your face' kinda design.

    Hope to hear your ideas :)
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    Re: SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection

    Quote Originally Posted by mechanik View Post
    I want to have a good solid collection, for me quality is more important than quantity, so even if I'd have only two pieces in my collection that I'd be happy to wear I'm ok with it. As I've been collecting my current timepieces for about two years now I have no rush to be ownining a Lange, Patek or F.P Journe at the moment. I'm 27 and who knows what life will bring, so maybe one day... But at the moment I'm more focused on things which have a good design, movement and history in my taste. Here is my current collection so you can have an idea about what I'm into:

    iwc pilot chronograph 3706, omega speedmaster fois, junghans max bill automatic and jaeger lecoultre geophysic. I think these bring a modest and minimalist but interesting technical designs... Also I have to mention that my range usually goes from 37mm to 40mm, I want to wear something that looks proportional on my wrist and nothing wih too 'in your face' kinda design.

    Hope to hear your ideas :)
    A new watch every six months...what, may I ask, is your idea of "rushing" to build a collection? LOL To give you an idea of the perspective from which I ask that question, I have a little over 50 watches and have been collecting for 35 years. With one exception, it's only in the past ~15 years that I was even willing to spend large sums -- ~$10K+ in inflation adjusted 2015 dollars -- on a single watch.

    Red:
    You already have a good solid collection.

    Other:
    I don't understand what it is you want to know. Your title says "suggestions on the rotation" of your collection. Do you really want input on when or how often to wear the watches you have?

    All the best.
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  3. #3
    Member mechanik's Avatar
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    Re: SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection

    Thanks for your answer Tony. Haha I didn't want to give the mpression that I want to have a new watch every six moths or that I want to have a huge collection, I think 6 pieces would be good for me, actually I might be saying it wrong, not a collection but a good, modest range of waches that I would be happy to own sounds better. I can wait for twenty years and have a new watch, that's what I meant with no rush :)

    So what I want to know what would you guys add to this small collection, I'm asking this to discover a new watch that maybe someone would suggest which I've never heard of.

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    Member estrickland's Avatar
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    Re: SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection

    I like your taste, Mech.

    Interestingly - most of your collection is vintage inspired and half are vintage homages.

    I'd suggest you look at the vintage market. There, >40mm is anomalous.
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    Re: SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection

    Quote Originally Posted by mechanik View Post
    Thanks for your answer Tony. Haha

    I didn't want to give the impression that I want to have a new watch every six moths or that I want to have a huge collection, I think 6 pieces would be good for me, actually I might be saying it wrong, not a collection but a good, modest range of waches that I would be happy to own sounds better. I can wait for twenty years and have a new watch, that's what I meant with no rush :)

    So what I want to know what would you guys add to this small collection, I'm asking this to discover a new watch that maybe someone would suggest which I've never heard of.
    Some people collect stamps, while I collect letters. My favorite ones are the rare ones, like Q and X.
    ― Jarod Kintz, The Days of Yay are Here! Wake Me Up When They're Over.


    You're welcome.

    I think your collection needs several things (numbered only for ease of referring to them later, not for any other reason) that are on par with your JLC and IWC in terms of technical merit and overall execution (aesthetic details):
    1. A watch with corners
    2. A vintage watch
    3. A "proper" dress watch
    4. A dive watch/dressy sport watch
    5. A watch having something artful on its face or somewhere/somehow significant besides the movement itself. You can get this by going full on whimsical and getting a highly colorful watch, a novelty/motif watch, or you can stay "buttoned down" and just go with traditional finishing or case shapes other than squares and circles.
    6. Bracelets
    7. Reliable lume (you don't have to have this, but it sure is nice to have when one goes to theaters, bars/clubs, night walks/swims, etc. or just wakes in the middle of the night and instinctively glances at one's watch as one wonders why one woke at such an odd hour)
    8. One noteworthy complication -- chronograph (one a bit more sophisticated than the one inside the Speedy, but make no mistake, I love the Speedy and think it's a great watch for any collection...see this to get the gist of what I mean -- watch around: l'horlogerie suisse authentique: Consecrating the chronograph -- but know that specifically getting a PP isn't what I mean), moonphase, perpetual calendar, etc...just about anything so long as it isn't a power reserve indicator (not a temporal complication at all and it's not complex; it's a watch-status feature just as a gas gauge is a feature of a car) or date.

    I think you can "tick the box" on a few of those things at once. For example a vintage Rolex Sub, Breguet 1646 or Blancpain Fifty Fathoms diver would cover items two and four, and a relatively recent AP Edward Piguet can address the rest.

    One thing I suggest re: #8 is that you pick a watch style and maker and then find the complicated examples of it rather than specifying a complication and then looking at/for companies' watches that have it. The exception to that is a moonphase (or other astronomical) complication. For astronomic complications, I strongly suggest looking at what makers do outstandingly good jobs implementing it and then choosing among them.

    Breguet 1646



    I would add one fine vintage watch and one "proper" dress watch that's on par with the IWC and JLC. I might try to "kill three birds with one stone" and go with a vintage Cartier Tank or a vintage dress-flexible Cartier, say perhaps a Santos/Santos Dumont. I suggested a Cartier because they aren't hard to find, but there are plenty of other makes that are equally good alternatives. I'd cover the remaining elements with a Royal Oak Diver or a vintage Longines Conquest. I might "get over" the idea of having a strict diver's watch (internal or external rotating bezel) as it's thought of today, and go with a Breguet Marine instead so as to have a dressy sport watch on a bracelet, which, as a "dress-flexible" piece, will be more sartorially versatile than a strict diver, which is always casual and sporty. (The Legend Conquest is one exception; the Rolex Sub is not.)

    I'm sure you know what the classic Cartier Tank looks like, so I'm picturing a variation that is less well known, but still vintage.

    Cartier Tank Basculante -- What is it? It's Cartier's answer to the JLC Reverso. Shown first on a denim strap, but put whatever strap you like on it. Go with denim or grosgrain (non-NATO style would be my preference) to dress it down or mount it on a skin strap to dress it up or introduce a bit more color, perhaps a blue one to match the cabochon. (If you aren't familiar with this Cartier: https://forums.watchuseek.com/f67/car...te-413432.html )








    A slight variation might be to go with a Tank MC chronograph and hang on to it long enough that it becomes vintage with you, it's original owner. The example pictured below is SS and "ticks" the artful box, not with "flip over" construction, a blue cabochon, and case back decoration, but rather with it's textured guilloche (flinque ?) dial.


    (http://cartier.watchprosite.com/show...c-chronograph/)

    The watch above ticks so many of the "needs" I listed that you can pretty well get any dive watch you want and you'll have them all covered, except perhaps the lume. I'd probably just buy a Ball or Deep Blue T100 Flat Tube diver with tritium lume and be done. Barring that, I'd go with whatever diver I like most. A Sub is an excellent and obvious choice, and in all likelihood what I'd say is the best choice given the non-esoteric nature of most of your current pieces. What Sub model would I get?
    • I might wait for Rolex to offer it with their new movement and get the black bezel one in steel.
    • I might decide that I want a splash of color in my collection and go with either the blue current one or a vintage blue, steel, Asian-market, vintage Smurf (very hard to find and only slightly less pricey (if at all -- the one I tried to get sold for just under $30K (IIRC -- it's been a while and I didn't win the bidding) and that was a few years back) than the current blue Sub, although, if it's any consolation, it's finished losing value, whereas the current blue one will, once you buy it, lose value before it gains any). The Kermit and Hulk green ones are excellent alternatives too. (Another way to splash in color is to buy a colored dial from Rolex and have your "watch guy" install it.)



      Ball Dive watch



      I happen to be a BMW junkie of sorts, so this one works for me.




    If you are inclined to buy (relatively) modern pieces only, I suggest you avail yourself of the fact that a great many very fine watches -- some being as fine as one can get -- loose significant portions of their original MSRP. Along that line of thinking, I'd suggest an AP Edward Piguet (complicated or not) or a Piaget Emperador and a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Batchscaphe (chrono or not, depending on what you did re: a watch with corners). There are but a couple of the many different Edward Piguet models AP offered. What they all have in common is corners. Even a tonneau watch, plain face or not would be a good pick, for it's shape alone is artful.







    Of course, if you just don't like "corners" on watches, you can certainly go with a vintage round watch, a Jules Audemar, Piaget, Rolex Cellini, VC, or a great many others and still have a very lovely "proper" dress watch that is also relatively modern, but slightly older and soon to become "vintage." Most dress watches from the makers I cited in this paragraph will have some sort of artful detailing on the dail.







    So that's what I think. I don't think you need to follow my suggestions per se, but hopefully what I've said will give you some help in figuring out how to figure out for yourself what you "need" and want and what you don't.

    All the best.

    P.S.
    Gallet's Truman Flight Officer (current version) is very much a highly refined chronograph and it's got a GMT complication as well, to say nothing of a pedigree that dates to the late 1400s. It's also a bargain at ~$8500.


    A goal without a plan is just a wish.
    ― Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
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    Re: SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection

    Tony, thank you for taking your time helping and enlightening me with your detailed answer. I really enjoyed reading it as you wrote things that are new to me. I need to do some research on the things that you mentioned, I somehow don't like wearing watches with bracelets but I totally agree with your all other referrings. Complications excite me, especially a perpetual calendar or a minute repeater, for the proper dressy watch I would be interested in F.P Journe and Blancpain's which you mentioned, a watch with corners... royal oak is a solid piece I assume and about the watch having something artful on it I'm thinking about "qlocktwo w", even tough it's not mechanical it might contribute to the collection with its interesting design (could a Hublot contribute to this category?) and finally for the vintage watch the Breguet that you posted really attracts my eye, the other option might be the iwc mark xii. Also somehow I'm not very interested in modern Rolex's; Omega's and Tudor's diver watches (especially vintage ones) catch my attention. I've been reading Hodinkee lately, those Universal watches which he posts seem interesting but I assume that it's hard to find good condition ones.

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    Re: SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection

    Quote Originally Posted by mechanik View Post
    Tony, thank you for taking your time helping and enlightening me with your detailed answer. I really enjoyed reading it as you wrote things that are new to me. I need to do some research on the things that you mentioned, I somehow don't like wearing watches with bracelets but I totally agree with your all other referrings.

    Complications excite me, especially a perpetual calendar or a minute repeater, for the proper dressy watch I would be interested in F.P Journe and Blancpain's which you mentioned, a watch with corners... royal oak is a solid piece I assume and about the watch having something artful on it I'm thinking about "qlocktwo w", even tough it's not mechanical it might contribute to the collection with its interesting design (could a Hublot contribute to this category?) and finally for the vintage watch the Breguet that you posted really attracts my eye, the other option might be the iwc mark xii. Also somehow I'm not very interested in modern Rolex's; Omega's and Tudor's diver watches (especially vintage ones) catch my attention. I've been reading Hodinkee lately, those Universal watches which he posts seem interesting but I assume that it's hard to find good condition ones.
    Blue:
    A Royal Oak is a solid piece, but really what I meant by corners was a tank or tonneau shaped watch as opposed to a typical watch with an octagonal bezel, but an RO, albeit a conventional choice, does have corners, and in most cases, one can't exactly be faulted for choosing it. LOL


    Green:
    Yes, the "2W" provides some artful/whimsical flair to your collection, although I can't pretend I think that the "2W" is better (or even as interesting) as a watch than it is as a clock. As a clock, I see it as an interesting conversation piece so long as it's put in a location where sparking novel chit chat is appropriate, say in a game room along with the pool table, darts, bar, jukebox, table tennis, Twister, assorted board games, card table, pinball machine, and Pac Man console.

    On one's wrist, I think it really only has wearability interest in the situations that correspond to when one might be in that game room, or similar public venue, but not someplace where one consumes alcohol...I think it would get even harder to actually use after enough drinks, whereas a two or three handed watch has "glance at it" effectiveness at all but the most impaired states of being, to say nothing of in a meeting. (Think....standing at the front of a room making/leading a presentation, one extends one's arm to point at an image projected on a screen. With a traditional, "handed" watch, a glance tells one all one needs to know. With the 2W, one better read fast and have good vision, or long enough arms if one is in that life-stage where vision begins to worsen. LOL

    Even so, it and, depending on the model an Hulblot, is potentially consistent with the general thrust of where I was going with the specific watch suggestions I made above: that you try to use your next two watches as ways to incorporate things that are (1) fine and outstanding watches in their own right (as are, for example, your IWC and JLC), and (2) that are also nothing someone would expect and that yet don't challenge one's sensibilities/push one's limits quite to the extent that might, say, a DeWitt would. It was for those two reasons I didn't suggest a Nautilus or RO.

    Yes, some Hublots can "tick" the artful box. (Note: I just grabbed pics really quickly for this post. The colors/metals shown are not the only ones for the respective models.)






    The ones above are from the Fusion line. The ones below are Big Bang models.







    Red:
    You already have an IWC Mark Collection watch. I don't see the point of getting a vintage one; if you want to swap your current Mark for a vintage IWC Flieger, that makes some sense to me. Otherwise, I wouldn't suggest a vintage IWC Mark for you. Here's why....

    As go my list of eight things I think your collection needs, a vintage Mark will only "tick one more box," the vintage box, once it's added to your existing four watches. That's not all that efficient a use of your money if you really think six is your "right" number as goes collection size, and buying that will make it all but impossible to cover the remaining "bases" with just one more watch.

    All the best.
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    Re: SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection

    Quote Originally Posted by tony20009 View Post

    Yes, some Hublots can "tick" the artful box. (Note: I just grabbed pics really quickly for this post. The colors/metals shown are not the only ones for the respective models.)




    All the best.
    I see so many new (to me) watches off of your posts tony. Love the look of this one!!!
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    Re: SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection

    OP, if you are keen on the idea of getting a really fine vintage watch that hits a couple of the bases, check out the ones on offer here: Vintage Watches For Sale - Buy Vintage Breitling, Longines, Heuer, Longines Watch .

    Earlier I mentioned a Cartier Tank as being an excellent way to go down the vintage road. There's a Cartier Super Tank (ca. 1940) that is sized (36mm) in line with today's trend for large watches. (Rectangular watches "wear" larger than circular ones having a diameter equal to a rectangle's length.) It's in superb condition and comes with the original deployment clasp. It's a real gem of a vintage piece as are all the others on that page.





    Another awesome vintage watch with corners, though not a dress watch is the Heuer Monaco 1533b.





    No corners, but yet another awesome piece, Longines Conquest (ca. 1960). There's a unique dress watch IMO.



    And look at how it comes...original leather box and original Longines papers!









    That watch is offered at ~$5500. It's 18Kt rose gold and an automatic. I don't know about you, but that is what I think a Longines watch should look like, elegant, artful, stylish and anything but boring, which is what I think of the vast majority of what Longines offer these days.

    All the best.
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  11. #10
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    Re: SUGGESTIONS on the ratation of my collection

    Thank you for all of your suggestions Tony. Those last Heuer and the Longine that you posted look really good. I should be checking the vintage market more often as you mentioned, anyways I keep finding myself complaining about this fashion trend of fine watchmaking, we naturally have most of the watch boutiques here in Zürich and what I can't understand is why the watch companies except a few ones are trying to get away from being a fine watchmaker and moving into being a jewelry brand, ridiculously bigger and bigger, shinier and shinier, now almost all the watches started looking like "in your face", I'm not even talking about iwc which I used to like a lot. I think that's why I posted this thread, it's getting harder for me to find solid timepieces in these days.
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